Almost there!
Not so simple a task eh?

 

Not simple Don. And definitely not something I'd recommend to someone needing the vehicle for their job, or to someone who has a job. It takes too much time and money. I think however it is incredibly satisfying and rewarding for me to think what I've achieved in 4 days.

Without your and Ashley's detailed threads, I would NEVER have had the confidence to jump in and go for it. This is definitely the the most complicated automotive thing I have ever done and I have learned so much doing this, I feel like I could tackle almost anything. I remember when I had my Cummins in '07, I always farmed that truck out to a shop for the work I had done. After this experience, never again.

 

Well, while your courage is peaking, how's about tackling a set of 4.56 gears and a Grizzly locker? Talk about a difference!
You will want either 4.10. 4.33 if they are made or 4.56 gears of a super high quality material to keep that sucker hummin with the taller tires. Nice having 950+ ft lbs and 4.56 gears! It will get you aquainted with the traction control light every time you press the go pedal!

 

Alrighty! When I got home last night there was a UPS package waiting for me from Alligator - the replacement Intercooler pipe, that was the main task this morning. I have to say of all the parts I have purchased from all the vendors, they have all been really super high quality.
My only complaint would be the clamp studs on the Intercooler pipe. If they could all have been 1/4" longer it would have made this process a lot easier. Otherwise a premium product!

While I was at it I took care of the DEF plug...

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Alrighty! When I got home last night there was a UPS package waiting for me from Alligator - the replacement Intercooler pipe, that was the main task this morning. I have to say of all the parts I have purchased from all the vendors, they have all been really super high quality.
My only complaint would be the clamp studs on the Intercooler pipe. If they could all have been 1/4" longer it would have made this process a lot easier. Otherwise a premium product!

While I was at it I took care of the DEF plug...

View attachment 61708


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I meant to tell Holton about those clamps...they will not fit. I had to buy all new ones from summit and Race parts solutions. THey are about 1/2" longer so you can actually start them.
Also, make sure you squeeze the IC pipe forward as far as you can or it will vibrate on your brake hydro boost system.

 

Awesome truck did you happen to get any more pictures of the egr delete and 9th injector delete?

Also what parts had to be purchased outside of alligators kit?

 

I'd hold that thought till i've finalized this one issue...

I'll get some pictures of the EGR delete tomorrow.
Are you asking about the EGR delete plate itself or other stuff that goes with the EGR delete procedure? What I mean is, there is not a whole lot of parts, just the work that is daunting. The kit is really 4 or 5 parts in a small box one of which is the plate itself. then there are a couple of replacement coolant tubes and the replacement Up pipe which you'll need.

 

I've come up with one more issue that is causing me some angst.

Its this device.

Initially, I just cut the 9th injector line before the actual injector itself on its cradle on top of the passenger side valve cover. I crimped the line, and then we started having this online discussion a couple of pages back. Eventually I ended up with this device in my trash bin, and the two return/relief fuel lines that connected to this black thing in the foreground I joined with a section of the original 9th injector metal line clamped to each rubber hose. On starting and testing the vehicle which included a couple of WOT runs, no issue at all. Everything seemed great.

Then i took I drive down to a job site and about 8 miles down the freeway at a steady 75, the truck suddenly went limp with a really noticeable "injector knock" sound. After popping the hood I found that one of the rubber hoses came off the metal injector tube I had clamped it onto, and diesel was pissing onto the vee of the motor. I turned around and limped back to the shop at idle speed and shut it down.

So... here we are looking at the photo above.
My 1st thought is to reinstall everything that you see there, and replace the hoses as they were from the factory, and just crimp off the metal lines and leave it at that.

Opinions?

 

I've come up with one more issue that is causing me some angst.

Its this device.

