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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so here is my situation: I have one upper control arm that is very rusted and the the other isn’t far behind. The bushings are NON existent! I have never done a front on before but I’m not afraid to dive in. This what I have purchased so far and I’m hoping I can get some advice on what else I need and hopefully some directions on what order to remove things, tools needed etc. I have 2 - ctxms 20360 mevotech ttx upper control arms complete ( they look very nice definitely heavier duty than what’s on there now) ; 2- ttx lower ball joints ; 2sets of Moog greasable alignment cam plate kit with nut and bolt ; energy suspension sway bar end link and bushing kit.
I am questioning which lower control arm bushing I should get from Moog there seems to be two different ones, the “problem solver line” or I guess the standard line. The part numbers seem to be W0133-2346879 for the problem solver ones ( that’s forward and rear bushing) and k6658 for the standard ones? Anyone familiar ?
If I’m doing this much should I replace steering components too? Pit man idler and tie rods? If so what brand I was thinking of going with Rare parts for tie rods but staying with moog for the rest I don’t have deep pockets right now. I don’t do any 4 wheel drive launches but I do like to get on the go peddle.
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Not sure of the parts you mentioned, but I have used the problem solver line from moog and its good stuff, how old are your wheel bearings? Since you have to remove them anyway it would be a good time to renew them, and if you have my luck, they have new speed sensors in them and you won't have to pull the brakes off again like I had to...
 

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I’m planning on tie rods from Rare Parts too. They look VERY stout. I have cash on hand ready for them, but am hoping for some kind of Black Friday deal in two weeks.
As far as special tools, you might look up what size socket you need for the axle nut. I think it’s pretty beefy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
35 mm I believe
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Where are you getting rare parts tie rods from ? Price? Is there much of a price difference between them and new inner and outer moog tie rods and sleeves?
 

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Get ready for a fight on those bushings. They are an absolute bitch. I ended up using a 3' piece of 1/2" (might have been 5/8") threaded rod with nuts and washers. Put the rod thru the hole in the first bushing and thread a medium size washer and nut on the inside end of the rod. In that order. Then a nut and a LARGE washer next - in order. Run the nuts up a ways and poke the rod thru the second bushing. Now run the nut and the large washer down against the inside of the control arm and run the other nut and washer into the inside of the other bushing. If you have the right size washers, the big one pushes against the control arm and the little one pushes on the inside of the opposite bushing and shoves it out. Work the nut and smaller washer up the rod and it will push that bushing out. Flip it around for the other bushing. I think I double-nutted the large washer end to keep it stationary.

You can get the new bushings in with the rod and nuts too. Easy enough to figure that part out. And if you do it right, the threaded rod serves as a guide so the bushings go in straight. Pretty sure it was 5/8" rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Come on guys, I know there are more of you that have rebuilt their front ends. What would be your advice both on parts and procedure. Anything you would do different next time? Any time savers?
I’m thinking moog inner and mevotech TTX outer tie rods with sleeves. I run 33” Toyo m/t’s no 4 wheel drive launches but I am leveled.
Is the Bilstein stabilizer worth it over other brands? I do have Bilstien 5100 shocks on front now,
I am planning on moog HD idler and pitman arms.
On a side note check this out; I just spoke to a rep from partsgeek.com concerning Moog lower control arm bushings, they list two different part numbers at two different prices and the description is also different calling the more expensive set “Moog premium problem solver” line and the less expensive just “Moog “ .we’ll here is the explanation I was given
Quote “ the only difference is they come from different warehouses. Each warehouse we get our parts from is free to set up their own prices as well as product descriptions” !!! So partsgeek is aware that on their site they are selling identical products with identical manufacturer part numbers which they then change the part number to two different part numbers with two different descriptions. I’ll never get anything from them again, that should be illegal!! Especially since moog does have different lines like the problem solver line and a lower standard line with of course different part numbers.
 

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I rebuilt the front end on my 2011 at about 160K. It is a work truck that hauls 5,000lbs in the bed most days. I went with mavotech control arms mostly for time saving during installation not having to deal with bushings and I used Moog problem solver everywhere else. Everything went together smoothly and up to 200K now with no issues. Other than the weight, this truck does not get beat on offroad other than a yearly fishing trip to Canada with about 100 miles of dirt washboard roads each way.
 
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