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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I currently own a 96 ford 7.3 4x4 supercab. Wife wants a baby soon and would like a newer truck with 4 doors for our road trips with the toy hauler. We live in Phoenix and tow a 6k lb toy hauler (can be around 8-10k lbs depending on what is loaded in it). We take a handful of road trips to the Glamis sand dunes every season, other than that, the truck would be a daily driver and occasionally tow a 7k lb boat to the lake.

I have come a cross an original owner 2006 chevy LT 2500 4x4 crew cab short bed. The truck looks reasonably clean for being 15 years old, white in color and has 220k miles. I believe it is the LBZ motor because the 8th digit of the Vin# is a '2'. Truck seems to be all stock. Owner is asking $15k...

I went to look at the truck and it has a fairly significant oil leak, owner said maybe a drop a day or so. He seems like decently honest guy and doesnt seem to be hiding anything that I can tell. Paint has a lot of chipping, he said he thinks the 2006 white duramax had an issue with this. I'm not too worried about the paint because I cant afford a new truck, and most of the significant paint damage is on the top of the cab anyhow. The truck interior seems well kept for its age as well.

He has offered to come down to $13k from his original asking price of $14k

I do not want to make a ton of horsepower or add crazy tuning. Maybe add tunes for improved MPG's while daily commuting and a towing mode at most. I just want a reliable tow rig for family road trips. I am perfectly fine making a couple small mods to further increase reliability.

Does this truck seem like a good fit for my family based on your guys knowledge?

thanks in advance, this is my first time in a Duramax forum!


 

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LBZ is a "D" for #8 in the VIN. It's LLY with a 5-speed there. IF the previous owner didn't get the paint fixed or the oil leak fixed that means there is a list of issues to me. I'd keep looking.
 

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LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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8th digit 2, 10th digit 6....that's an '06 LLY.
Early '06 production had a lesser LLY tune, but still the newer LBZ engine design and the 6-spd tap shift.

Roof is messed up....you're going to have to address that (painted), won't be long 'till it's leaking thru.
The oil leak thing.....it's not common, but I'd be lookin' as to where it stems from.
A leak will get worse, not better.
Rear seal could be costly, if that's what it is.

But is it even engine oil? Lots of other fluids to leak.

Price/miles is okay....but I'm kinda with cdub and lack of maintenance, never even looking into what's leaking. And the roof paint....a small rock chip and never trying touch up to seal, turns into what you see after many years of, "oh well".
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I thought the 8th number in the Vin being a '2' meant it was an LBZ? Vin is 1GCHK23266F******

Now I am super confused...

8th digit 2, 10th digit 6....that's an '06 LLY.
Early '06 production had a lesser LLY tune, but still the newer LBZ engine design and the 6-spd tap shift.

Roof is messed up....you're going to have to address that (painted), won't be long 'till it's leaking thru.
The oil leak thing.....it's not common, but I'd be lookin' as to where it stems from.
A leak will get worse, not better.
Rear seal could be costly, if that's what it is.

But is it even engine oil? Lots of other fluids to leak.

Price/miles is okay....but I'm kinda with cdub and lack of maintenance, never even looking into what's leaking. And the roof paint....a small rock chip and never trying touch up to seal, turns into what you see after many years of, "oh well".
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, I just looked it up again and I was completely wrong. I had them backwards I guess... I guess its not an LBZ after all.

You guys have officially spooked me haha

I thought the 8th number in the Vin being a '2' meant it was an LBZ? Vin is 1GCHK23266F******

Now I am super confused...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hook'em, you are right on the money. I just asked him and he said it is an LBZ motor with LLY tuning and this particular truck does indeed have a 6spd trans with a push button for tow mode.

8th digit 2, 10th digit 6....that's an '06 LLY.
Early '06 production had a lesser LLY tune, but still the newer LBZ engine design and the 6-spd tap shift.

Roof is messed up....you're going to have to address that (painted), won't be long 'till it's leaking thru.
The oil leak thing.....it's not common, but I'd be lookin' as to where it stems from.
A leak will get worse, not better.
Rear seal could be costly, if that's what it is.

But is it even engine oil? Lots of other fluids to leak.

