Honestly I'd just extend your mileage out and send some samples to Blackstone. The 1807 can easily run longer mileage as it has huge capacity. I run it as well. Just extend it out to 10k and send a sample.

 

I'm wanting to get the soot out of my oil. These centrifuge systems can allow 30, 60, and 100,000 mile oil changes. They run them on heavy equipment, Tractor trailers, and anything with big diesel engines. Filters get down to 20 microns. Centrifuges get down to .2 microns. Why not use one? They clean the new Rotella T-6 better than new factory oil.

 

That’s why you send in the samples. That way you know what is happening. Why change oil if it still good.

the oil centrifugal sounds great. But if no one makes a kit and you are not sure how to install the kits.
You could in the mean time be testing your oil to see what happening.

then when someone makes a kit you will have a baseline to see if it works the way you want.

 

1807 filters down to around 4 microns, 25% at 6, 40% at 8 microns. It's a good filter. You could always run the Amsoil kit.

 

The US Navy uses centrifuges for their diesel engines, but it is not low maintenance. The centrifuge runs the while the engine is running, plus before and after. It is also cleaned every 24 hours. It is a completely separate system from the lubrication side and pulls oil from the sump, cleans it, and sends it back to the sump. In fact, there are no oil filters on these engines. Oil changes are based on acidity tests rather than hours.

Sounds great, right? Keep in mind these centrifuges are rather large, a major PITA to clean every cone, of which there are numerous and takes time to clean them. They run on electricity to get them up to the speed needed to separate the particulate matter and water from the oil with an oil warmer prior to the pump taking a suction on the sump. It is a fairly easy system but takes up quite a bit of space.

Unless you give up the bed and/or the back seat area, I can't imagine how anyone can come up with an effective oil centrifuge system on a passenger vehicle. On top of that, you would have to increase the size of the oil pan quite a bit. And on top of that, you would still have to send out an oil sample, or be able to test it yourself, for acidity. I'm not a design engineer in the least, but I don't see it being feasible. On larger equipment with the space? Sure, but not on our trucks.

 

Oil Analysis | Blackstone Laboratories

Learn what's going on in your engine with oil analysis. Our free kits are easy to use and we explain the results in plain English! Since 1985.

www.blackstone-labs.com

 

Thanks for the input. I ordered one yesterday. Space is always a factor. I bought the Spinner II-25 from IOWA.com. I have seen these things on all kinds of trucks and heavy equipment. The 25 was designed for pickup trucks. Yes, It's new for pickups to use them but PPE and the makers of spinner are now offering it. PPE offers a kit but only up to 2010 trucks. I could adapt it but I went with the one that has been around for decades. Simple system but I have to design the hardware myself. Tee into the oil cooler and run a stainless braided line to the spinner II. The Spinner II needs to be mounted above the oil fill bung so I will buy a new aluminum oil fill cap, drill and tap it, and run a fitting from cap to spinner II. I'll have to tig an aluminum plate to the top of the cap to keep it secure and professional looking. Option two is to make a bracket to mount the spinner II an inch or two, (depending on hood height), and add a small piece of 1 inch rubber hose to the bottom of spinner II to take any shock or vibration away The oil will gravity feed back into the oil fill bung on top of the valve cover. If I need to add oil, just open the top of the spinner and dump some in so it doubles as a funnel. Spinner II 25 Oil Cleaning Centrifuge for Pickups. I just found out the post office orders these on their new trucks. There should be no reason for an oil filter after installation although I would not recommend deleting the oil filter. The CAT filter I use has no mechanical oil bypass valve in it like most other filters do. Because there is no oil bypass valve, no unfiltered oil ever goes through my engine. As a result, my oil pressure, when in cold winters, increases above 120 PSI. This can cause a failure in an oil line, gasket, oil cooler, etc. because of too much oil pressure in cold temps forcing me to use a thinner oil in winter. This may alleviate that issue. https://www.iowa80.com/pub/media/pdfs/71957_TFH_INST.pdf .

Here is some instruction for a different GM engine. I just have to modify the mounting and oil return to a 6.6l L5P Duramax. http://www.spinnerii.com/files/comm_id_30/A1-5764_(GM_6.5L).pdf

This video shows the simple design as well as how much crap went past the oil filter in 5000 miles.

