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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 lly that doesn't seem to want to read balance rates when warm 160+, all read 0. It also has a slight miss at idle when it wont read balance rates. If you put your foot on the brake it'll read and clear up (won't miss) but as soon as you let the brake off it goes back to missing every so often. This is all in park, in gear it reads fine and within spec as well as driving there's no problems. Replaced injectors back in march of this year (another issue). Also checked wiring going to the ficm and was fine. Replaced ficm and still no change.

It's to the point where I'm at a dead end on what to try next. I was going to try data logging the truck with an autocal to see what it might be but am unsure on what PID's to choose to help me diagnose this. I have checked FPR actual vs desired and that was within spec +/- .1 kpsi.

This doesn't seem to be a major problem just something that bothers me and I'd like to try and figure out what is causing it.

Anyone have some suggestions for PID's or answers to what may be causing my problems?

TIA
 

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Perhaps ask whomever will be looking at the datalog. Reason being I believe you can't view the datalog for locked tunes

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry about the long reply. Got busy at work and didn't have time to think about it. I can view data logs on the computer with EFI live and can set my own parameters/pids but I just wasn't sure which I'd need to help diagnose this problem. I'll give my tuner a call/email to see if they can help figure out what could be wrong. Don't believe it's tuning related as I put it back to stock and still did the same thing where when it got above 160 it starts to slighty miss. I feel like it's electrical related because of this.
 

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I had the same issue with my LLY. Turned out my lift pump pressure was set at 14psi. I set it at 6 psi. No problems so far.
 

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I have the same issue. Truck warms up and it misfires at idle. New injectors fpr thermostats and temp sensor still doing it. Before I installed the injectors it idled perfect. And after new injectors once 160+ idles like a gas misfire. Totally random and shakes truck. Any ideas?? I just joined the site and posted a LLY misfire when warm
The dealer said they didn’t know. Everything mechanically is perfect. No chaffs at alt wire harness bracket or ecm or ficm. This issue is driving me nuts!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I never have found the root cause of this rough idle problem. I’ve done similar to you check most the error prone areas, replaced several parts, reverted the truck back to stock but nothing helps or makes it worse. Sometimes when in park it idles relatively normal, put it in gear then back to park and it misses like a son of a gun. One thing I really haven’t checked sure close yet is grounds and that’s mostly due to not knowing exactly where they are. Just haven’t had time to research it yet. Only other possibility to me is corrupt ecm or internal short that only happens above 160. Don’t feel like shelling out the money though for an ecm if it doesn’t fix it.

One thing I’ll add is there are boatloads of stories that I’ve found regarding to these very same circumstances and no one has ever came up with a solution. So if you do please tell, or if I find grounds was the cause I’ll try to update this thread so someone else may get the answer.
 

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I had it at the dealer today and they said mechanically it’s perfect running and everything checks out good. The only thing he said was could be the ecm which was $1100 plus flash and he said it’s no guarantee. Soooo idn. PPE will Reflash ecm for $100. So I’m gonna send it to them and have them flash it and test it. But that’s gonna take atleast a week but I’ll get back to you for sure. I wanna solve this and give others a answer as well.
I start the truck up in the morning idles perfect. Then drive it 10/15 minutes and stop put in park and idles all jacked up. RPMs from 640-700ish. It’s a misfire. I’ve spent over 4 grand the past month with injectors and fpr and fuel lines and hoses and Tstats and temp sensor and nothing. Very frustrating and it’s my daily driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Besides finding the problem, I’ve thought about trying to mask the problem...160 degree thermostats if possible or fouling the computer into thinking its running below 160 to see if it still misses. I haven’t done these but just thoughts I’ve had about it.

I know what you mean about spending money and another problem arises. When injectors were going bad I replaced them hoping to fix it only to have more problems when done
 

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I am very interested in what you find out.
Just in the last week, my LLY started running rough and had a loss of power. Had some white smoke that, to me, did not initially smell like diesel. I ended up getting two codes, P0046 & P0307. I replaced the solenoid for the vanes but both codes returned. Yesterday I got the balance rates checked and found the #7 was dead in the water, #2 was pretty close to .0 and the other 6 were about a -3.0. I'm leaning towards the #7 could possibly lead to the P0046 code if the ECM could not decide where the vanes needed to be. IDK.
Anyway, gonna replace the injectors with S&S and see what happens.
 

