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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after a process of elimination (3 different cords) I have concluded that my element is broken on my truck. I was planning on replacing it and I was going to also change the antifreeze. So here are my questions. After I drain the radiator can I just take out the old element and that drain the block, or do I need to take off the block drain plugs (if so where are they located)? And my last question is how much antifreeze and how much distilled water do I need for this? Thanks guys appreciate any and all help


2003 GMC 2500hd lb7,raptor fuel pump, PPE boost valve, lbz fpr, 5inch exhaust to a 6inch tip, S&B air intake, and a crappy diablo power puck.
 

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That stinks about the heater. As far as proceedures go, I would drain the system from the petcock from the rad, add distilled, run it for a while, drain, and do it again. Do this untill what drains is clear. In the meanwhile, on the first drain, you can remove the element and reinstall the new one. As far as the block drains... to be honest... I've never done it to any of my vehicles. The very first time I actually followed the FSM to the T and drained the block was on my 93 Acura Vigor. A: it was a PITA to get to. B: So little came out, it didn't justify the effort. After that, I just did the method described above and I've never had a problem.

If the petcock method is too slow, I also just remove the lower rad hose and let the sucker flow. As far as capacity, the Dmax takes about 6 gallons. When I do this, I normally fill the sucker up with distilled till its running clean. When you do the last drain, I just add the coolant at 100%. When you drain, all of the water will not come out. About 40% stays in. So fill it with undiluted coolant. Then take the empty container and fill it half with distilled and coolant to get your mix. Add that. By this time, you should have enough in the system that you can test. If the mix is weak, add 100% coolant, if its strong, wait. Start the engine and let the coolant flow. Once the thermo has opened, check the system again. If the mix is right, add more of the 50/50. If it is off, either add water or 100% coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a ton GMduramax you helped a bunch man I really appreciate the help.


2003 GMC 2500hd lb7,raptor fuel pump, PPE boost valve, lbz fpr, 5inch exhaust to a 6inch tip, S&B air intake, and a crappy diablo power puck.
 

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Oh, I forgot to add, you will need to bleed the sucker down. SO when you get the system filled, crack the bleed screw before you add your coolant or water. This reduced the chances for an airlock. Once you get everything final done and you are ready to button it up... Start the motor with the res cap off and bleed screw closed. Watch for any air to come out. There should be some. Now you need to coax the thermo to open, so if you need to, rev the engine up to get it up to temp quicker to trigger the thermo to open. Once its all good, crack the bleed screw for good measure to check for a steady stream, once thats good. Button it up, crack a brew, and work on something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright thanks man


2003 GMC LB7, raptor fuel pump, s&b cold air intake, pro fab intake horn, diablo power puck, ccsb, and 5 inch exhaust without a muffler to a 6 inch tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ahh got it. Thanks.


2003 GMC LB7, raptor fuel pump, s&b cold air intake, pro fab intake horn, diablo power puck, ccsb, and 5 inch exhaust without a muffler to a 6 inch tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ImageUploadedByAG Free1418945258.593128.jpg out with the old in with the new


2003 GMC LB7, raptor fuel pump, s&b cold air intake, pro fab intake horn, diablo power puck, ccsb, and 5 inch exhaust without a muffler to a 6 inch tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How long should I let it run with just the distilled water in it?


2003 GMC LB7, raptor fuel pump, s&b cold air intake, pro fab intake horn, diablo power puck, ccsb, and 5 inch exhaust without a muffler to a 6 inch tip.
 

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You need to let it run until the thermo opens to let the water circulate to the back of the motor. So let it run up to temp, let the thermo open, then drain.



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