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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as the title says, I have some problems with my truck. It's an 02 with 195K miles, and I just noticed that I have some blue smoke at idle after I run the freeway for a while. I have also seen it in the morning after I warm it up and back out of the driveway.

Next is the surging, I think this is probably the FPR. Which could also from what I have read, be part of the smoke problem.

Then I have a vibration when coming to a stop. It happens around 3-5mph, and while in park, I can get some vibration at 700-800RPM...

So, can I get some help on this? I will try to fight one at a time.

Thanks in advance,
 

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1st, When is the last time you changed the fuel filter?

If you smell the exhaust what does it smell like, does it smell like raw fuel and kind of burn your eyes?
 

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When you are out driving, and after it's warmed up to temperature, stop
long enough to let it idle for 3-4 minutes. Get out and walk around to the
tailpipe and look at the color of the exhaust fumes. It's either a Blackish
Smoke (RICH with Diesel Droplets, burns your eyes, and easily to sniff
with your nose), or it's a light Blue haze of Oil Smoke or a White Smoke.

Mine was originally Black, RICH, a Diesel Droplet Mist, but after cleaning with
several cleaners, it turned to a Blue oil smoke, because of the Faulty Install
of the O-Rings at the Factory.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...-rates-light-blue-smoke-idle.html#post7040098

What are your Balance Rates, and What is your Fuel Filter Change Interval?
Max Interval for OEM Filter is typical 15 to 20K (3-4 Oil Changes.)

Be sure to keep an eye on your Oil level, making sure Diesel isn't filling your crankcase.
You can put a spot of oil on a White paper towel and look for an outer ring of Diesel
that is larger than the brown oil ring.

New Injectors from LDS fixed my problem.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
1st, When is the last time you changed the fuel filter?

I just serviced the truck with a new fuel filter and oil change two weeks ago. However, the smoke was there before the the filter change.

If you smell the exhaust what does it smell like, does it smell like raw fuel and kind of burn your eyes?
The exhaust does not smell like oil or fuel. I have not noticed any oil consumption at this time.

When you are out driving, and after it's warmed up to temperature, stop
long enough to let it idle for 3-4 minutes. Get out and walk around to the
tailpipe and look at the color of the exhaust fumes. It's either a Blackish
Smoke (RICH with Diesel Droplets, burns your eyes, and easily to sniff
with your nose), or it's a light Blue haze of Oil Smoke or a White Smoke.

The smoke I see is blue to white. I just haven't been able to narrow it down to a certain thing just yet.

Mine was originally Black, RICH, a Diesel Droplet Mist, but after cleaning with
several cleaners, it turned to a Blue oil smoke, because of the Faulty Install
of the O-Rings at the Factory.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...-rates-light-blue-smoke-idle.html#post7040098

What are your Balance Rates, and What is your Fuel Filter Change Interval?
Max Interval for OEM Filter is typical 15 to 20K (3-4 Oil Changes.)

Have not checked balance rates yet. I guess that is next on my list.

Mine is about the same.

Be sure to keep an eye on your Oil level, making sure Diesel isn't filling your crankcase.
You can put a spot of oil on a White paper towel and look for an outer ring of Diesel
that is larger than the brown oil ring.

New Injectors from LDS fixed my problem.

I really hope that is not the problem....... HAHA

Larry
 

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Sometimes long idle times cause more smoke from unburnt fuel. Also in your case an injector may be "leaking" a bit more fuel than it should and after long periods of maintained RPM (on the Freeway) it might "stick" open for a while even when the rpm's change to an idle.

So I personally think it sounds like an injector issue. You should read your injector balance rates, and then try the DIY injector cleaning process to see if they free up and get better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have also been using Diesel kleen from the gray bottle. I am looking into checking the balance rates. I have the OBD fusion that I have never used. I am looking to see if it will check the rates.

Would something like Lucas be a better additive at this point?