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This video tells you that spinner II is the most used centrifuge in the world so why trust anything else? Oil changes last up to 3 times longer. It's not that I mind changing oil. it is more my truck needs the change during a trip and I will end up running well over the oil change intervals. Also, employees don't always tell you when your truck is due for service. I have brand new two car carriers F650's and can't always down the truck for service as it will cause me to loose some cars because I wasn't able to get to the customer in time so he sells to another competitor. My roll offs make long distance runs to deliver wire, engines, radiators, batteries, etc and you have to deliver everything when the prices are up and things are cranking with no time for maintenance. I do schedule maintenance but it doesn't always happen at a convenient time. This is a balls to the walls business that works 16 hours a day, 7 days a week and we have a few locations on the east coast. I figured I would try this on my personal truck before I incorporate it into my fleet of trucks and equipment.

 

I just ordered 3 kits from black stone.

 

There is a bypass built into the filter housing.

Post some pics once you get it setup

 

Would that thing spin out the additive package from the oil?

 

Nope.

 

I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado High Country 3500 Duelly. I replaced the oil filter nipple to accept the CAT 1R-!807 oil filter to increase capacity and filtration. Duramax CAT Oil Filter Conversion Kit. I now want to add a oil centrifuge to further clean the oil. The truck hauls long distance and the 5000 mile oil change is inconvenient when on the road as well as costly. I use the T-6 Rotella.
I believe the best in centrifuges is the Spinner II. Spinner II® Products : High-efficiency lube oil filtration for heavy-duty diesel engines.. Unfortunately, I can not find a video or directions on how to install one on a 2019 L5P. Nor can I locate a kit for my engine.
I need the mounting to be sturdy and professional. I also need to know where to connect the oil lines. Adding another oil pump specifically for the Centrifuge can be an option as I seek maximum filtration. Any help would be appreciated. These trucks have become expensive due to our current circumstances in the worlds economy so low maintenance and longevity is what I am after. Love my truck and need to get every mile out of it. View attachment 1103145

Bypass filtration is a great idea and can greatly extend oil change interval, which I think is more like 10,000 miles for your truck not 5000. Perhaps you should look at a Frantz system, they have kits for everything, install videos, and a good reputation for quality products.

Frantz Filters | Advanced Oil Filtration Solutions

Established in 1953 by John Frantz, the Frantz Filter Company became a mainstay product and process for cleaning automotive oil worldwide.

www.frantzfilters.com

 

I spend $17 on each oil analysis. It allowed me to safely double my service intervals to 20,000 miles (no extra filters either). After 600,000 plus miles my engine is healthy, and I KNOW it's healthy thanks to the data. Savings per service interval are ~ $20 (more if you use syn oil) and I get to have the data. All my trucks get the same treatment. My new L5P will have it's first OLM indicated service likely next week, and we'll see where we are starting from based on the sample and move forward slowly.

 

Oil analysis is only valuable if you have results over a long period to compare to and use it to make educated decisions on when to change the oil. No point in changing it at 5000 miles and doing a test, of course it will be ok, there has not been enough time for contaminants to build up and if there is it is probably too late to do anything. Most people change their oil way to often, I just dont understand what is wrong with just following the OEM guidelines.

 

The newer trucks with DPF can have fuel dilution into the oil. That's why with any system you need to determine the baseline by analysis.

If you need a return cap, call amsoil and see if you can get an BK1201 as that is the oil filter cap already with a fitting.

I know you already ordered a kit, but Bypass Oil Filters & Centrifugal Separator Kits | Dieselcraft may be the supplier of parts to PPE. They make universal kits for all types of engines.

 

I only sample at 20k when I change the oil, to ensure things are still fine, no mid service samples so no extra costs. Attached is the oil sample history for the unit I'm talking about, column 6 is the averages over 620,000 miles. Oxidation and Nitration are pre cursors to "sludge", that gets tested, and they are fine. Any time I have been in the engine (waterpup replacement) it's clean. Also attached is a shot of the odometer from yesterday (I take pics daily to update my log book). If I need to post the last sample report I can do that too.

