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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this seems a bit sparatic in my description but i am at my whits end and on this project for a little over 4 weeks off and on with VERY little sleep.
I have had a leak of water to oil and hydro locking when starting my truck. It got to the point i decided to just do it and do it right. I ordered the head gasket kit from merchant that had the ARP studs and head gasket, I also ordered all 8 injector cups (didnt want to do this again). when i removed the heads the right side (passenger) back 2 were full of coolant. I had the heads machined and pressure tested (with no cups as mine had not came in yet). WD-40 1000 grit sanded the block untill it had a almost mirror finish. cleaned the injector cup holes with the kent moore bore tool and HUGE Q-tip. used a TON of the red locktight that came with the gasket kit on the bottom of the injector cups, and installed all new OEM injectors to seat the cups. put back together torqued to 125 in the proper order. I went to work (heard the cups need a 24 hour cure time with the locktight so i wasent going to risk it and fill and run before) placed all back together and fired it up, changed the oil and filter 4 times to get the coolant that was in it out of the block and ports. I have drove it for 2 days, and also let idol for hours during the flush process. I have pictures of the entire process if it will help let me know.

Now I noticed it hydro locking again and slight water loss (havent filled with the dex-cool yet) I am at a loss here, no idea where to start or what it could be.
Thanks for any help
 

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I think you can put the hg's on backwards.... it looks like you coverd all your basis man sorry about you luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Triple checked the side of the head gaskets, and place up properly. When I get home I will try to post pictures of the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
these were from the tear down.


boost valve increase that i am running

more tear down

here is from the build

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
more






 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·






 

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Nice Job!!!!!!!! Love how clean you have the block and heads.

When you said you cleaned the head injector cup holes, did you cut any of the hole at the bottom where the cup seats? I have 2 heads that have a couple of injector cup holes at the bottom that leaked antifreeze and scored the bottom of the hole. Is there a tool that will shave a couple thousands off the bottom of the hole where its angled? These heads are junk to me if I can't get the injector seat cleaned up.

Any help would be appreciated.

Did you find you leak?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice Job!!!!!!!! Love how clean you have the block and heads.

When you said you cleaned the head injector cup holes, did you cut any of the hole at the bottom where the cup seats? I have 2 heads that have a couple of injector cup holes at the bottom that leaked antifreeze and scored the bottom of the hole. Is there a tool that will shave a couple thousands off the bottom of the hole where its angled? These heads are junk to me if I can't get the injector seat cleaned up.

Any help would be appreciated.

Did you find you leak?
There is a Kent Moore injector bore brush kit that I used. It is a brass looking (almost like a shotgun cleaning kit) that cleans the bore and has it preaped for the injector cups. No luck with the leak as of yet. Looking into possible having to re torque the bolts as some are saying that they have to be torqued, sit over night then re- torque. Some are also saying that each one needs to be broke loose just a bit then re torqued in order to ensure that each one is correct and not streaching
 

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my guess is the head problem also. the have a tendacy to crack they said they checked them but you never know now days.... good luck. nice pics. i have never seen anyone take the 1/4 panels off to do heads before. i would take the glow plugs out of the suspected hole and pressure test the coolant then rotated the engine to c if you get coolant in that hole. i would check the cup first before doing heads again. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just got back from running it on interstate and it is using coolant while running! checked the top hose of the radiator before removing the cap of the fill tank and it had a slight vacuum on the hose while it was idling (didnt shut off the truck when the low coolant light came on) and filled it. This was less than 5 min after the light came on on interstate.

hope this helps pinpoint it before i start pulling it back apart again
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
pressure test leaked coolant to the front passenger cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
got the head off and here is the head picture that had the leak





 

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Wow! did you figure out if it was gasket, head, or torqueing? best of luck to you in fixing it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It looks like the valve on the head, it is real white with water and oil. Hope it is just a badly installed valve guide and my new machinest can fix it or it's lookin like new head
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
That was my over use of locktight and red grease I coated the cylenders with on the back valves. That wiped right off with a little smearing with a towl. Also I didn't put the anti-freze in it, it was just distilled water untill I knew It was good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The head passed the presure test, it held 70 psi for 40 minutes, said that the cylender that was leaking had to be ground down .002 (that minor amount could have been from the removal) he wanted to see the gasket that came off. I will post info as I have it.
 

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There is a Kent Moore injector bore brush kit that I used. It is a brass looking (almost like a shotgun cleaning kit) that cleans the bore and has it preaped for the injector cups. No luck with the leak as of yet. Looking into possible having to re torque the bolts as some are saying that they have to be torqued, sit over night then re- torque. Some are also saying that each one needs to be broke loose just a bit then re torqued in order to ensure that each one is correct and not streaching
you have to torque them in three sets torque them all up break and retorque one at a time three times, 125 lbs if you used the moly lube 135lbs if you did not, i used the lube did my three sets of torquing and ran the hell out of it since then you might not have torqued them correctly. good luck.
 

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with mls head gaskets you should do retorques. you should also torque to full in 3 steps. do like 40 ft lbs, 90 ft lbs, and then 125 ft lbs. and then break lose a little and do another 125 torque and if you want, let sit over night, and do another 125 torque. MAKE SURE TO US MOLY LUBE. people say it doesnt really matter if u use moly or oil but i can say for a fact that it does matter. a guy retorqued a set of rod bolts and the shop one time with oil and couldnt figure out why he wasnt getting the right stretch on them until my boss pointed out that he used oil not moly. put moly on and bam, stretch we needed first time.
 

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did you no have the heads surfaced and decked?
 
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