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Discussion Starter #1
Last night I replaced idler arm and bracket, pitman arm, inner and outer tie rods, lower ball joints, upper control arms, shocks, cv axles, steering shock, center link (of whatever its called), brakes and links. Basically everything in the front.

Immediately I found the steering to be incredibly stiff. It requires some effort to turn the wheel (while the truck is on stands with no tires installed). I know the idler arm on the bracket wouldn't turn without a lot of force. To get it to move I had to stand on the bracket and use both hand to move the idler arm on the pivot.

Is this normal? I haven't drove it yet with power steering, but to me it looks like I have problem here. I know my knuckle assembly moved free before I installed the tie rods, so I know its not the the ball joins or cv axle.

Thanks
 

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No, absolutely not normal. You need to go back over your install and see what is causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I took it apart and the tight steering is from the idler arm/bracket assembly. I did notice the more torque you put on that pivot nut the harder it is to turn the idler arm... the instructions say 90fts which is what I had it at. I took it apart and torque it to 50lbs and it's better..

so I dont know what I should do.
 

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Here is information pertaining my 2008 model:


For the mounting bolts:


  1. Install the idler arm bolts (3) and nuts (1) to the frame.
Tighten the bolts and nuts to 105 N.m (78 lb ft).


For the arm itself
Install the new idler arm nut (3) to the idler arm (1).
Tighten the nut to 62 N.m (46 lb ft).


When correctly installed, it should move smoothly. Because it's new, it may be a little tighter than the old one, but not a lot. It's just a shaft turning with a bearing.If this a greaseable idler, apply the fitting and see if it doesn't turn more easily. I believe most replacement idlers will be greaseable.
 

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Did you measure the old length of the threads on the center link or count them before building/ installing the new one? That might be part of the problem.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I know for sure with the new assembly torque to 50lbs the old assembly has more threads showing, but like Moog has said in the past their product might be slightly different. I didn't take the old assembly apart since I had the two new pieces, so who knows if the thread is longer or shorter on one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I'm getting extremely frustrated here.

I still have very tight steering. I even bought another idler arm and bracket to see if the one I had was defective. It had the same very tight feeling while out of the truck ( I had to put my foot on the bracket so I can push the idler arm with my hand) Moog parts btw. I don't see anything hitting or binding.

It so tight that why moving the steering wheel from lock to lock hoping that it would "wear in" I started pushing fluid from under the power steering reservoir cap!!!

I don't know what else to do. I'm going to reinstall the old one and see if this changes anything. It has to be this idler arm! You cant tell me its normal for it to be this tight (while out of the truck) and I tried 2 different brackets, but both were Moog HD parts.

The fluid coming from under the power steering cap has my really pissed. Now what else do i have going on.... The truck is still on jack stands with the tires off, so there isn't any pressure from the ground and I didn't have the truck running.
 

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You are aware that turning the steering wheel engine off is much more difficult than with engine on, right? Try it with engine on and see what happens And you have lubed the new part?



It might be helpful to you and to those who read your posts to have your signature filled out with the info about your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are aware that turning the steering wheel engine off is much more difficult than with engine on, right? Try it with engine on and see what happens And you have lubed the new part?



It might be helpful to you and to those who read your posts to have your signature filled out with the info about your truck.
lol. Well I never worked on a truck that had an idler arm/pivot assembly before. So I have nothing to compare, BUT I find it hard to believe its this hard to turn with my wheels up in the AIR. I actually was going to try it with it running and with the wheels on the ground so I had my "power" assist, but now i'm pissing fluid from under the power steering cap while I manually turn the wheel while my tires are in the air. Never seen this happen before. So i'm lost. I guess I could try it, but am I going to be pissing more fluid out since the truck is running?

2005 2500HD 6.6 Duramax

Thanks
 

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Put a pan under it and give it a try. Put a big piece of plastic, cardboard, etc underneath the pan, in case you miss the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
***Update***

figure I should post what happen just in case someone has the same problem I did. I did find a couple of other threads on Google that had similar issues, but they never updated the thread with what fixed their problem.

Basically I ordered another idler arm "assembly" but this time I bought AC Delco #19153392 from Rock auto. This part number gives you the the idler arm and bracket together already assembled. Right away I could feel the difference. I could actually swing the arm on the bracket with one hand while the other is holding the "assembly".

Now I was going to run the Moog assembly, but after pissing power steering fluid from under the cap while trying to turn the steering wheel (front tires still in the air) I decide to try OE. Well the problem went away and the truck rides great. I bought quantity of 2 each of Moog part #'s K6535HD and K6723. 1 set came from Rock auto and the other came from Amazon! both were just as tight! Yes, I greased the hell out of the one I installed in the truck. I was able to return the set from amazon, but i'm stuck with the set from rock auto... Maybe this is normal for Moog, but I didn't want to take the chance since I don't feel like working on this truck out in the driveway freezing my a** off in snow. Had enough of that back when I blew my brake lines in march, and had to replace everything because of Rust..
 
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