Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
All,
I swapped out the 2 piece driveshaft on my 2007 Crew Cab long bed dually today and thought it might help if I posted the info here for all. The job took about 2 hours from set up to clean up. It was also done on my back in the driveway so guys with lifts and a better selection of tools should be able to get it done quicker. On a 1 to 5 scale I'd rate this about a 2 and I'm no mechanic by a long stretch.
First thing is a list of parts and prices. The part numbers were a real pain to get because everyone wanted a VIN number. I finally got a VIN from my local dealer for a 2015 CCLB diesel and that opened Pandora's box for me.

Driveshaft: PN 23251132 $422.10
Pinion yolk kit: PN 19257639 $127.50 This part comes with a new seal, washer, and nut so no need to order the pinion seal separately.
Retainer: PN 23170499 $7.78 NEED 2 this is the u joint strap.
Retainer bolt: PN 11548472 NEED 4 these are your strap bolts. You can use the old ones but I chose to get new.
I also chose to replace the transfer case output seal, this is a pricey one and you may or may not want to do it.
Seal: PN 12478093 $62.04
Total: $637.78
Tax: $38.27
Grand total: $676.04

I know I could have saved some money by going to the internet, but I do a lot of business with my local dealer so I decided to go through him and keep my money where I live. I cannot speak to what trucks this will and won't fit so your on your own there. I will add some more detail in another post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Ok lets get into a bit more info here. This is the way I did it and I'm sure it's not the only way, just my way. First this is a great time to change your transfer case and rear differential lube. Your going to loose a bit of each when the driveshaft is removed so why not.

1) Drain the transfer case fluid, you will need an 18 mm shallow socket for this. Now if you don't have a hand pump that you can attach to your lube containers this is a good time to buy one. The fill plug is right behind the cross member and not easy to get to so be prepared.

2) Drain the rear diff. lube, you don't need to do this but you will loose about a quart when you remove the pinion yolk and seal.

3) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the rear u joint straps in place, 11mm here. Yu can reuse the old ones, I chose to buy new. Now free the driveshaft from the pinion yolk and let it rest on the ground.

4) Now move to the carrier bearing, there are 2 nuts here (15mm) that you need to remove. Be careful here as this is whats holding up the driveshaft and you really don't want this thing on your forehead.

5) Remove the old shaft.

6) Remove and replace the transfer case rear output seal PN #12478093. Now this is another part that you could leave alone if you wish, again I chose to change it as since it's disassembled this far why not.

7) Now you need to remove the plate that the carrier bearing was mounted to. This needs to be done to insure there is enough room for the new driveshaft to move up and down. The new shaft is a monster so it's best just to get it gone. I chose to completely remove all traces of the plate and repaint the crossmember while I was there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
8) Now move to the back of the truck and remove the pinion yolk. This needs to be done as in 2007.5 GM changed from a 1410 u joint to a 1480. There is an adapter joint made that is a cheaper alternative if you would like to save some money and hassle. You'll need a 36mm 12 pt. socket for this. You guys in the "no salt" states will probably have a easier time with this than I did. It was not bad but it did take a bit if heat and PB Blaster to get it done. One warning here there is a crush sleeve used here so count the EXACT number of turns it takes to remove the pinion nut so you can replicate this during reinstallation. I had 3 full threads showing past the top of the nut. Also setting the parking brake and leaving the truck on the ground helps a lot . This video may help, special Thanks here to C20ELEPHANT for the video link. P.S. Have your drain pan ready if you did not drain the rear diff. you will loose about a quart.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15zHpz6Zx8c



9)Once the yolk is off you need to replace the outer seal. Just pry out the old one and install the new. It comes with the kit I noted in my first post.

10) Install the new pinion yolk.

11) Now your ready to install the new driveshaft. Lube the inside splines of the transmission slip yolk and put just a little on the inside of the seal lip. Slide it in gently.

12) Fit the rear u joint into the yolk and install the u joint straps and 4 bolts (11mm) and tighten to spec.



13) Refill the transfer case and rear diff if they were drained, otherwise top them off.

Your all done, take her for a test drive. My truck was much smoother on acceleration and deceleration. Funny thing is I had a 2003 Dodge Cummins and had the same problems and same solution. Dodge made changes in later model years to a one piece shaft and it would fit previous years just like we did here.

Anyway hope this helps some people out and maybe keeps a few bucks in your wallet at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Do you know what years these part numbers will fit? I just looked them all up through GM Parts Direct and its about $570 delivered. You would save about a $100. What is the drive shaft made out of and do you feel the weight has been reduced?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Do you know what years these part numbers will fit? I just looked them all up through GM Parts Direct and its about $570 delivered. You would save about a $100. What is the drive shaft made out of and do you feel the weight has been reduced?
The new driveshaft u joint center to center measurement is 85 ¼" I cannot, and will not say if it will fit your vehicle you will need to measure in a straight line what you have now. The difference in my old to the new was 1 ⅛" which was perfect to leave enough room for the slip yolk to move. IF you have a CCLB 4x4 I would GUESS it should fit.
The new shaft is aluminum and yes it is much lighter, in fact the box the new shaft came in was heavier than the shaft itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
So how does it ride?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Measured me truck and from the center of the U-joint on the trans and the center of the rear pinion u-joint it measured 86 1/4" looks like it is an 1" longer than yours. Is there enough play in the trans yoke to slide out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Measured me truck and from the center of the U-joint on the trans and the center of the rear pinion u-joint it measured 86 1/4" looks like it is an 1" longer than yours. Is there enough play in the trans yoke to slide out?
When I measured the 2 piece shaft (while still in place) it came out the same 86 1/4" as yours so the one piece will fit fine. Yes there is plenty of room for the slip yolk to move in and out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Did you need to replace the yoke at the tale of the trans?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Looks like I need to look into a one piece driveshaft for my 2wd CC/LWB dually.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
142 Posts
I'm going for it.

I got my one piece drive shaft, yoke kit, straps and bolts today. I've got a couple questions. The video C20elephant provided is very helpful but.... I thought I should use the new nut provided with the pinion kit and if I do, marking the position of the old one really does not help with reassembly. should I just reuse the old nut? also along the same line of thought, if I am changing pinion yokes that were manufactured at different times possibly on different machines maybe even in different plants how is marking the position of the pinion nut of any value? parts are machined to within certain tolerances determined in engineering. these tolerances have a plus or minus factor meaning one yoke compared to another may not have the same EXACT dimensions.

OR>>>>am I over thinking this operation?

Proneshooter, what did you use to cut the support bearing mount out with? Angle grinder?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I reused the old nut as my thinking was along the same lines as yours about the pinion yolk. Used a Metabo and then a flap disc to smooth it all out, shot some black rattle can paint on the bare metal called it good. HTH
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,242 Posts
Will the one piece shaft fit a stock height (non-lifted, non leveled) truck?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
142 Posts
that's what I'm putting it on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
142 Posts
Done!

One piece is in. Took her around the town and all seems well. No leaks, howls, whines, or vibrations. can't wait to get her on I275 for a proper shake down. thanks again to Proneshooter and everyone else for their advice, knowledge and experience>
Duramax Forum Rocks!:neener
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thank you.

I been have issues with vibration and shudder also had the drive line balanced all u joints replaced and it was still there two years later the carrier bearing has went out. I have a 2007.5 so I shouldnt need any extras besides the driveline itself which I ordered today. Drive line shop in town wants $700 to $900 to build a 5" driveline. Hope this fixes my vibrations cause they are not good ones.
 
1 - 20 of 58 Posts
Top