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Besides finding the problem, I’ve thought about trying to mask the problem...160 degree thermostats if possible or fouling the computer into thinking its running below 160 to see if it still misses. I haven’t done these but just thoughts I’ve had about it.

I know what you mean about spending money and another problem arises. When injectors were going bad I replaced them hoping to fix it only to have more problems when done
I’m thinking of replacing pigtails 2&7 since there the ones that fail anyway and see if that helps.

Also what you said about fooling the temperature by lowering the temp stats idn maybe a good idea to unplug the temperature sensor and maybe that will stop the computer from reading the actual temperature. I’m sure it will throw a code so maybe not a good idea if you don’t have a edge or something to reset the code. I mean you can always unplug both batteries for 20 minutes. Should reset the ecm.
 

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I am very interested in what you find out.
Just in the last week, my LLY started running rough and had a loss of power. Had some white smoke that, to me, did not initially smell like diesel. I ended up getting two codes, P0046 & P0307. I replaced the solenoid for the vanes but both codes returned. Yesterday I got the balance rates checked and found the #7 was dead in the water, #2 was pretty close to .0 and the other 6 were about a -3.0. I'm leaning towards the #7 could possibly lead to the P0046 code if the ECM could not decide where the vanes needed to be. IDK.
Anyway, gonna replace the injectors with S&S and see what happens.
Try wiggling the #7 pigtail. The # 2 and #7 are prone to fail. They have a upgraded kit it’s like $250 for the kit but you can buy pigtails for $20 a pop. Just idea
 

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Try wiggling the #7 pigtail. The # 2 and #7 are prone to fail. They have a upgraded kit it’s like $250 for the kit but you can buy pigtails for $20 a pop. Just idea
I've done a lot of wiggling ... hoping it was not the injectors. I ice picked #7 to.

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What
Besides finding the problem, I’ve thought about trying to mask the problem...160 degree thermostats if possible or fouling the computer into thinking its running below 160 to see if it still misses. I haven’t done these but just thoughts I’ve had about it.

I know what you mean about spending money and another problem arises. When injectors were going bad I replaced them hoping to fix it only to have more problems when done
Have you replaced your ficm or had the exam reflashed?
What issues are happing and when did they start to happen?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have swapped the ficm with another working unit. It didn’t solve anything. Also inspected wiring to and from ficm. I haven’t reflashed the ecm yet, as it’s hard to find time to take truck to dealer since I’m >30 miles from one but I feel that that could be a likely problem, mostly because I’ve tried most other things.

The problems I’m having are that once up to operating temp the truck lopes/misses at idle in park/neutral. It all started when I replaced the injectors with brand new Bosch from LDS.

The idea about masking the problem was just thinking out loud. I prefer to find the problem if possible.
 

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Wow so you tried swapping the ficm. And nothing. Well the same exact problem your having mines doing the same thing. Installed 8 brand new Bosch injectors from injectorsdirect.com and then once the truck warms up to temperature it starts to lope/misfire in park or neutral. The balance rates read all 0s on my edge as well.
So my trucks at a shop now. I’m getting a new ficm and reflashing the ecm and it’s $2500 including the couple hrs of diagnostics that’s leading to the tech to believe it’s ither the ecm or ficm. So the fact that you swapped your ficm out and nothing changed has we VERY worried I’m about to waste $2500!!! So I’m definitely worried!!!! Cuz after replacing all injectors I’ve also replaced fpr and the fprv with a plug. I also replaced the filter housing with new unit I did Tstats and temp sensor and all the fuel lines high pressure and low pressure. And nothingns changed. Even bought new batteries. So now I’m worried!!!!
How long have you been driving with your truck with this issue. When did this start?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bout 1 1/2 years. I just live with it mostly. Don’t think it hurts anything just sounds like crap at idle sometimes . If I don’t want people to notice it I’ll shut off in gear and then put in park. I don’t do this very often. I couldn’t tell you if the ficm will fix it or not. It didn’t for me but you don’t have my truck. I would guess between the ficm and reflash it should fix it
 

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Thanks for the reply. So a year and half you haven’t found a answer. Wow that’s crazy!!! Blows my mind that all these people have this issue and no one has a answer.
So the new ficm and reflash I Hope is the answer for me and others. Im waiting for my truck now. Should be a couple days. I’ll post back ASAP.
 
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