Some of the uoa reports have the oil sheering down below specs by 3000k miles so your doing good keeping it short.

 

I was not aware of that..good to know

 

You need to do a few things in my opinion. I have been doing my oil myself a long time, and that because the guys who are supposed to do oil changes are inept at it 35-50% of the time. They really don't know what to put in it. I run my trucks and vans here in NYC. We do lots of stop and go traffic. I find the indicator on the DIC very accurate. I have tested oil on the Dashboard indicator, and oil analysis has been close to it. I recently ran my truck 2500 miles from Florida to NYC, and no loss in oil, and tested it at Blackstone, and they told me that the oil is at 50-60% before i change it. Again, this is all highway run. When i am here in NYC, in stop and go Blackstone does not recommend i pass 3,500 miles on the oil. But this has been very close to what the Oil indicator has told me. I am not saying the oil indicator is 100% accurate, but if you wait to do your oil between 5% and 25% based on that indicator, you will be 100% fine based on my lab testing results, and driving styles. I understand some of you don't care about oil changes, as it is cheap insurance, but i do not like to be wasteful either. Here in NYC i have to swap oil in the spring and in the fall based on usage, and that can add up in fuel filters, air, filters. Hells, i would say make sure front end grease is done every 5,000 miles or so....some people neglect that. In your case, do 3000 miles, and test at Blackstone to see how much life left in the oil....again, remember what type of driving you normally do. This should give you a good idea....not all 0w-20s shear right away, not the case at all.

 

Interesting..

When I was in The Air Force..I started tearing down and building Jet Engines..went on to doing repairs on most Air Force Equipment..

Then Sent overseas and was assigned to do oil testing...The Air Force had testing equipment so sophisticated we could tell within 20 hours when a bearing would fail..We then pulled the engine for rebuild.

I was then assigned to test cell testing. And ..you could tell which team did garbage work the moment you put the vib meters on the engine..
.
I will never forget..Only senior NCO's would handle torque wrenches..they were like .a religious experience..Nothing left the shop until it was cailbrated..


What I learned about oil was the high grade synthetics never really failed..they in fact became "dirty" and it was the contamination that created the problems..

You Sir ... and Blackstone are right on ..3000-3500 miles is the magic numeric especially on diesels

I have had rough experiences with a number of dealers..I dont trust some to do the work by the book..

And these vehicles are getting to be stupid money..$ 90,000 Dollars for a 2500 Duramax and you have these techs that look at you like you shot their dog when you ask about the setting on the drain bolt.

And the manufacturers with their 7500 /10,000 mile service intervals are doing more harm than good

You are also correct on "routine" maintenance..In the end it is very cheap insurance

 

Agreed, the newer oils are basically "catch cans" for the soot particulate, and are encapsulated in the oil, so its bes to have fresh oil in there to keep things good, and under the threshold....I have no idea of anyone that does 7,500 miles, but i am sure with certain grades of oils that do not have major viscosity improvers....Enjoy your inline 6!

 

OK. I am one of the oil nut guys. I always change oil on new vehicles between 500-1,000 miles and then each 3,000 after that. The only vehicle I didn't do this with was my wife's Honda Odyssey van where we did 5,000 miles because she could remember those numbers. We just sold that van at a nice premium. I just had the dealer change my oil in my new 2021 Sierra 1500. I don't trust those guys to carry my lunch so I am very interested in changing my own oil especially in this diesel engine. A few questions if you don't mind. I have not found a good reference for torque values yet. What is the proper torque setting for the oil plug and oil filter?

TIA

 

If My memory serves ..its 20 For the drain Bolt.

Aluminum drain pans are more fragile than basic oil pans. The oil drain plug may be a basic drain plug, but the torque amount will be different.

The typical torque specification for oil drain plugs on an aluminum oil pan is 20 to 25 foot-pounds.

.Most oil canisters recommend hand tighten..Some have the torque settings on the box..

I always"firm" or do the double hand tight..Be very careful to make sure the oil lip ring from the old canister has been removed.... If not... it will leak

Also.. I ALWAYS fill the oil filter with new oil and lube the new seal That way when you start the engine it will have immediate oil flow ( this is not done in the dealers setting )
and make sure to carefully screw it on the post

I then start the engine ..let it run for a few moments.Then shut it off..do a thorough check to see there are no leaks..I then let it run for another ten minutes..then take it out for a few laps... and bitch slap it..then look for any leaks.

One thing I did notice..was how much cooler the engine runs it stays at 200 F vs 210

 

Thank you. All advice appreciated.

 

Welcome

 

Another dumb question. Amsoil is new to me. Why Amsoil 0-20 vs. Mobile 1 0-20? I don't mind paying more but I am just curious. Is Amsoil that much better?

 

Delco is made by Mobile 1 Under contract..

Amsoil has better sheer..flow ..film rates


Im not an Amsoil fanboy but My engine is quieter..shfit points are smoother and The constancy is always the same..no subcontracts to other refineries

Amsoil has a good reputation.

.Watch the actual tests..

You can subscribe $ 20 year and the price is moot...

Amsoil is a true synthetic..not a synthetic blend..I would run the factory oil for at lest 1000-1500 miles before you run any synthetic..

 

Wow. That was one really great video with a lot of good information. I have around 4,500 miles on my truck as I needed to use it to go to Missouri and buy a new travel trailer. Now, I need to see how I can get my hands on Amsoil.

This is a really great thread.

 

PapaJeep, if you haven’t already done it I can set you up. I am an independent Amsoil Dealer. You can contact me at lhayes.amsoil@gmail .com. I will pay all your first year fees.
Note to forum, if I this isnt allowed delete my post.

