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Discussion Starter #1
Q for anybody who has the turbo brake activated for towing:

When on a descent, does the braking action of the turbo brake cause the brake controller to activate the trailer brakes (because of the accelerometer in the brake controller)?

I currently have the Prodigy 3p controller. I plan to turn on my turbo brake via the mod (or with a tune) as I've just bought a 10k lb trailer.

I'm considering switching to the DirecLink brake controller from Tuson because that controller is connected directly to the truck's computer, and would only apply trailer brakes when I actually apply the truck brakes with my foot.

I'm concerned that the combination turbo brake and additional trailer braking at the same time may increase the risk of trailer lockup.

Thanks,
Rick
2005 Yukon XL 2500 with 2006 LBZ/Allison drivetrain
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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Two different systems.
Well, with T/H engaged....3 different items to slow the load down;
Grade braking
Turbo braking
P3
All working in unison, and in that order. The P3 being last to take up the slack, as the other two are working before you ever have to hit the brakes.

With your swap conversion, did you also move over the LBZ's brake system?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually the controller is a P2.

Yes, the brakes were included in the swap. Everything that makes the truck go/stop is LBZ/Allison.

Isn't the P2 ignorant as to whether I have my foot on the brake pedal, and the accelerometer only senses that the controller is slowing, and how much? Or does the pedal need to be at least a little pressed for the P2 to actually do anything?

My concern is that the P2 wouldn't necessarily be last - it would apply brakes as soon as it felt the rig slowing.
 

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No.
Initial controller activation trigger is the 3rd brake light circuit. After that, it's a variable output to the trailer brakes based on G-force detected. Touch the brakes, not much output. Press harder and output increases.
If the grade braking and turbo brake are sufficient to slow you, you don't hit the brake pedal. And when you do, it's much less pressure applied and the controller detects that and lessens output.

If you're trailer brakes are adjusted properly and you have the controller dialed in per the instructions, using the output dial and manual switch, it's all a seamless activation you don't think about.
 

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If you have your controller adjusted for the trailer/weight shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Not to hijack, bUt I need to get a brake controller. Leaning toward the Tekonsha p2 or p3.

Looking to get a used airstream travel trailer in the 7300 lb range. 25鈥

What are the differences in the p2 and p3?
 

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Not to hijack, bUt I need to get a brake controller. Leaning toward the Tekonsha p2 or p3.

Looking to get a used airstream travel trailer in the 7300 lb range. 25鈥

What are the differences in the p2 and p3?
You cannot hijack a thread that is over a year since the last post.

Tekonsha P3...........https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html

P2.........................https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html

Look at the Power Boost for Heavy Duty Towing under the P2 description
 

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What are the differences in the p2 and p3?
IIRC, the P3 handles EOH brakes, which your Airstream probably doesn't have.
 

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LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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Shouldn't be.
The links in post 7 are the same, P3.

The P3 is about $30-$50 more than the P2, which is under $100.
 

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I鈥檓 showing:
P2 $192
P3 $148

Seems weird.
 

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Meh......look at fleaBae.
P2 $72 shipped
P3 $132 shipped

Side Note;
Perhaps it's a personal liability thing, or not.
But these come with a Lifer warranty, and not just any ol' run of the mill customer support. If you have a problem, day or night, holiday or not, someone answers the trouble line.

And they speak real English.

And if they can't solve any troubleshooting issue over the phone, they'll overnight/rush a replacement immediately. No Purchase history hassles, just need your address.
I called them once with an issue, at the end of the business day.
12:30pm next day, in my hands was a replacement.

At that time of day (past pickup times), someone would've had to personally carry that package to a Main drop off point, for it to arrive that quickly.

They're serious about your safety.

You'll want the plug-n-play harness for the LBZ...about $10.
https://www.tekonsha.com/products/brake-controllers/2-plug-adapters/trailer-brake-control-harness/TzaIxkVx1cJJgWsByztj|TSUWnlM82gzw3kKCRWPLkA=
 

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Shouldn't be.
The links in post 7 are the same, P3.

The P3 is about $30-$50 more than the P2, which is under $100.
OOPS, goofed in links, here is the P2
 

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Ordered P3 and wire. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had forgotten that I even asked the question that started this thread.

I do have the turbo brake now. LOVE the turbo brake. My trailer is over 9k loaded, 34 feet. About 10k miles towed so far, lots in big mountains. I usually put the transmission in M, both to keep it out of 6th gear, and to control the downshifting. The turbo brake is more effective when the RPM's are higher, so I often downshift at about 2000 rpm - the transmission waits longer. Once I'm stopped (or slowed the desired amount), I usually toggle back up to 5 (or lower, depending on whether I'm going highway speeds or not) and let the transmission upshift when it sees fit, unless I have reason to control that shifting myself. Better acceleration and temp control if I keep rpm's higher than 1800 at a minimum, more like 2000.
 
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