Price/miles is okay....but I'm kinda with cdub and lack of maintenance, never even looking into what's leaking. And the roof paint....a small rock chip and never trying touch up to seal, turns into what you see after many years of, "oh well".
 

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It's a common mix. I don't think they had the tuning worked out for the new engine in late '05, and they loaded what was available.

Some call it an LLZ. :howdy
You could have the newer tuning flashed in....bumps torque from 605 to 650.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The seller has agreed to let me take the truck to my choice of diesel shop to have it looked over. I am going to set something up for later this week. The seller has been super nice and accommodating throughout all of our discussions.

I know the truck is not perfect, but are there any issues specific to these 2006 duramax's that I should ask the shop to specifically look into? I have been scouring these forums for issues related to this year and I think I have a few in mind. I just want to get a feel for the overall health of the motor and transmission.

Things that I'd like to ask the shop to check specifically:

- head gaskets - was this still an issue on the 06 LLY?
- pump rub on the transfer case
- origin of oil leak
- I read somewhere that I should check the injector balance rate? Is this a reasonable thing to ask of the shop who inspects the truck?
- Also read that checking fuel rail pressure would be a good idea, again, is this something the shop can do?
 

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While the previous gen had a problematic HG design, there were also many other contributing design factors under the hood that stressed the HG design.

All of those contributing factors were corrected with the next gen 6-spd LBZ (LLZ).
However, as time has progressed, we've also found out that GM continued using the old style HGs on the early '06 models, until inventory was depleted.

Later '06 models had the newer updated HG design. Being an LLZ, it also has the old style HGs. However, that doesn't mean the HGs are destined for failure.
Because all of the contributing design flaws were corrected.

Checking balance rates on a hot engine, 'can' show out of spec rates, but it's not the end-all of diagnosing worn injectors. A return rate test is more definitive.
But as I've found out, there's not many shops that have the ability or knowledge to properly measure return rates.

Rail pressure;.....with a hot engine, hot fuel, rail pressure 'desired' levels not keeping up with 'actual' levels, can be caused by excessive return rates from worn injectors.

But the rail pressure not keeping up, can also be 1 or more of 6 different things as a cause.
'dunno;
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited by Moderator)
That's good to hear that the issues which contributed to HG failures were improved on this particular motor, definitely makes me feel a little better about the truck having 220k miles. The guy also said he has never really towed much more than a flatbed trailer with a couple ATV's on it. So I feel like its less likely to have been run hard.

Tomorrow morning the truck is going to a local shop called Done Right Diesel. Seller is dropping the truck off to have an inspection done, should have some info by tomorrow afternoon.

While the previous gen had a problematic HG design, there were also many other contributing design factors under the hood that stressed the HG design.

All of those contributing factors were corrected with the next gen 6-spd LBZ (LLZ).
However, as time has progressed, we've also found out that GM continued using the old style HGs on the early '06 models, until inventory was depleted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had the truck inspected this morning and the results made me feel somewhat re assured. They said the oil leak didn't seem too major at this point, and that they wouldn't bother fixing it until it becomes more of an issue. They think is is either a pan gasket or the rear main, in which case they said worst case scenario it would be round 1K to fix. Front ball joints are looking a bit worn and the rear driver side window motor needs replaced. Aside from that, they said the truck looks to be in good shape for its age and miles. I asked the shop owner if he felt the price for the truck was fair at 13k and he said "Yeah, I would have no issue paying that for a bone stock truck in this condition, ever with the 220K miles"

I think I am going to go drive the truck tonight. Will probably talk to the wife and sleep on it a bit.

I figure at 13k if I have to put a little bit of money into the truck, its still not too bad. Would you guys agree?

While the previous gen had a problematic HG design, there were also many other contributing design factors under the hood that stressed the HG design.

All of those contributing factors were corrected with the next gen 6-spd LBZ (LLZ).
However, as time has progressed, we've also found out that GM continued using the old style HGs on the early '06 models, until inventory was depleted.

Later '06 models had the newer updated HG design. Being an LLZ, it also has the old style HGs. However, that doesn't mean the HGs are destined for failure.
Because all of the contributing design flaws were corrected.

