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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 06 ccsb 4x4 that i just replaced all of the steering components on. I used all ac delco parts and a blue top steering box. Im having a problem with the pitman arm nut coming loose on the centerlink. Twice I've climbed under there and found it finger tight. The nut it came with doesnt have a lock washer or anything, its just one of those nuts with the stake marks on it. Anyone had this problem? I dont wanna to weld it lol and I'm scared to drill it and put a cotter pin through it because I'm not sure if thatd weaken it.
 

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2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
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Red Loctite is my friend...

Send a pic of the nut and arm.
 

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2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
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time for “what if”... and only guessing here... don’t waste a lot of time... take to an alignment shop to get properly secured. Then let us know the result.

I say the above because with “new parts” there is no guarantee they are correct for the rod you are connecting and we tend to value our life, too, so don’t

Looks like the nut is covering all the threads on the ball joint. That is all the nut needs to grab.

Is the ball joint fully seated in the link?

The “lower part” of the joint should not move inside the link when tight. The joint must allow twisting.

If the joint doesn’t seat properly in the link socket, the nut may be loosened as you drive.

Did you “impact” the nut on?

What torque spec did you tighten to?

When tightening the nut does the “bolt” turn? (Will need a box wrench to watch... mark the bolt to reference so you know.)

Notice the bolt has a place for another wrench. That is to hold the ball in the link socket while you torque.

The nut must have been “distorted” enough to grab the pivot bolt.. since it is loose, probably not the right nut, or defective... (see above suggestion for an alignment shop visit...)

A quick heck for the nut distortion.. remove the nut.. put it on upside down... if you can put it on, it is not grabbing the bolt and is defective, the wrong one for the ball joint bolt, or has been damaged. For instance, if the nut threads or the bolt threads have been distorted, the clamp force will not be sufficient. Re-pegging/distorting the nut is NoT advised in this situation.

be careful!!!

Here is one link outside this forum where you may find what you are after for torques..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
time for “what if”... and only guessing here... don’t waste a lot of time... take to an alignment shop to get properly secured. Then let us know the result.

I say the above because with “new parts” there is no guarantee they are correct for the rod you are connecting and we tend to value our life, too, so don’t

Looks like the nut is covering all the threads on the ball joint. That is all the nut needs to grab.

Is the ball joint fully seated in the link?

The “lower part” of the joint should not move inside the link when tight. The joint must allow twisting.

If the joint doesn’t seat properly in the link socket, the nut may be loosened as you drive.

Did you “impact” the nut on?

What torque spec did you tighten to?

When tightening the nut does the “bolt” turn? (Will need a box wrench to watch... mark the bolt to reference so you know.)

Notice the bolt has a place for another wrench. That is to hold the ball in the link socket while you torque.

The nut must have been “distorted” enough to grab the pivot bolt.. since it is loose, probably not the right nut, or defective... (see above suggestion for an alignment shop visit...)

A quick heck for the nut distortion.. remove the nut.. put it on upside down... if you can put it on, it is not grabbing the bolt and is defective, the wrong one for the ball joint bolt, or has been damaged. For instance, if the nut threads or the bolt threads have been distorted, the clamp force will not be sufficient. Re-pegging/distorting the nut is NoT advised in this situation.

be careful!!!

Here is one link outside this forum where you may find what you are after for torques..
Thank you for the response. I didnt see the torque specs for the pitman arm on that link. I didnt use an impact, but i did use a 1/2" breaker bar. I also checked when i tightened it to be sure the joint wasnt spinning with the nut as i tightened. I will flip the nut over and see if it catches, and if it doesn't I'll assume i found my issue. I would also assume it is the correct nut since it came with the pitman arm from gm. It is fully seated (as far as i can tell) because i saw it pull it down and compress the boot as i tightened it
 

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Never mind - you already did this.
You need to hold the hex shaft inside the nut, then turn the nut to correct torque. I THINK the problem is that the nut is not really being tightened enough.
 

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I would just buy a crush nut and torque it down, and use lock tight. If that even does come loose its going to be all bad. Check it for a while even if it seems fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would just buy a crush nut and torque it down, and use lock tight. If that even does come loose its going to be all bad. Check it for a while even if it seems fixed.
I'm going to flip the nut over like was suggested ( i feel like its going to thread right on). After that, I'm going to replace the nut and possibly lock tite. Ive been working all week and the truck sits most of the time so i haven't been in a hurry
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I believe all mine have always had a pin and threads showing. Something doesn't seem right
Mine has almost 4 threads showing when its tight. As far as a cotter pin or something, i wish it had one, but like i said this is an OEM pitman arm and it doesnt
 

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bad post on my part
 
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