Red Loctite is my friend...

Send a pic of the nut and arm.

 

Red Loctite is my friend...

Send a pic of the nut and arm.

This is the best i have. I screenshoted a video i took of the nut being loose. Loctite is a good idea

 

time for “what if”... and only guessing here... don’t waste a lot of time... take to an alignment shop to get properly secured. Then let us know the result.

I say the above because with “new parts” there is no guarantee they are correct for the rod you are connecting and we tend to value our life, too, so don’t

Looks like the nut is covering all the threads on the ball joint. That is all the nut needs to grab.

Is the ball joint fully seated in the link?

The “lower part” of the joint should not move inside the link when tight. The joint must allow twisting.

If the joint doesn’t seat properly in the link socket, the nut may be loosened as you drive.

Did you “impact” the nut on?

What torque spec did you tighten to?

When tightening the nut does the “bolt” turn? (Will need a box wrench to watch... mark the bolt to reference so you know.)

Notice the bolt has a place for another wrench. That is to hold the ball in the link socket while you torque.

The nut must have been “distorted” enough to grab the pivot bolt.. since it is loose, probably not the right nut, or defective... (see above suggestion for an alignment shop visit...)

A quick heck for the nut distortion.. remove the nut.. put it on upside down... if you can put it on, it is not grabbing the bolt and is defective, the wrong one for the ball joint bolt, or has been damaged. For instance, if the nut threads or the bolt threads have been distorted, the clamp force will not be sufficient. Re-pegging/distorting the nut is NoT advised in this situation.

be careful!!!

Here is one link outside this forum where you may find what you are after for torques..

Front Suspension Torque Specs?

Looked around and found lots of different answers? Anyone know the specs for UCA, LCA, Balljoints and Tie rods? 2016 2500HD 6.0

www.gm-trucks.com

 

time for “what if”... and only guessing here... don’t waste a lot of time... take to an alignment shop to get properly secured. Then let us know the result.

I say the above because with “new parts” there is no guarantee they are correct for the rod you are connecting and we tend to value our life, too, so don’t

Looks like the nut is covering all the threads on the ball joint. That is all the nut needs to grab.

Is the ball joint fully seated in the link?

The “lower part” of the joint should not move inside the link when tight. The joint must allow twisting.

If the joint doesn’t seat properly in the link socket, the nut may be loosened as you drive.

Did you “impact” the nut on?

What torque spec did you tighten to?

When tightening the nut does the “bolt” turn? (Will need a box wrench to watch... mark the bolt to reference so you know.)

Notice the bolt has a place for another wrench. That is to hold the ball in the link socket while you torque.

The nut must have been “distorted” enough to grab the pivot bolt.. since it is loose, probably not the right nut, or defective... (see above suggestion for an alignment shop visit...)

A quick heck for the nut distortion.. remove the nut.. put it on upside down... if you can put it on, it is not grabbing the bolt and is defective, the wrong one for the ball joint bolt, or has been damaged. For instance, if the nut threads or the bolt threads have been distorted, the clamp force will not be sufficient. Re-pegging/distorting the nut is NoT advised in this situation.

be careful!!!

Here is one link outside this forum where you may find what you are after for torques..

Front Suspension Torque Specs?

Looked around and found lots of different answers? Anyone know the specs for UCA, LCA, Balljoints and Tie rods? 2016 2500HD 6.0

www.gm-trucks.com

Thank you for the response. I didnt see the torque specs for the pitman arm on that link. I didnt use an impact, but i did use a 1/2" breaker bar. I also checked when i tightened it to be sure the joint wasnt spinning with the nut as i tightened. I will flip the nut over and see if it catches, and if it doesn't I'll assume i found my issue. I would also assume it is the correct nut since it came with the pitman arm from gm. It is fully seated (as far as i can tell) because i saw it pull it down and compress the boot as i tightened it

 

Never mind - you already did this.
You need to hold the hex shaft inside the nut, then turn the nut to correct torque. I THINK the problem is that the nut is not really being tightened enough.

 

dont use a impact you will end up spinning the stud and you wont ever come close to getting it tight enough

 

I would just buy a crush nut and torque it down, and use lock tight. If that even does come loose its going to be all bad. Check it for a while even if it seems fixed.

 

I'm going to flip the nut over like was suggested ( i feel like its going to thread right on). After that, I'm going to replace the nut and possibly lock tite. Ive been working all week and the truck sits most of the time so i haven't been in a hurry

 

I believe all mine have always had a pin and threads showing. Something doesn't seem right

 

Mine has almost 4 threads showing when its tight. As far as a cotter pin or something, i wish it had one, but like i said this is an OEM pitman arm and it doesnt

 

bad post on my part

 

Update..put loctite on it about a month ago and it hasnt moved since.

 

Thx for update! That verifies there is a problem with retainer or the shaft… or the connecting arm is too big so can’t get a full “purchase” to get it to hold.