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So I managed to ding my driveshaft, just where one would go to get a new driveshaft other than the dealer. Any online places??

04 Duramax LLY Crew, Short Box.
 

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What do you mean ding? Like dented?
 

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But I would imagine you could just get your shaft re-balanced too, depends on how bad it is.
Thats what I was thinking, never been in that boat though
 

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I could be wrong, but i don't think Tom Woods does anything with Aluminum driveshafts. There stuff is mostly overpriced and the quality is not all they make it out to be either.
 

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Thanks for the advice ... My truck had a fight against a boulder.

I made a few calls, looks like no one wants to fix an aluminum DS.

Here's a couple of pics ...



 

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Thanks for the advice ... My truck had a fight against a boulder.

I made a few calls, looks like no one wants to fix an aluminum DS.

Here's a couple of pics ...




We fix aluminum driveshafts here locally, we are one of the very few shops in NYS that does.

The wrinkle with retubing this particular driveshaft is that the piece of tubing is $225( $246 for a longbox). A new one complete is around $425, so by the time you spend a couple of hours retubing and balancing it, if it needed new joints your over the cost of a new one.

Believe me, i got my nuts in a ringer the first time i sold a complete one instead of retubing it, i had to physically go into the price sheet and show pops the numbers.
 

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Im in the same boatbon mine.. got a nice ding but not near that size i think mine will be ok with just rebalancing but herebin okcbthere arent many places that sell driveshafts
 

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I have one off my truck with 120k miles on it. It has a couple small scratches. I can post pics after bit if you'd like.
 

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I have one off my truck with 120k miles on it. It has a couple small scratches. I can post pics after bit if you'd like.
Do it!:neener. Just looked at my u joints they are literally exploded. I dropped the driveshaft last night. Im going to take it to blumenthals to get rebalanced.
 

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Will do, I gotta pull it out if the rafters and stuff.
 

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Needs the yoke and u-joints. the ujoint on the yoke side is good but I wouldn't re-use it. I'll clean it up good after bit if you want it. I thought this was bad when I pulled it but my new one is scratched worse than this one now and there is no vibration so I wasted almost a grand. And if I ever need another I will get a steel one built.
 

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Needs the yoke and u-joints. the ujoint on the yoke side is good but I wouldn't re-use it. I'll clean it up good after bit if you want it. I thought this was bad when I pulled it but my new one is scratched worse than this one now and there is no vibration so I wasted almost a grand. And if I ever need another I will get a steel one built.
There is a good chance that slip yoke will be fine if you polish it up.

You need to educate yourself on the facts of replacing an aluminum driveshaft with a steel drive shaft. Some guys are getting away with it, while others aren't.

And FYI, the factory aluminum driveshafts can be had thru Dana distributors for a little over $400 brand new.
 

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I forgot all about that honestly. I remember talking to you about that before. What issues would I see running a steel driveshaft? seems to me it would only be an issue on who built it.
 

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I forgot all about that honestly. I remember talking to you about that before. What issues would I see running a steel driveshaft? seems to me it would only be an issue on who built it.
Depending on your tire size and gear ratio, your looking at the shaft only being "safe" up to 80-85mph before. Regardless of who built it, one driveline builder might not be as good as the next, but none of them can defy the laws of physics.
 
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