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2005 Duramax LT 2500 4wd CCSB

I am having a problem with the power seats not working. I will start with what i have fixed. I pulled up the carpet and fixed the tear in the harness below the parking brake, i zip tied the harness away from the track under the driver seat so it doesnt rub. That was causing the drivers seat, power windows on both sides and heated seats to not work.

Now the drivers power seat (power seat switches, memory module, and heated seat) to not work and the heated seat on the passenger side as well doesn't work. The power to the switch to move the seat around on the passenger side works though, I was wondering if i should replace the BCM, i'm not too sure what controls those things.

Thank you for helping out with this.

Jason
 

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The fuses, relays and circuit breakers that control most of that stuff are in the MBEC (Mid Bussed Electrical Center) located above the brake pedal. I would look there first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also something to add to this is, its intermittent. When it happens, it stays not working for awhile, then all of a sudden it will work again. Ill check out the fuses (MBEC) tomorrow. Thank you for the help. Ill let you know what i can see.
 

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The prob may reside in the DDM. Your harness rub issues may have scrambled some code in it.
(driver door module, under and part of the main window switch set).

Edit;
Could be worse....you could have this goin' on while the A/C is set @68*. Downerrr

 

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The prob may reside in the DDM. Your harness rub issues may have scrambled some code in it.
(driver door module, under and part of the main window switch set).

Edit;
Could be worse....you could have this goin' on while the A/C is set @68*. Downerrr

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNfEht0y_eQ


Man I had this same issue with both a 2006 Sierra 1500 and a '05 Sierra 2500. Same exact thing. Frustrating beyond words when it's 99 degrees outside.


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Discussion Starter #8
So where is the Drivers Door module located? I can only see the Body Control Module under the dash.
 

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LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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See post #5...it's on the bottom of the window switch assembly, driver's door.

Here you see 4 different harnesses that run thru it, plus the 5th one, which appears to be a data com line with a large metal keeper to flip back for removal...similar to your main harness up under the hood.

Edit;
Notice on the far right, a screw head is visible. You'll need to remove the door panel to remove that screw (7mm, IIRC), then pry at the rear and it pops out (like the dash bezel does) from the arm rest in the door panel.
 

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See post #5...it's on the bottom of the window switch assembly, driver's door.

Here you see 4 different harnesses that run thru it, plus the 5th one, which appears to be a data com line with a large metal keeper to flip back for removal...similar to your main harness up under the hood.

Edit;
Notice on the far right, a screw head is visible. You'll need to remove the door panel to remove that screw (7mm, IIRC), then pry at the rear and it pops out (like the dash bezel does) from the arm rest in the door panel.


Hook is this a removal for all of these models? I have a ccsb 07 classic. Or do I need to pull the whole door panel off to get at that?


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Those pics are of an '07 classic, LT3 (all the goodies).

The whole window/mirror switch DDM assembly will pop out from the top, with the door panel in place....if it wasn't for that pesky 7mm screw seen in the above posts.

Removing the panel is easy (there's hue-Toob vids on it); pop out the triangle up top corner, pop out the manual door lock slide, pop out the sleeve around the open handle, pop out the two round screw covers fore and aft edge of the panel (which expose two screws), <remove those two and the third behind the manual door lock slide, grab and slide up off the hook at top.

With it loose (I pre-position a creeper stool with a pillow on it as a resting spot), reach around and under with a nutdriver (7mm) to remove that 1 screw. Now hang the door panel back on the lip at top, and pop out the DDM so you can easily release all 5 of those harness plugs.

I should do this today and try and kill the demons. Picked up some contact cleaner a while back to try on it.
If that ^ doesn't exorcise the beast, then it's on to the seat harness, unplugging both heater elements from the main seat plug.

I have very efficient metabolism....and along with Central TX weather, I could care less about having a seat heater or not. Especially after experiencing it running uncontrolled in the Summer.
 

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Found a damaged wire in the harness under my seat.
The stealer charged me $100 bucks to install a crimp cap


The seat still shorts out now and again but if I flick my new found harness with my hand it works again. I am going to cut the plug off and install something different just not sure what yet.


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Well i found that fuse by the brake pedal, tried that truck and no luck with the fix. I guess I will try taking the door panel off tonight
If the issue is intermittent I doubt it is a fuse. They do not heal themselves. Possible a connector in a fuse box but not the fuse itself.
 

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I read on another thread (that sent me to here for other ways to fix it) that said the fuse under there when pulled for several seconds it lets the module reset. its not the actual fuse that is bad it is an issue with the module and this resets it. Several people did that and fixed this exact problem. others it did not fix the issue.

The symptoms: driver seat has no power, passenger seat does. neither seat have heat working. problem occasionally goes away for short periods of time.
Sounds like an easier/quicker solution than pulling both negative battery cables!
 
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