 

Hope it helps..

You can have it delivered or pick it up...

AMSOIL Distribution Center Locator - AMSOIL

Find AMSOIL Distribution Centers across the US and Canada.

www.amsoil.com

 

OK. A blind hog finds an acorn every now and then. That is the exact site I found and signed up as a preferred customer with my order. Thanks. Good to know I went to the right place. Now I know what you mean about $20 subscription. I will also look up Amsoil for my Jeeps. This has been a good night on a dreary Monday.

 

First off, I'm no expert on the LM2 engine so I may be talking out of my ear but I disagree with the need to fill the oil filter before installation. In every engine I've encountered the filter is the last thing the oil sees before returning to the pan. The oil pump pick up is in the oil pan and submerged as soon as you pour fresh oil in. After it circulates through the engine it will fill the filter. While it certainly can't hurt anything in this scenario there is no benefit to pre filling the filter.

It doesn't apply here just a fun fact: In a dry sump engine the best practice is actually to leave the oil filter off and run the engine until fresh oil comes out then install the filter thus assuring you get all the old oil out.

 

For over 30 Years This is what I have done..It's like a Friday Night Date..A little extra Lipstick may not make any difference But I feel better

 

I wonder if Fumoto has a drain valve for this engine yet?

 

Not yet..

Were Looking into the German Valve We..Do not like the Petcock on The Fumoto

 

It is up on their website with a choice of 4...

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/cars-pickups-gmc-2021-sierra-1500-3-0l-l6-turbo

 

It is up on their website with a choice of 4...


Thanks for the insight..I

Do you know the thread dimensions for the Aluminum Pan ?

 

.

 

Thread dimensions Metric..Or Imperial

 

I believe its M12

 

Thanks..Much Appreciated

 

A question since we are on oil changes? Does anyone have a magnetic drain plug, and is it worth putting magnets on the metallic oil filter instead? Just curious to see what you guys would say.

 

PPE has a built in magnet

 

PPE - Premium High-Efficiency Oil Filter 114000650 Compatible with 2019-2021+ GM 3.0L Silverado 1500 (Replaces AC Delco PF66)

 

I just did my first oil change at 1400 miles on my 21 today. Really easy and it was nice to have the filter right next to the pan. Got the oil/filter from the dealer for $51. I always fill the filter before installation and tightened the drain bolt to 18 ft/pounds. I have fumoto valves on my other vehicles and will get one for the next change on this little duramax.

 

To each their own. I have a 2004 Duramax with 265,000 miles on it. I use Delo 15w40 oil, which is both diesel and turbo rated. I have changed my oil every 10,000 since the truck was new. Does not use a drop of oil between changes. Has excellent oil pressure also. And as a rancher, my old Chevy has seen it's share of heavy loads! 38 foot gooseneck trailer with 12,000lbs of hay on board, 70 mph, and no problems. Hell of a truck. i'm 70 years old and bought this one new. Gonna be my last truck I hope!

 

Wait! U better rethink that comment 🤠🤣

 

I have a 3500 019 L5P, my oil life monitor looses 1% oil life every 10-12 miles, GMC says must be the way your driving, sent oil sample in after “Change Oil”came on, (1137)miles, same le came back good, truck goes into regen every 260-300 miles, I wonder if I should go with the 3000 mile oil change interval or stick with the algorithm generated oil life.

 

I have a 3500 019 L5P, my oil life monitor looses 1% oil life every 10-12 miles, GMC says must be the way your driving, sent oil sample in after “Change Oil”came on, (1137)miles, same le came back good, truck goes into regen every 260-300 miles, I wonder if I should go with the 3000 mile oil change interval or stick with the algorithm generated oil life.
[/QUOTE

Diesels are Diesels..

On My gasoline vehicles the manufacturers say 10,000 Miles.. I never go over 5.000

Read the 2500/Ford/Ram HD protocols ..These guys run the PPE/CAT filters extend the oil changes ...do it themselves

And each to his own..I can change the oil in about 10-15 minutes.. I stay between 3000/3500 Miles.Some people use the algorithims.

I make certain I have fresh oil in the extremes..Cold/Hot weather/Heavy towing

It costs less than having one of the lot boys at the dealership do it.

I drive a lot of miles..in a short period of time. I dont even think about it..Its routine maintenance

 

When the oil lif meter gets down to 50%, I change it.

 

Diesel Engine Oil & Filters - Engine Builder Magazine

More recently, diesels are competing against hybrid and plug-in electric powertrains as an alternative to gasoline engines in passenger cars.

www.enginebuildermag.com

 

The article's information about Deere's break-in oil hours recommendation are incorrect.

I quit reading at that point...

 

Thanks all for what may seem like TMI regarding oil. With that said, I was not overly concerned with this on my 2015 LML. Until the dealer said I was kinda past due (when I was in complaining about what I guess was issues with the variable turbo vanes.) Just picked up a 2021 Denali, You can dam well bet I will be more religious about this in the future. Thank you all - And I guess the first oil change will be much earlier than 5k miles

 

My 08 Duramax has over 300,000 on the clock. About 50% of the miles pulling a 14,000# trailer in a variety of flat and mountain terrain. I don't baby it.

I change oil and filter when the DIC gets down into the 10% range. Typically that's in the 6,000-8,000 mile range. I use plain old Rotella T.

It just keeps on ticking.

Using fancy synthetics and dumping it out every 3,000 miles may give you a warm fuzzy feeling, but you could buy a lot of good beer with that money, and your truck wouldn't know the difference.