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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought a used truck last week from a kid in town, and I think he did one two many burnouts with it, so know I'm trying to decide if it is worth rebuilding the whole rear end ( bearings, sun gears ) or if I should just swap it out with another rear end. I found a few on the internet back home one is a 14 bolt- 6 bolt hub out of 91 half ton and the other one is out of a 97 tahoe that has that gov lock locker in it. I'm not familiar with the gov lock, and I wonder how much work it will be to put that 14 bolt in, if I'm going to have to shorten my drive shaft or put a different yoke on it so the ujoint will fit. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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You won't want either of those rear ends. This is a 3/4 ton truck, you need 3/4 ton axles. A 14 bolt would be better than the 10 bolt out of a tahoe, but you really need to get the correct axle if you're going to replace it. It's an AAM 11.5" rear end, 8 lugs not 6! Thats what you need to get. Those will both probably have drum brakes in the rear, which you do NOT want on a truck this heavy. Not to mention you'd probably break either the first time you got on the gas hard.

Either rebuild yours or get a correct replacement. Don't try and half ass it or it will definitely come back to bite you in this case, for sure!
 

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Ok, wait a second, are you talking about the half ton in your sig or your dmax? You don't say which. If you're talking about the half ton, then either will work fine. I'd go with the 14 bolt if you can swing it. I'm pretty sure it's a direct bolt in except for the shock mounts. I think it will be the same for the tahoe rear end too, I think the shock mounts are different from the trucks to the tahoes, so either way you'd have to fab up some new ones. But as long as the gear ratio is the same, either should work I think. Also, you'll have to get the park brake cable out which is a huge PITA!!! I just cut mine when I swapped in a new rear end on my 92, it was sunday and I couldn't go buy the tool to take it out, and I never use it anyway.

Also make sure you pull the cover on the rear end before you buy it. Don't want to wind up with something thats totally shot. And if you decide to swap rear ends do yourself a favor and start spraying EVERY bolt with penetrating oil about a week ahead of time! Ask me how I know... 8' cheater bar on the U bolts, and I snapped all but two of them :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm sorry I did forget to mention that rear end is going in my half ton. Brain fart.
 

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14 bolt all the way you could just weld it for a cheap posi
 

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I swapped a the 14 bolt semi floating into an 84 halfton chevy a few years back. Mine was from a heavy 3/4 from the 70's so direct bolt in. It was an ok axle, but it kept giving me problems. I was rough on it and the guy who had it befor me was even rougher. The bolt that holds the shaft, that the spider gears run on, kept breaking and alowing the shaft to slide out until it would smash into the pinion gear. I just kept replacing that bolt and shaft, but I believe i had different problems. After the 3rd time in 5 years, I just replaced the whole axle. Like i said, I was rough on it. The guys at the GM dealership, where I had to buy the parts because no one else sold them, said I was the only one they have ever heard of with this problem. Should be a good axle for a 1/2 work truck.
 

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seriously? What is this a demo-derby car?

Welding spider gears for a "street" use vehicle is not a good idea.
I agree with that done it before and it lasted about three months then my tire atached to part of my axle passed me going down the road about 50mph. Not fun!!!:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hey guys, i looked at a few different rear ends today, and i decided to rebuild the one in my truck, that way i know what i have, and i know it's done the right way. thanks for the info. this is one helluva a good site.
 
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