Checking balance rates on a hot engine, 'can' show out of spec rates, but it's not the end-all of diagnosing worn injectors. A return rate test is more definitive.
But as I've found out, there's not many shops that have the ability or knowledge to properly measure return rates.

Rail pressure;.....with a hot engine, hot fuel, rail pressure 'desired' levels not keeping up with 'actual' levels, can be caused by excessive return rates from worn injectors.

But the rail pressure not keeping up, can also be 1 or more of 6 different things as a cause.
'dunno;
 

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Wetness at the rear is not a problem. It's when it's bad enough to leave a puddle/stain when it sits, but then I'd still have to think 'bout it before diving in to a repair.

Old man truck with an old man topper on back,
what's not to luv? marx
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just got back from test driving the truck. Motor runs super smooth, the transmission shifts pretty smooth as well. I crawled under the truck and checked for signs of the infamous pump rub hole. Does not seem to be any holes in the area, which is a big plus!

Seller is a super nice guy, I offered him 11k cash and he accepted :surprise::surprise:

I am meeting with him tomorrow evening to exchange the cash and title. The truck isn't perfect, but to get the truck for $11,000 after a pretty encouraging shop inspection, I am pretty damn excited.

THANK YOU to you guys who helped figure out the LLZ situation, now ya'll are stuck with me and my new rig haha

Wetness at the rear is not a problem. It's when it's bad enough to leave a puddle/stain when it sits, but then I'd still have to think 'bout it before diving in to a repair.

Old man truck with an old man topper on back,
what's not to luv? marx
 

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Thats an excellent price. Glad it worked out for you. Regarding the pump rub, you wont see the hole until its too late. And even then its very hard to spot. Post pics when its finally in your driveway!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Meant to post a couple photos of the truck, but i've been out of town for a few days.

We ran around in the truck yesterday running some errands and i've already noticed a couple things that i'd like to improve:

1. the brake pedal is spongy as hell. It will stop when you need it too, but it takes a lot of pedal travel and pedal pressure to really get the brakes to grab.

2. The steering feels pretty stiff relative to what I was expecting. My 96 powerstroke steers like a dream compared to this 06 duramax. When pulling into parking spots and such, it takes a lot of effort to steer this big rig.

After doing some reading, it sounds like these 2 issues could both be improved by flushing the fluid in both systems. I think I will start by flushing the power steering fluid from the hydro boost like HookEm shows in his write up (which looks excellent). I am going to pop the tops on both reservoirs tonight and see what the fluid looks like. I am almost hoping it looks bad so that a fluid flush will help significantly. I hope these issues are not caused by a bigger problem.

Anyhow, here are a couple photos of the truck at the house yesterday! I am still excited, even with the steering and braking needing some work.





Thats an excellent price. Glad it worked out for you. Regarding the pump rub, you wont see the hole until its too late. And even then its very hard to spot. Post pics when its finally in your driveway!
 

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Hey guys, I currently own a 96 ford 7.3 4x4 supercab. Wife wants a baby soon and would like a newer truck with 4 doors for our road trips with the toy hauler. We live in Phoenix and tow a 6k lb toy hauler (can be around 8-10k lbs depending on what is loaded in it). We take a handful of road trips to the Glamis sand dunes every season, other than that, the truck would be a daily driver and occasionally tow a 7k lb boat to the lake.

I have come a cross an original owner 2006 chevy LT 2500 4x4 crew cab short bed. The truck looks reasonably clean for being 15 years old, white in color and has 220k miles. I believe it is the LBZ motor because the 8th digit of the Vin# is a '2'. Truck seems to be all stock. Owner is asking $15k...

I went to look at the truck and it has a fairly significant oil leak, owner said maybe a drop a day or so. He seems like decently honest guy and doesnt seem to be hiding anything that I can tell. Paint has a lot of chipping, he said he thinks the 2006 white duramax had an issue with this. I'm not too worried about the paint because I cant afford a new truck, and most of the significant paint damage is on the top of the cab anyhow. The truck interior seems well kept for its age as well.

He has offered to come down to $13k from his original asking price of $14k

I do not want to make a ton of horsepower or add crazy tuning. Maybe add tunes for improved MPG's while daily commuting and a towing mode at most. I just want a reliable tow rig for family road trips. I am perfectly fine making a couple small mods to further increase reliability.

