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Discussion Starter #1
So I recently bought my 2004 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L, new to the diesel world, and have replaced my entire e-brake cables as well as the entire assembly. I live in MA and the inspection shop says it has to be able to rev 1.2K RPMs without moving. I’ve adjusted the e-brake spoke wheel to the point it’s almost always lightly there. She’ll hold 1.3k RPMs in reverse no issue, going forward she just wants to go after 1k RPM. Any suggestions on what may be the issue, or if this inspection station has no idea what they’re doing? Everything is new. Brand new brakes all the way around, wires were literally installed on Sunday.

As well as the previous owner gave me what he said is a ~$600 EGR delete kit, what’s the point & benefits to me doing that and should I?
 

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I have never heard of an inspection shop doing that. Search on here about the egr delete. Been talked about lots of times
 

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I've never heard of that either but I can see it happening. The thing is, you can't do that with a manual transmission and a lot depends on how tight the converter is and the gear ratios in the system. I think I'd be checking on the actual law.

If you just need to pass the inspection then get the brake drum wet and let it rust. It will hold like a bear for the first few applications after that.

If you really want it to work better then you will have to make sure the adjustments are all set to the limits. One thing you might be missing is the pedal adjustment. There are two things you can do.

First thing you can try is to pull the park brake pedal all of the way to the rear. There is an automatic pedal adjuster in the pedal mounting bracket that will take up slack in the cable when the pedal is pulled back. Then set the park brake and see if it feels better than it used to. If not, repeat this several times.

Note if the pedal seems to improve but then slips with a sort of grinding/ratcheting noise. If it does that you may need to replace the pedal assembly. It isn't very hard to do.

The next thing to try is to go under the truck on the driver's side, typically about half way between the rear wheel and the front of the bed. You will find a place where the front cable goes into a bracket that connects to the two rear brake cables.

Try pulling sideways on the cable. Pull hard. Watch how much movement there is both toward the front and in the two rear cables.

If the front cable pulls much at all it means that the park brake pedal assembly is bad and needs to be replaced.

If the rear cables move more than 1/4 inch then you need to turn the nut on the shaft at the rear of the front cable to shorten the cable and pull more on the rear cables. If one rear cable pulls more than the other it means you have a problem with the adjuster or operating mechanism on the looser cable.
 

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STOP WHAT YOUR DOIN, CAUSE IM ABOUT TO RUIN WHAT YOUR BEING TOLD ON HERE ^^^^^^^^^

before you go any further, have you referenced the exact specs that your state requires these inspection idiots to follow?! if not, I would recommend you do that before you go and start doing anything else!!!!

my money is betting on the inspection mech is taking you for a dumb ass and is trying to take your money for some bullshart made up state tolerance!

if in your research (because these regulations by law must be published and made available as public knowledge) you find that what this monkey-kanic is telling you to be correct, then I would recommend going back and readjusting things.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
STOP WHAT YOUR DOIN, CAUSE IM ABOUT TO RUIN WHAT YOUR BEING TOLD ON HERE ^^^^^^^^^

before you go any further, have you referenced the exact specs that your state requires these inspection idiots to follow?! if not, I would recommend you do that before you go and start doing anything else!!!!

my money is betting on the inspection mech is taking you for a dumb ass and is trying to take your money for some bullshart made up state tolerance!

if in your research (because these regulations by law must be published and made available as public knowledge) you find that what this monkey-kanic is telling you to be correct, then I would recommend going back and readjusting things.
It only states that it must be able to stop at a 20MPH speed. There’s no exact definition.

Did you replace the brake shoes?
Yes, the brake shoes, backing plate, assembly and lines are all brand new, installed on Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
STOP WHAT YOUR DOIN, CAUSE IM ABOUT TO RUIN WHAT YOUR BEING TOLD ON HERE ^^^^^^^^^

before you go any further, have you referenced the exact specs that your state requires these inspection idiots to follow?! if not, I would recommend you do that before you go and start doing anything else!!!!

my money is betting on the inspection mech is taking you for a dumb ass and is trying to take your money for some bullshart made up state tolerance!

if in your research (because these regulations by law must be published and made available as public knowledge) you find that what this monkey-kanic is telling you to be correct, then I would recommend going back and readjusting things.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
STOP WHAT YOUR DOIN, CAUSE IM ABOUT TO RUIN WHAT YOUR BEING TOLD ON HERE ^^^^^^^^^

before you go any further, have you referenced the exact specs that your state requires these inspection idiots to follow?! if not, I would recommend you do that before you go and start doing anything else!!!!

my money is betting on the inspection mech is taking you for a dumb ass and is trying to take your money for some bullshart made up state tolerance!

if in your research (because these regulations by law must be published and made available as public knowledge) you find that what this monkey-kanic is telling you to be correct, then I would recommend going back and readjusting things.
https://imgur.com/O45PKwD (can't seem to edit any of my prior posts. My apologies
 
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