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I was driving down the road one day when my truck (2009 ccsb 2500) started to sputter before just cutting off and dying, turns over and over no start. Changed the fuel filter, filter wont build pressure when trying to prime, still same start issue.After doing research discovered the problems with the fulter housing and changed it out for a brand new oem one. Now as im trying to prime it, im just getting air, no fuel whatsoever from the bleeder screw. When i take the supply line off some fuel drips out, but not enough as i should think would be there. Ive traced the lines as best i can without dismantling a bunch of shit and dont see any leaks anywhere. Have been without my truck for two weeks and not much time to work on it due to work, Am about at my wits end any ideas?
 

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You won't see any leaks as the fuel is pulled from the tank under a vacuum, that's why these trucks suck air in. You might apply light air pressure to the where you put fuel in and have someone look for leaks. This is why most add a lift pump to their trucks.
 

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A lot of people have reported issues with the filter head being the cause. I've yet to read about someone having air issues due to an OEM fuel hose connection and might have read once where someone had corrosion on a hardline causing air issues.

A rebuild kit can be found for 30-50$ although most suggest buying a new head (>$100). Outside of that, you could check your hose connections. Theres some downstream of the filter head which can be accessed by removing the intake tube. There are some on the driver side near the firewall and then there are some next to the t-case/tranny. There is one from the tank to a hard line near the fuel cooler as well.

If you replace hose, make sure its rated for biodiesel. Parker and Aeroquip make hoses that are rated. Check the link in my sig for links to a place that sells hoses (i'm not affiliated... i just did the searching). Look local as the shipping jacked up my costs.

Save the OEM fuel connectors by dremeling off the old hose crimps. If you try to use the nipples without these connectors you will be using the force of a band clamp ONLY to keep the line on as there is no bulge/flare in the pipe to prevent hose slipping off. Reuse or buy newer connectors, dont just slap the hose on.
 

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Remove or at least loosen your fuel tank cap when you are pumping the fuel filter head. May work, or may not, just try it and see if there is anything different. Don't forget to reinstall your cap before driving.

With your fuel cap off and bleeder open, you could slightly pressurize the tank by using a hose/tubing with a rag/cloth to make a seal at the fuel tank opening and blow through the hose into the tank. You don't want this to be like a balloon, just a little pressure, maybe 2- 3 lbs, enough to push the fuel to the engine.
 
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