Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner

41 - 58 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
HELP! I just received all the parts to replace my two piece driveshaft with the aluminum one piece. The pinion yoke kit (#19257639) arrived with the seal already pressed onto the yoke. After reading about everybody's installs and watching the video, I thought I was supposed to tap the seal into the differential first, then install the yoke. With it already pressed onto the yoke, do I just put it up there, thread the nut on, and drive it home (I mean carefully line up the marks on the old nut and put it back to where it was with the old yoke)?? Thanks.
Mine did not come that way, see if you can just pull the seal off you should be able to. Maybe this is their new way of shipping the seal with no damage.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
one piece drive shaft

dealer replaced drive shaft in my 01 dmax from 2 piece to large one piece aluminum. Truck was long cab(not crew) long bed,corrected all launch shudder when towing 5er. Perfect fix.My 03 dmax was 6 spd. manuel trans,chev. did not have a one piece available at that time for stick.My 11 and 14 both came with one piece aluminum,chev has known that the two piece drive shaft had shudder issues.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,860 Posts
It is probably a two piece seal if so take the outer off and put it in the housing just as you would with a one piece. Then ensure the inner is completely installed on the yoke then install the yoke. You will need to be able firmly to hold the yoke to torque the pinion nut. Torque the nut by hand, the only way to know how tight is by feel, you want it as tight as you can get it (WITHOUT CRUSHING THE CRUSH SLEEVE ANY MORE THAN IT WAS ORIGINALLY) if you crush the sleeve any more it will alter the preload on the pinion bearings and you will need to disassemble it all install a new sleeve and reset the preload.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Well, the seal wouldn't come off by hand so I carefully (as careful as I could anyway) pried it off with two screwdrivers, rotating it as I was prying. I ended up marring the flat back part of the yoke and the front of the seal a little bit. Is this a critical area to seal? I'm guessing it's not. I was thinking of running ScotchBrite and/or emery cloth over the back of the yoke to get it a little smoother. Should I get a new seal or just run with it? Thanks for all the input. I cut the carrier bearing mount off this evening, but I need to grind out my cuts and paint it. I'm waiting on a puller to arrive in the mail to get the old yoke out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
/Users/pokey200/Desktop/IMG_1078.jpg/Users/pokey200/Desktop/IMG_1068.jpg/Users/pokey200/Desktop/IMG_1071.jpg/Users/pokey200/Desktop/IMG_1070.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I'm trying to get pics up but this Mac is kicking my butt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Youll definitely want to replace the seal or youll have a pinion leak. I replaced mine and i still have a slight weep... common thing for alot of vehicles.

Have almost a year and 30,000 miles on my one piece shaft from DMAXstore. So far its perfect, no more vibrations! Butter smooth on takeoff. Also looks alot better under the truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Thanks for all of the responses. It turns out that the piece that was installed on my yoke was the sleeve or dust shield. An actual pinion seal was never included in my kit, which was why I mistook the sleeve for the seal. Good ole inexperience with this drivetrain rearing it's ugly head. I also should've figured out how to post pictures! Anyway, it looks like there is a Pinion Seal Kit (Part# 74020013) available through your local AAM dealer that includes both the sleeve and the seal, but I lost my nerve for this part of the project and went to my local driveline shop. He did not like my new GM aluminum driveshaft (had some weld issues) and is making a custom one, thick wall 5" aluminum from end to end, at about double the price (Yay!). Oh well, at least it'll be done and I won't have to worry about spinning it in two while crossing the desert in 120 degree heat. The mechanic will do the yoke swap for about $100 (one hour labor), which is worth it to me at this point.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Just pulled the trigger on this as I am now having vibration and shudder issues. For you guys that have done this how long did it take you all?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Took me an hour to remove the old shafts, cut the bearing hanger out, and install the new one. Be sure to use loctitie on the rear yoke strap bolts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
red 242 locktite? Also can you use a breaker bar or is a compressor and impact needed?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,860 Posts
You can remove the pinion nut with an impact but put the new one on by hand, it is too easy to over tighten and crush the crush sleeve more preloading the pinion bearing too much.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
I got my one piece drive shaft, yoke kit, straps and bolts today. I've got a couple questions. The video C20elephant provided is very helpful but.... I thought I should use the new nut provided with the pinion kit and if I do, marking the position of the old one really does not help with reassembly. should I just reuse the old nut? also along the same line of thought, if I am changing pinion yokes that were manufactured at different times possibly on different machines maybe even in different plants how is marking the position of the pinion nut of any value? parts are machined to within certain tolerances determined in engineering. these tolerances have a plus or minus factor meaning one yoke compared to another may not have the same EXACT dimensions.

OR>>>>am I over thinking this operation?

Proneshooter, what did you use to cut the support bearing mount out with? Angle grinder?



Are you marking the nut just to find depth after tightening to equal original depth? Would you measure the thickness of the two yokes? Not sure if I should change the yoke just remove and aim for the same depth or use a conversion joint? Lastly, would it be better to use a caliper depth gauge from the base of the pinion to the surface of the nut? I do like the 1480 joint and think that sucker will last the life of the truck...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So has anyone done this on a lifted truck? I thought I read that someone has but that driveshaft is too short ( or what seems too short ) for a lifted truck. I have an LB7 CCLB Dually with a 7" BDS lift and the transfer case yoke sticks out quite a bit. I doubled checked all part numbers to ensure the driveshaft was correct. I think the 5" lift blocks in the rear are enough to make it too short and hang out of the T case too much. I really didn't want to cut this thing up but it looks like it has to go to the driveshaft shop for some extending. Thoughts?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,668 Posts
fyi

this is the same kit DMAXSTORE sells. As you can see you can get from a dealer, rock Auto, gm parts direct.... its no secrete

If you need part numbers feel free to hit me up...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
For the part number given in the original post is that for an myd or mw7 tranny. And does it matter ? Im trying to get one through an auto wrecker and they say they need this info. Could transmission length be different?
 
41 - 58 of 58 Posts
Top