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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I noticed the other day while hooked to a trailer checking the electric brakes/turn signals that my lift pump was loosing quite a bit of power every time I pushed the brakes or the turn signal lit. I decided today I was going to rewire the pump so it had the most power I could get to it at all times. I bought a 4 pin 30 amp relay from o'reillys for $6.50. the raptor 150 has a 25 amp fuse inline so I figured a 30 amp relay would be sufficient.

You need the following supplies to get the job done and a few hand tools

30+ amp relay
wire
solderless connectors or soldering gun

I started by cutting the power wire to raptor about 3" before the fuse so I could use the same size power wire thought out.

I then took the rest of the wire from the pump and put a ring terminal on one end and a female solderless connector on the other end, the female end connect to pin #30 on the relay the other end goes to the battery.

Next I put a solderless connector on the 3" or so left before the fuse that runs to the pump, the female solderless connector from the pump goes to pin #87

Next I ran the ground, I put a solderless ring terminal on one end and a female connector on the other end the female end goes to pin #85

Next figure out where you want get a key on 12v source from, I ended up using the 20amp fuse for the reverse lights from the under the hood the fuse box this goes to pin# 86.

Once all of the wires are ran and plugged into the relay as soon as you turn on the key you should have 12+ volts to the pump at all times. I have since hooked up to trailer and turned on the signal/brakes to hear no strain on the pump. To me the $7ish dollars I spent on this little project was well worth it in the end...


My drawing of the Pin #s and what its ran to


This is my relay didnt have shrink wrap big enough so it was wrapped in electrical tape and zip tied out of the way with raptors fuse.


The red wire you see is used to turn the relay on it doesnt need much power because all it does is turn the relay on, I chose to use the fuse for the reverse lights.


This is the power wire I cut from the raptor, I used a ring terminal and ran it to this box


I then ran the ground to the front of the truck (seems to work fine for my 55w HIDs), I didnt have ANY black wire for some reason so I had to use red for the ground.


Pin #30 power from the battery
Pin #87 runs to the raptor
Pin #86 12v key on source
Pin #85 Ground

I noticed no change in the lift pump with everything the had on and the lift pump sounds a lot louder like its actually getting the juice its supposed to, this would be a good mod for the guys really dragging the LP down with big tunes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
pics are posted this would be a great mod for the guys with big tunes pulling there fuel pressure down quite a bit. I did this mod to my cummins, I was drawing the fass 150 down from 16-18psi to under 8psi on hard runs (truck dyno'd 653/1412 ran 12.3 quarters) and after this mod it never dropped below 13-14psi.
 

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Oh...... Squirrel!
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I'm That Guy...
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pics are posted this would be a great mod for the guys with big tunes pulling there fuel pressure down quite a bit. I did this mod to my cummins, I was drawing the fass 150 down from 16-18psi to under 8psi on hard runs (truck dyno'd 653/1412 ran 12.3 quarters) and after this mod it never dropped below 13-14psi.
How was it wired?

The AirDog factory wiring uses a relay and wires direct to the batter with an inline fuse.
 

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Its just a worktruck
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When I had my raptor I did the same thing using a leftover PPE relay. ADs come with a relay and recommend hooking it up directly to the alternator.
 

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Nice think I will do this as well

Sent from my DROIDX
 
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