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The bleeder thread size is in the two links I posted above. If you're referring to the bleed screw thread on the filter head under hood it is M10x1.5, if you are wanting to put a bleed valve in the Wix head back by the lift pump they are 1/2" NPT.
My fuel lines running along the frame near the transmission appear to be in good condition and are original. With the lift pump installed I haven't found the need to change them out yet.
 

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2007 Silverado 3500 Classic w/ Allison
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Thanks for the help Reno! I think the hose barb for the stock fuel bleeder on the housing is a great idea to be able to prime the system with a hose to a bottle vs squirting fuel everywhere.
I attached some photos of my bracket setup so far. I am planning to put ball valves on inlet side of filter (need to remove the barb currently on filter housing) and outlet side of pump.
Two quick questions:
1. Do you use this o ring on bottom side of filter shown in my photos? My transfer tank pump doesn't have this oring but it came with my Baldwin water separator filter.

2. Due to the amount of rust on my hard lines along the frame, I am contemplating running about 5' of hose from the outlet of my pump ball valve this fitting near the transmission. I would secure it by zip ties to the existing line or line mounts. Do you see any issue with that? Seems like it wouldn't be much longer than a long loop back around to the hard line location near the return fuel cooler.
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It's been a while and I really don't recall what I did with that o-ring but I believe you are correct in your application. Replacing your fuel line with a flexible line should work as you describe but I would inspect it regularly to make sure there aren't any abrasions that could rub through. If the lines are rusted as you say I would consider replacing them with new hardlines as I'm sure there could be other areas where the lines are weak and could cause future problems.
Looks like you are mounting the pump & filter upside down on the bracket unless you have a different mounting location in mind. In my case the bracket sits on top of the frame, the side with the 3 holes points down on the outside frame rail and a bolt goes through the center hole to attach. The side with the slotted holes points up and is located toward and above the inside frame rail. This keeps the filters almost out of sight and up high away from potential damage from road debris etc.
 

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Duh, thanks Reno. Got it right now and added my stainless steel water/oil/gas rates ball valves with a full 1/2" opening. Should be installing tomorrow along with my new return cooler and new filter head for the stock location. I'm going to wait on installing the sump for now. I might decide to install it later down the road.
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Nice to see shutoff valves on BOTH sides. And it's good to see that you put the filter BEFORE the pump. Makes the pump live a long time.
 

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Looking good. You might want to do a trial fit to make sure the handle on the right valve coming off the pump doesn't hit the bottom of the truck bed. You could flatten the handle to make more room if needed. Also check the swing of the handles when closing, looks like the valve on the left swings up. From what I've read about using a sump it sounds like the guys really building their motors need to do that for maximum fuel flow. If you're running mostly stock you may not need it. The only real challenge you have coming up is removing the fuel line on top of the tank, don't worry... it can be done.(y)
 

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Also, trial fit your fuel filter, the first time I did mine the outside cannister hit the pump because I used 'close' nipples. Yours looks ok on the pump side but the cannister may hit the shut-off valve. Better to check now before it's all installed and you are ready to install the filter.😱
 

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Thanks for all of the help! I got it together, bled and running properly. While I was doing the wiring I also completely tore down and cleaned the fuse box after finding mice scat and a few chewed wires I had to repair.
All is well with the valves, I had to bend one a bit but it's fine. I replaced the clogged return fuel line cooler. I replaced stock filter head on the engine and put in a new racor filter.
I was unable to remove the supply line at the tank. As i started to pull on it I noticed the fitting coming out of the fuel sender on top of tank was so rusted it was easily bending and moving so I stopped. I ended up cutting the supply line a couple inches from the pickup and inserted a double barb fitting with some hose clamps. Seems to be working fine but I may install the sump in a few weeks. My fuel tank was just too full today.
I also ran rubber hose all the way up to where it ties in at the transmission. The Kennedy kit came with enough hose to make it.
The oil pressure sender plug came out ok. Wiring was all good. We'll see how it does this week towing.
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I think the best thing that came from this topic was the m10x1 to hose barb fitting to use at the fuel filter housing while bleeding. It was nice to book a hose up and then to a bottle to catch most of the fuel while priming and I used a clear hose and was able to prime until no bubbles came out.
 

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Good job, one more you can check off the to-do list! I grew up in Michigan but had forgotten about the rust situation and the problems it can cause. Just keep checking for leaks every now and then and you should be good to go. I never noticed any difference after installing my lift pump but the peace of mind was worth the price.
 
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