Could the fact that the FPR might be bad cause some of this issue?

Thanks,
 

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The Lucas treatment is horrible on these trucks. Great on gassers but not the Duramax. Keep using the recommended dose of DK. And after you read your rates, do the injector cleaning. There is a "How To" in the forum section for this procedure.

A bad FPR can cause surging and possibly some light smoke, but its over $100 and isn't the easiest to get to. I'd hate to encourage anyone to throw parts at the truck when it can be diagnosed. (Although most shops/dealers diagnose by throwing parts at a vehicle)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, I finally got the balance rates...... Not sure I like what I see...

This is idle on a 4 hour drive home about mid way


This is in drive at the same point


This is this morning, cold start and idle


This is in drive this morning


If I read right, it looks like #1 / #7 / #8.... But I will let you experts tell me.:(:(:(:(:(:(
 

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The cold start rates aren't proper temp, so we cant focus on them too much because they always look worse. The long trip rates are telling me that you have a cylinder over fueling slightly and one under fueling. Hard to tell if they are both bad or if the ECM is trying to make up for one issue or the other.

So now try the cleaning and read them again. It will help me to see what the cylinder is and the severity of the issue.
 

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I concur with Aaron. But the values are not way out of whack. Before you do all of these things, I just want to know a little bit more. When was your last oil change and with what weight? Now I know you said "you just noticed the smoke", but think real hard if you can ever remember seeing it smoke a little while idling.

Mine is an 03 and mine smokes blue. It's not the greatest thing, but it happened as soon as I changed the oil from 15-40 to 5-40. While the 5-40 is letting the engine crank easier in the cold, I am probably burning more oil because A. the oil is thinner. And B. The oil is making its way past the valve seals and getting burned out. When my truck sits idle, its a very slight haze of blue. Once I hit the slim pedal, I get a cloud. If I keep my foot on it, it clears up until enough oil makes its way past the seals again.

So if its been a while since your last oil change, do that first. A. you need to do it anyways and B. it may clear the problem. If that doesn't solve it, then I would run the injection cleaning.

I would do what Aaron says and follow the DIY Injector Cleaning procedure. If you do a search on the Tube... there is a video of how this is done. The P/N to the GM cleaner can be found in the link... http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/83493-how-diy-injector-cleaning.html

SO when you get a chance, get back to us with some more info.
 

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I agree with doin the diy injector cleaning, it's cheap and you can sit and drink beer while "working" on your truck....the wife can't argue with results:cool:
 

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The reason the cleaning is important is because I want to see if the positive number comes down or if the negative number comes up or gets worse. If the positive number comes down and the negative number comes up that would indicate that the cylinder with the positive rate was clogged and the high negative rate was intentionally getting worse to balance the system. If the positive rate doesn't change or gets worse and the negative rate gets worse, it would indicate that your cylinder with the negative number is leaking and causing the smoke. A lot of factors Im looking for with the cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I concur with Aaron. But the values are not way out of whack. Before you do all of these things, I just want to know a little bit more. When was your last oil change and with what weight? Now I know you said "you just noticed the smoke", but think real hard if you can ever remember seeing it smoke a little while idling.

Mine is an 03 and mine smokes blue. It's not the greatest thing, but it happened as soon as I changed the oil from 15-40 to 5-40. While the 5-40 is letting the engine crank easier in the cold, I am probably burning more oil because A. the oil is thinner. And B. The oil is making its way past the valve seals and getting burned out. When my truck sits idle, its a very slight haze of blue. Once I hit the slim pedal, I get a cloud. If I keep my foot on it, it clears up until enough oil makes its way past the seals again.

So if its been a while since your last oil change, do that first. A. you need to do it anyways and B. it may clear the problem. If that doesn't solve it, then I would run the injection cleaning.