Initially, I just cut the 9th injector line before the actual injector itself on its cradle on top of the passenger side valve cover. I crimped the line, and then we started having this online discussion a couple of pages back. Eventually I ended up with this device in my trash bin, and the two return/relief fuel lines that connected to this black thing in the foreground I joined with a section of the original 9th injector metal line clamped to each rubber hose. On starting and testing the vehicle which included a couple of WOT runs, no issue at all. Everything seemed great.

Then i took I drive down to a job site and about 8 miles down the freeway at a steady 75, the truck suddenly went limp with a really noticeable "injector knock" sound. After popping the hood I found that one of the rubber hoses came off the metal injector tube I had clamped it onto, and diesel was pissing onto the vee of the motor. I turned around and limped back to the shop at idle speed and shut it down.

So... here we are looking at the photo above.
My 1st thought is to reinstall everything that you see there, and replace the hoses as they were from the factory, and just crimp off the metal lines and leave it at that.

Opinions?

I've been doing some research and it turns out the rubber hoses running through that silver cylindrical device (some type of check valve for the exhaust injection feature) run back to the injection pressure sensor module. This module experiences between 60 and 150psi and when it was not receiving its back flow on my motor sent the system into "tilt" mode. I'm still trying to find more info and will post as I learn...

 

I hear you this is an awesome thread and once complete will solve everyone a lot of head aches

 

Here's the interesting issue with that, if the system is disconnected at the IP there is no pressure going into it other than the fuel coming off the returns, there is a vacuum switch in line upstream from the fuel inlet port to the IP. Other than that it is straight through from the rails to the tank. I could not find the article you were referring to so am I missing something here??? always good to have to heads looking at this, I have not experienced this, something changed between 11 and 12????

 

"On the fuel system return side, the return lines are now equipped with snap-in connections. The return side is under pressure. A pressure retention valve maintains 0.4 to 1.1 mPa of pressure within the return lines to provide
proper fuel injector operation. Improper injector return line pressure may cause a no-start or performance concern. If the engine runs out of fuel, or if the fuel system is serviced, the system must be primed. After priming, a feed line from the low pressure side of the pump backfills the injector return lines. The feed line will also backfill if pressure falls below 0.3 mPa in the injector return lines."

Ok I see how how this condition came into play for you. What happened when that line came apart was you lost the required mPa to satisfy the system which caused the injectors not to fire open properly.

The return line is supplied from the low pressure side of the ip, being that the 9th injector was plugged off like mine at the ip that would rule out that source of back pressure required. Hence having a barbed 90 with two clamps. 60 to 160 psi on a smooth line could result on what you had happen. I got my barbed fittings at grainger.

Hope that helps you out.


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This is why having more than one head looking at this and thinking these things through all the way to the end is so important. These forums are so darned important man!
I like that there are companies making aftermarket parts for these vehicles, but in the back of my mind I kept thinking that somewhere someone may have left something out. At least somewhere in this we'll be able to have a really comprehensive set of instructions so that guys (and shops for that matter) can do the job without any comeback and compete understanding of what they're doing.

Awesome!

 

So in simple terms what is the solution?

Got a picture and part list?

 

So in simple terms what is the solution?

Got a picture and parts list??

Go to post # 38 in this thread and look at the 2nd photo. That's basically the device in its original state, which is what I have returned it to. You'll see the silver 9th injector lines at the bottom of the cylindrical check valve coming in on either side - well I have snipped them off about a couple inches away on either side and folded them over and clamped them shut. Can't take a photo without removing my whole throttle body for the 4th time in a day and a half. I needed to put it back together to test it and run it. Sorry...
The black hoses on the top side of the silver cylinder connect to it with a quick connector. They also connect to each other and return back to the pressure sensor which sits just above and behind the alternator. They need to be reconnected as well, as we discovered earlier this morning.
So I think the wise thing to do is probably keep this whole device and sever the downstream portion of the injector line and remove the external injector and cradle itself. The upstream section could probably be cut and clamped as well. Maybe others have differing opinions and would like to comment.