Not gonna derail this thread anymore. To the OP...please post your results and how you build it all.....It will be neat to see, share and learn how it all goes! Spinner II's are great units.

 

Its your vehicle I really don’t care, I learn years ago to wear high top boots when reading some of these posts claims.

 

Comparing the oil analysis in an 06 and a 19 are like comparing apples and oranges. Both are similar engines, but the EGR and DPF systems are different and cause the oil to have different results. The Oil designation from API has changed since 06 if you go back and look.

 

Unit report is for my LMM, not my LBZ. Unit switched to CK-4 oil somewhere between 300 and 400k. Wear rates and oil condition remained largely unchanged.

 

Agreed a little suspicious I’ve never seen analysts less than $25 and that was 15 years ago

 

Polaris Laboratories in Indianapolis, or their lab in Edmonton but usually Indy as it's more convenient. I have an account and buy kits in box qty's. Polaris runs many OE and private label programs for others (MTU, Oil Analyzers etc), I deal direct.

 

...

 

I decided to go a different rout. I ordered the PPM deep oil pan and will drill a hole in the side and install a Low-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Through-Wall Connector and screw a 316 Stainless Steel barbed Push-on Hose Fitting. Push on a 1 inch hose up to the centrifuge. The bottom of the centrifuge will accept a Low-Pressure 304 Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting Bolt-on Through-Wall Adapter. These are used to connect to a fuel tank but will bolt right up to the centrifuge with a gasket and enable me to add another 316 Stainless Steel barbed Push-on Hose Fitting to finish the return line. I'm not too thrilled with the tiny hole these oil caps provide and my cap is not in a great position for a gravity fed oil return. God forbid the hole is not big enough and the oil collects and fills the centrifuge. What a catastrophic mess if it fails.
Like FreedomOne said, Where the oil filter is, there are a few plugged off threaded ports so I will use a high pressure high heat stainless line screwed direct from the centrifuge inlet, to the oil filter outlet port.for a direct connection. I feel stainless is the best as it will not rust or react to the aluminum pan and cast steal base of the centrifuge. I have to make a bracket to mount the centrifuge to the drivers side cross bar bolts, as there is plenty of room in that space just behind the clean out for the hood scoop. So my setup will cost me around $1500 when all is said and done but it is built with hose that withstands 500 degree temps and will flex and withstand rubbing for as long as my truck is alive and will not break down and contaminate my oil. This is just a test for all of my trucks and heavy equipment. If all goes well, I will use cheaper fittings, hoses, and bungs.

https://www.iowa80.com/pub/media/pdfs/71957_TFH_INST.pdf
https://www.iowa80.com/pub/media/pdfs/71957_TFH_INST.pdf
https://www.iowa80.com/pub/media/pdfs/71957_TFH_INST.pdf

 

The one I linked before uses an air pump to push the oil out of the centrifuge housing through the hose and back into the engine sump.

Get the PPE directions for where to tap into the oil cooler. That's where the PPE one on the 04 is tapped into.

 

I run the same cat filter setup. I test my oil every change with Blackstone and run to. It's consistently 10000+ miles recommended. The file is so huge it is amazing for filtering for 11 quarts of oil for 10k. It's actually designed to filter 10 gallons for 15k miles. I had the motor oil geek if this setup was good and he said thumbs up, big the filter the better. A bypass filter is overkill, if you have a deleted truck. Way less soot in oil to filter. Run the cat filter and run 10k and it will be perfect. Technically you can get 15k out of it but $25 for a filter and $50 for oil, why not change at 10k to be safe.

 

My setup is similar, I'll make a thread when i'm done.
Consists of remote filter relocation, I'll be using the PPE remote filter relocation kit.
it will run thru the cooler, then Tee off ; One side of the tee going into the remote oil filter (HUBB) and then back to the engine, The other side of the Tee will go to frantz oil filter and then back into the engine via engine oil fill cap.

 

Seems like another failure point to me. People are getting 500,000+ miles out of diesel engines these days. No need for a centrifuge system and the potential failure(s) it introduces.