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Discussion Starter #1
2005 GMC 5500 Duramax.........I need to prime the fuel filter. Is there a video on doing that...???
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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Push button 'til firm, open bleeder-let displaced air escape, close bleeder, pump again 'til firm....start 'er up.

Have you just changed the filter?
Lost prime?
Out of fuel?

Edit;
oops....MD truck. Is their filter head different from our HDs?

Nah....same procedure.
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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If you did run it out of fuel, it may take several priming attempts to get all of the trapped air out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a section of this forum or any forum that deals with GMC 5500 size trucks...???

It seems that everything (photos and videos) is smaller Duramax trucks, and things are in vastly different locations. I had a You-Tube video on priming the fuel filter on 2005 GMC 5500. Can't find it now.
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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I pulled up a pic of your filter head....the tubes are at different angles, but the config is the same with a push button primer on top.
 

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Yes.........that is the easier part. The harder part is getting access to the bleed. I seem to remember the last time that I needed to remove some plumbing. I have to back pack the tools to the truck in the Alaska wilderness, so it helps if I am fairly clear about the nature of the project. Not quite like working in a well lighted and heated garage.
 

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I pulled up a pic of your filter head....the tubes are at different angles, but the config is the same with a push button primer on top.
Where is the vent to bleed the air out. Does it require a open end wrench or an allen wrench......???

Sorry to be needing help. I deeply appreciate the help. Is there a link to the photo you found.
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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Here's a pic of a replacement bleeder screw/bolt;
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2721434&cc=3295615&jsn=460

It should be to the side of the primer button, on top.
As you can see in the pic, it seals with an O-ring, so it only needs to be finger tight. The O-ring will actually seal before the bleeder bottoms out on the threads. And when opening to bleed the air, it may take several turns before the O-ring seal opens and air comes out.

Many times that plastic gets stripped, because it gets tightened like a lug nut.
Finger tight is all that's needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks.........does the air vent need to be closed while pushing the priming button......or can it remain open.......???


Here's a pic of a replacement bleeder screw/bolt;
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2721434&cc=3295615&jsn=460

It should be to the side of the primer button, on top.
As you can see in the pic, it seals with an O-ring, so it only needs to be finger tight. The O-ring will actually seal before the bleeder bottoms out on the threads. And when opening to bleed the air, it may take several turns before the O-ring seal opens and air comes out.

Many times that plastic gets stripped, because it gets tightened like a lug nut.
Finger tight is all that's needed.
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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I leave it closed, pump 'til firm, open bleeder to let displaced air vent out, close bleeder, pump 'til firm, start engine.

This ^is just for replacing the filter. If you've run out of fuel, it may take more pump/bleed cycles to fully prime ready to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I leave it closed, pump 'til firm, open bleeder to let displaced air vent out, close bleeder, pump 'til firm, start engine.

This ^is just for replacing the filter. If you've run out of fuel, it may take more pump/bleed cycles to fully prime ready to start.
Thanks........appreciate the help. Now all I need is a step ladder to climb up to the fuel filter.......:smile2:
 
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