Does this truck seem like a good fit for my family based on your guys knowledge?

thanks in advance, this is my first time in a Duramax forum!





that is a LOT or rust, looks like its been like that for a while too so its probably badly pitted as well. The oil leak may be nothing major, or it could be a problem. Its hard to say. As others have mentioned if its got this stuff noticeably wrong, what else are you not hearing about? If that leaks from the main seal though, thats going to be costly.

There is a common oil leak on the early trucks from the oil pan, just a slow seep which is what this sounds like but that does not mean you should not look into it further. Also that truck appears to have at least aftermarket exhaust on it, and it looks new relative to the truck so that raises some questions as well.

My gut is telling me to walk away from that truck unless the guy is willing to sell it for maybe 8-9K. Otherwise its too much of an unknown for me. You could easily have several thousand dollars of repairs to just the things you already know about on that truck.

If its the best you can find in a price range you can afford, i would take it to a reliable shop of YOUR choosing for an inspection before agreeing to buy it.

You could fix the roof yourself with rattle can and some glazing compound if you dont care how good it looks, but that does need to be addressed sooner than later or your going to end up with a permanent moon roof.

Other major things to check for would be:

Fuel in oil
Oil level (high is bad)
Trans fluid color (exhaust makes me think tuned, makes me think limped)
coolant color (dark is bad, soot is very bad)
blow by out the oil fill
lopeing / rough idle / surging idle
 

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Discussion Starter #17
J83,
thanks for the reply man. I appreciate the info. I had the truck inspected prior to buying it and it was at a shop of my choosing. The owner of the shop thought the truck was in pretty good shape outside of the paint. He even mentioned to the seller that he himself may be interested in the truck if my deal fell through. Although this doesnt mean the truck is perfect, a good inspection report seemed better than the alternative ( a poor inspection report). The owner of the shop also commented on how rare it is for a 2006 duramax to come into their shop completely bone stock. I did crawl around under the truck a lot when looking it over before buying and I didn't notice any signs of an aftermarket exhaust, but that certainly doesn't mean you are wrong. I'll have to check it out tomorrow when im working on the truck.

Yes, the paint on the roof of the cab is unsightly, and it's probably something I should address soon, I completely agree.

Thanks again for the list of things to check, I will look into each of those throughout the week and report back.

I just got done flushing the power steering fluid this evening. I just used regular old Prestone power steering fluid because it was clear and I wanted to be able to see when the fluid was coming out clear. I flushed out a full 2 quarts and she is steering better now. I also noticed the brakes feel a million times better after doing this. The pedal is no longer soft and squishy and the brakes grab much sooner with a lot less pressure needing be applied to the pedal. I am planning to flush the brake fluid and bleed the brakes later this week as well. I was very encouraged with the improvement after the power steering flush.

that is a LOT or rust, looks like its been like that for a while too so its probably badly pitted as well. The oil leak may be nothing major, or it could be a problem. Its hard to say. As others have mentioned if its got this stuff noticeably wrong, what else are you not hearing about? If that leaks from the main seal though, thats going to be costly.

There is a common oil leak on the early trucks from the oil pan, just a slow seep which is what this sounds like but that does not mean you should not look into it further. Also that truck appears to have at least aftermarket exhaust on it, and it looks new relative to the truck so that raises some questions as well.

My gut is telling me to walk away from that truck unless the guy is willing to sell it for maybe 8-9K. Otherwise its too much of an unknown for me. You could easily have several thousand dollars of repairs to just the things you already know about on that truck.

If its the best you can find in a price range you can afford, i would take it to a reliable shop of YOUR choosing for an inspection before agreeing to buy it.

You could fix the roof yourself with rattle can and some glazing compound if you dont care how good it looks, but that does need to be addressed sooner than later or your going to end up with a permanent moon roof.

Other major things to check for would be:

Fuel in oil
Oil level (high is bad)
Trans fluid color (exhaust makes me think tuned, makes me think limped)
coolant color (dark is bad, soot is very bad)
blow by out the oil fill
lopeing / rough idle / surging idle
 
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