Do NOT torque the nut to 200lb ft, there is a crush sleeve in there and if you torque the nut to much it crush to far and ruin the bearings. Use red loc tite on the threads and tighten until it felt like it did befor you took it apart. I've seen guys tighten down the yoke so much they had to get a new axle.
You'll need a a special torque wrench to check the lb ft resistance on the bearing. For what your doing I would not worry about it unless you plan on taking the ring gear out.
Ok here is how to do this. You will need a new crush sleeve if you are replacing the yoke. If you are doing just the seal you can reuse the old one. Get a dial type torque wrench to measure rolling resistance. You read it while you are turning it, not right off the bat, it takes more torque to start then to keep it going. get a big pipe wrench to hold the yoke and the handle against the ground. Tighten the pinion nut a little at a time it doesn't take much to over do it and crush the sleeve too far.
What's the difference if he's swamping out a yoke or a pinion seal? You'll have to take the hole rear end apart to put a new crush sleeve in it. He will not be able to check rotational torque with it all together. I build differentials, he does not need a new crush sleeve. Just don't crush it any farther then it is.
just get punch and a hammer and use the punch to make a mark on the pinion nut and pinion gear. Then when you are finished replacing the yolk, tighten the nut back to where your mark is on the pinion. Simple as that
So today i wnet to help my freind with the truck and it didnt take us long to figure out we where going to need an impact gun to get the nut loose, but we did notice there is alot of play in the gears. You can turn the yoke about a 1/4 to 1/2 an inch by hand. I guessing this is not normal right?
I just had to replace my pinion yoke about a month ago. getting the nut off was the easy part.
I used a breaker bar with the right sized socket and a big cheater pipe. the hard part was getting the old yoke to come off the splines. I did not have the correct puller to do this and two of the four u joint strap ears were broken off. I managed to get it off finally with a slide hammer.
before i took off the old yoke, I measured the thread that was left outside the nut. I just tightened the new yoke back down till I hit that measurement. Happily the nut was also tight at that point. I also got to install a new driveshaft at the same time and I can report no problems with either.