I would do what Aaron says and follow the DIY Injector Cleaning procedure. If you do a search on the Tube... there is a video of how this is done. The P/N to the GM cleaner can be found in the link... http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/83493-how-diy-injector-cleaning.html

SO when you get a chance, get back to us with some more info.
Ok, so the oil change and fuel filter change was done about 1500 miles ago. Using Shell Rotella 15w-40. Fuel filter is the Wix, and I know everyone hates those, but I bought a few at a time and using them up. Already have the nicktane filters, just need to order the adapter now.

I'll read up on the cleaner and get that done. Got to get ready for a trip in June.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I finally got some time to run the cleaner through it. Here are the numbers that I took at the last of the cleaner and diesel going through.
At Idle


In Drive


Drove it after that, and I still had some smoke after driving it for a few. It also surged during the whole time that it was running during the cleaner treatment.
 

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So the #1 cylinder seems to be an issue. It is not just a simple clog, it may be a lower compression cylinder. It could be as simple as a sticking valve. But if it was from a clog it would have gotten much better after the cleaning. IF it is from a clog, it's metal or something that will not break down much. I think the higher negative rate is compensating to balance it out, or it's leaking a bit (but it's not the main cause of the issue your experiencing).

Do a compression test next to see if that positive rate is indeed low compression related. If it's not you will be in need of injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So a little update today. Called LDS and ordered a new FPR, as I was having surging issues before a lift pump was installed and before I ever ran any additive. Since then, it helped some, but now it is back to the original surging constantly. So I should get that on this week if it comes in.
I went out a few minutes ago and ran balance rates. Here it is in Idle


Here it is in Drive


I am thinking that injectors are in my near future at this point, as it looks like #7 is now stepping up to the plate to cause issues.

Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Looking at the pictures of the balance rates, your number 7 is fine, but your number 1 is consistently high. I forget the firing order off the top of my head, but I think 1-7 cyl are close together in the firing order. Looks like cyl 1 injector is putting out too much and Cyl 7 is compensating with trimming fuel. The FPR should solve the surging problem, but the injector is another beast.

In my last post, I thought I had an "oil too thin" problem. But my blue smoke problem has something to do with ambient temperature. Anything lower than 50*, it smokes. Over 55* it doesn't. Very weird, but you're narrowing your problem which is good. Keep us updated.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Firing order is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

It's pretty obvious that 2 and 8 are intentionally balancing 1 and 7. I believe that 1 is definitely cogged or has low compression, and 7 is leaking slightly. I'm sorry to say that they are most likely your next investment for the truck. The good thing is that they are both on the passenger side, so if you needed to only do one bank of injectors (as far as finances go) it would still take care of your worst injectors.

I personally would still check that #1 cylinder for compression to make sure it's not low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Aaron,
Thanks for letting me know what the firing order and which side they are on. If I had opted to do one side, I would have done the wrong one. HAHA

I'll go get the compression tester tomorrow and do the test this weekend. If it is a stuck valve or something like that, what would be the best approach to getting that fixed.

So, if it is injectors, then can you PM me a price for all 8 and the install kit that I would need? Of course, I am gonna hate to open it, but I need to get this thing fixed as we have a trip to Florida pulling the camper in June.

Thanks,
 

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Aaron,
Thanks for letting me know what the firing order and which side they are on. If I had opted to do one side, I would have done the wrong one. HAHA

I'll go get the compression tester tomorrow and do the test this weekend. If it is a stuck valve or something like that, what would be the best approach to getting that fixed.

So, if it is injectors, then can you PM me a price for all 8 and the install kit that I would need? Of course, I am gonna hate to open it, but I need to get this thing fixed as we have a trip to Florida pulling the camper in June.

Thanks,
I hope it's not a compression issue, but it is good to know of that is a contributor to the bad balance rate. If it's low on compression (compared to the others) then you will need to remove the valve cover on the passenger side and check the valves for proper clearance. But we will cross that bridge when you get there.

I will give you a price for the injectors and install kit in a PM.
 
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