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89 Posts
Yup i have the irritating Noise! I had GM replace my intermediate shaft underwarranty awhile ago but now I think the lower bearing is rattling. Where is a good place to purchase one? Is there an upgrade?:help
Lower Steering Colum Bearing Noise
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24,781 Posts
I dont think the bearing actually goes "bad" it just starts making noise. I have seen a few people find the squeek and use some wd-40 to re lube the bearing. Works every time :rockin
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526 Posts
Ive even seen some drill and tap a grease zirk in the shaft and grease the hell out of it.
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6,033 Posts
The noise is not from the bearing being worn out, but the fitment of the bearing inside the steel tube. There is an upgrade one that is green in color, and address's the issue.
What I did was just put a 2.5" hose clamp on it, to take the play out of the bearing. It also stopped the noise. Here is a pic, to give you a idea:drink
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What I did was just put a 2.5" hose clamp on it, to take the play out of the bearing. It also stopped the noise. Here is a pic, to give you a idea:drink
Joined
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89 Posts
Mijdirty jeep, was the clamp enough to squeeze the tube around the bearing, or did u have to put slots inthe tube or anything like that? Also where can the upgraded bearing be purchased, only at a dealer or is there a vendor who has them?
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6,033 Posts
I did not put slots in the tube, the clamp kinda hits both "bearing and tube" and that is how it holds it together. For a little better hold I have been told some use a muffler clamp. I will try and find the part number for the bearing:drink
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6,033 Posts
Here is the GM part # for the bearing 88963617. I am almost sure the new one is an updated "green" bearing.
It is not an expensive part, but the hose clamp did the trick for mine:drink
It is not an expensive part, but the hose clamp did the trick for mine:drink
bearing does go bad occasionally.... mine did and required 3 shafts in 2 months to get them to replace the bearing, and by making noise it is bad....
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89 Posts
update
I replaced the lower bearing w/ the green upgrade and it did help a little. I still have a little rattle in the steering colum. Also it feels like there is play near the steering wheel, anyone know if the top bearing can be replaced?
I replaced the lower bearing w/ the green upgrade and it did help a little. I still have a little rattle in the steering colum. Also it feels like there is play near the steering wheel, anyone know if the top bearing can be replaced?
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2 Posts
green bearing
My truck came with the green bearing installed from the factory. It is an 07 classic and it too had the annoying rattle. I had the intermediate shaft replaced but the rattle remained. Today I tried the clamp trick and it worked! Just because its green doesn't mean its fixed. If there is still play between the bearing and steel tube, try the clamp method because I think that tube starts to wallow out and the clamp fixes this.
My truck came with the green bearing installed from the factory. It is an 07 classic and it too had the annoying rattle. I had the intermediate shaft replaced but the rattle remained. Today I tried the clamp trick and it worked! Just because its green doesn't mean its fixed. If there is still play between the bearing and steel tube, try the clamp method because I think that tube starts to wallow out and the clamp fixes this.
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2 Posts
Just replaced the bearing on a 2005 GMC 2500hd with the updated green bearing. I noticed that the green bearing had ribs on the inside of the bearing that would hold tight to the shaft. The old white bearing didn't have these ribs. They could have wore off or maybe they didn't have them initially. Any way, this new bearing seemed to fix the "clunking". I went ahead and put on a hose clamp also just in case.
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3 Posts
steering column bearing
I just purchased a new to me, 2004 lly motor. Have the rattling in the steering column. bought the new green bearing, but not sure how to remove the old one. do you push in on the white tab to release or how?
I just purchased a new to me, 2004 lly motor. Have the rattling in the steering column. bought the new green bearing, but not sure how to remove the old one. do you push in on the white tab to release or how?
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2 Posts
When I did mine I just tried to squeeze in on the tabs and pull at the same time. It is kind of hard with only one hand but it will come loose.
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331 Posts
I just recently I solved my oh so irritating steering wheel rattle by doing three thing.
I Put two sheet metals screws through the metal tube into the plastic bearing. The same place some are putting the hose clamp.
Replaced the front shocks. The shock bushing were worn slap out. 291,000 miles it was time.
Replaced the front end jounce bumpers. They were all gone nothing left of them after 291,000 miles.
Talk about a new truck........ I have absolutley no rattles.......... Night and day difference.
Andy
I Put two sheet metals screws through the metal tube into the plastic bearing. The same place some are putting the hose clamp.
Replaced the front shocks. The shock bushing were worn slap out. 291,000 miles it was time.
Replaced the front end jounce bumpers. They were all gone nothing left of them after 291,000 miles.
Talk about a new truck........ I have absolutley no rattles.......... Night and day difference.
Andy
G
Guest
·2006 Silverado Steering column noise
The problem of the noise is developed because the spline connection is very hard to slide, made of polymer not metal. The spline should slide free to take up changes in distance from the steering box to the steering wheel...Those two points move relatively to each other when vehicle stretches and flexes riding along more so that one is fixed to the cab and the other to the chassis with cabin mounts allowing it even more...This results it hammering and pulling on the lower plastic bearing mounted on the steering wheel column...This bearing finally gets bumped out of tight fit and starts to squeal and then knock as it is pushed and pulled by the sized spline connection...
The problem of the noise is developed because the spline connection is very hard to slide, made of polymer not metal. The spline should slide free to take up changes in distance from the steering box to the steering wheel...Those two points move relatively to each other when vehicle stretches and flexes riding along more so that one is fixed to the cab and the other to the chassis with cabin mounts allowing it even more...This results it hammering and pulling on the lower plastic bearing mounted on the steering wheel column...This bearing finally gets bumped out of tight fit and starts to squeal and then knock as it is pushed and pulled by the sized spline connection...
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