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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, first time posting on here. I’m currently looking into getting my first duramax and did some research and am set on an LLY or LBZ as they do not have DEF emissions.

Here in SE Texas these trucks are about 16k for one with 150k miles on it bone stock. One with 200k-240k miles is about 12k. I don’t mind getting a higher mileage truck if some stuff needs to be done to it. Ultimately my budget is 20k including the lift and tires, a $300 exhaust, intake and efi live

I have done some research and have seen that the high mileage trucks would most likely require injectors, head gaskets, and a new transmission. Other than small items that might be bad (window motors, power steering pump, wiring, etc) what else should i be considering? Or should I just be buying the 16k truck?

Thanks ahead for the advice! (BTW I know a friends shop who will work on it for a decent price)
 

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IDE assume the trans would be fine on a stock truck . Only thing I think you may be looking to have to fix would be injectors is my guess . I don’t know much about the older gen duramaxs. Not sure where you are from but here in the northeast you’re not buying a higher mileage used diesel without it being rotted out .


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It took me a long time to find my LBZ. Trans should be good as long as it hasn’t been romped on or the guy is full pedal all the time and towing crazy with a hot tune. One thing to look out for would be head gasket. It isn’t common on these but just make sure to look at the truck when it hasn’t been running or operating and squeeze your rad hose. If it’s hard; prepare for gaskets in the near future. If it’s soft, you’re good to go.

When I was searching for my truck, I looked at General wear and tear items like the seat, how does frame look rust wise. Any leaks on trans or the engine? These aren’t deal breakers but something to be mindful of. Fluid looks clean on trans and oil? How do brakes look? Listen to truck run. Does it sound smooth? If I test drove one, I asked the owner if it would be alright if I get down on the truck. If he says go for it, I run the truck hard and listen to how it is under full throttle. If he says no, I was a little leary. I try to feel how trans shifts. For higher mileage ones, i also checked ball joints, u joints etc in front end. Has the owner kept up with fluid in diffs? If you or he has an edge monitor, check out the injector balance rates.

It took me a long time to find mine but it is a great truck with plenty of power and great fuel mileage for the size.


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Also if you have a buddy who owns a shop, maybe ask him to go with you if you don’t feel comfortable checking out the truck.


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Discussion Starter #5
IDE assume the trans would be fine on a stock truck . Only thing I think you may be looking to have to fix would be injectors is my guess . I don’t know much about the older gen duramaxs. Not sure where you are from but here in the northeast you’re not buying a higher mileage used diesel without it being rotted out .


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I've looked at trucks with 250k miles and rocker panels and frame are rust damage free. (minus surface rust) Thank you for your reply!
 

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I've looked at trucks with 250k miles and rocker panels and frame are rust damage free. (minus surface rust) Thank you for your reply!
No problem . Where I’m from vehicles end up in the graveyard from rot . They’re always running at the end of their life lol


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Discussion Starter #7
It took me a long time to find my LBZ. Trans should be good as long as it hasn’t been romped on or the guy is full pedal all the time and towing crazy with a hot tune. One thing to look out for would be head gasket. It isn’t common on these but just make sure to look at the truck when it hasn’t been running or operating and squeeze your rad hose. If it’s hard; prepare for gaskets in the near future. If it’s soft, you’re good to go.

When I was searching for my truck, I looked at General wear and tear items like the seat, how does frame look rust wise. Any leaks on trans or the engine? These aren’t deal breakers but something to be mindful of. Fluid looks clean on trans and oil? How do brakes look? Listen to truck run. Does it sound smooth? If I test drove one, I asked the owner if it would be alright if I get down on the truck. If he says go for it, I run the truck hard and listen to how it is under full throttle. If he says no, I was a little leary. I try to feel how trans shifts. For higher mileage ones, i also checked ball joints, u joints etc in front end. Has the owner kept up with fluid in diffs? If you or he has an edge monitor, check out the injector balance rates.

It took me a long time to find mine but it is a great truck with plenty of power and great fuel mileage for the size.


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That is good to know. My understanding was around that 200k mark the transmission wouldn't be up for an efi live tune. I don't tow much, maybe a 5,000 lbs trailer 3 times a year. I check the radiator hose for stiffness and the coolant reservoir for pressure and have not found one with what would look like a gasket problem. My biggest worry is buying a higher milage truck is if i would bend a rod, or any other major problems internally which would require a full disassembly. Not looking to push crazy power but I would like to have an exhaust and tune. At the moment it seems like a 150k millage truck is the way to go. I guess the search continues.

Thank you for your reply!
 

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Yeah I mean I wouldn’t be scared to buy a clean 200k lbz from a one owner but other than that...hard telling


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both a 150k truck for 16k or a 200k truck for 12k will have some minor issues they are 15-16 years old. with a budget of 20k you should consider what the remaining money could buy. 8k will get you some nice upgrade parts, if you can find something with injectors done that 8k would rebuild the suspension, steering, diff's, and a tune/delete you would end up with a nice truck. all depends on how much work your willing to do to get that nice truck, shop fees will be the biggest expense so if your doing the work yourself means more money for cool parts.
 

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I concur with above post entirely. No matter what you’ll have small work to do. For me it was front end rebuild with the ball joints and tie rods; anticipated from larger tires on stock front end. But if you want a lift and tires, don’t skimp on front end. Like above post, save an additional couple grand for miscellaneous parts that will wear down. I am fairly good mechanically so I do all my work myself. But if you need to take it to someone...you’d better save a few extra grand.


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