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I will try work on it today and Saturday. In short I re-used the black connector and silver cylinder and put the rubber return hoses back where they originally were. It seems to run perfectly smooth right now. Just did a 30 mile run in traffic and down I-275, and all seems good.

I saw you asked about additional hardware or bolts that need to be bought... Pretty much the 3.5" hose clamps for the Intercooler pipe to replace the ADP ones are a must and that's about it. There are not real hidden costs here. In fact, I have a half gallon jug of bolts and nuts that I have left over from all the discarded parts. There must be over 300lbs of discarded parts in this whole operation not counting the 3 gallons of DEF!


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This is great information, and very insightful..... Thanks for doing this, as I will be taking on this same operation in the near future when all parts arrive.

 

Just saw this thread. Sorry but things have been really busy here. If anyone ever needs my help just email, pm, or call me.

There are leaders and there are followers. I want to thank you guys for being the leaders. You are making it a whole lot easier for those that will follow! Keep up the good work and the cool threads!!!

 

It still takes someone with vision and talent to (A) Design; then (B) Build, ground-breaking components that nobody else has done so that we can play with our toyz. And YOU are that guy.

 

I've been following this thread and can we get a picture of what you have come to on the fuel lines?I see you put a bolt on the cp4 but not sure about the other little fuel lines!


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Which feul lines are you referring too?


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Well if I remember right a guy can't discard that 9th injector completely cause there are some small rubber fuel lines goin to part of that system right?


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View attachment 62923


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The fuel line on the right in this picture is completely GONE. Deleted. Along with the steel line on either end of it and the steel line on either end of the silver cylindrical device all the way back to the CP4 where I put a bolt in the original hole.

The fuel lines on the left (yes, there are 2) are intact, reconnected. And that cylindrical thing is installed in its original position. Just the steel injector line is snipped off one either side.

1,000 miles and running good so far.

 

Those are the two lines I'm talking about.


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That's what I thought you were talking about, the theory the op stated was there was a check valve in there keeping back pressure on the return line.
I utilized a 90* barbed fitting, and have no issues. The Return lines have pressure in order to help fire off the 30k psi piezo injectors. From reading what happened I believe when his connection blew off he lost the required pressure needed and or called for by the system, giving him a rough idle no start condition, hence my utilization of a barbed fitting with clamps. Hope that helps explain it. A page back or two explains the return line.


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For more clarity...

Refer to the photo below...

1. The two Rubber hose lines indicated in yellow remain intact connected to the metal relief valve/device (indicated by the blue arrow) with the black plastic quick-connect. Or they can be connected to each other with a 3/16" 90* barbed fitting you can by from Grainger with clamps on both hoses.

2. The two ends of the 9th injector fuel line I snipped off and discarded (shown in red)

 

Here's an update for those doing this.
There has been an irritating vibration or 'roughness' I've experienced ever sine doing this job, which at some stages has caused me regret for even doing it in the first place.

Slowly and methodically, I have begun to eliminate the guilty items as I found them - each one a definite contributor to the problem.

The worst one was the turbo Intercooler pipe which hopefully somebody talented will take the initiative and redesign (Rick Lance please read this).

Then came the down pipe and up pipe interface on the passenger side where last weekend I found the down pipe to be a hairs breadth away from the up pipe bellows. An hour of in bolting, shifting and re tightening took care of that and the vibes dropped another 20%

But, they were still there... Growling at me around 1,300 - 1,500 RPM on accererating and decelerating. After poking around again with a flashlight for a few minutes I found it today!

There is a metal coolant line rising up from the block below the turbo and it end in a collar/bracket combo that is secured to the EGR cooler to keep it steady and vibration free. Well... There is no more EGR! So I fabricated a makeshift bracket and installed it in the now vacant EGR bolt holes.

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There's the bracket installed - still not a lot of space between the heat shield and the pipe but enough to stop the vibrations. Also it makes me feel better that the pipe has the support it was designed to have.


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