It’s alive!

Excellent, Charles.

 

Wow man! Way to go Charles!

 

Hell yeah Charles!

 

So gonna leave it alone for a week and thin about the plan of attack for the 3 issues, probably go after the coolant leak first. Pull the shroud off and pull the fan and crank it and look for leaks on the radiator. I pressurized the engine cooling system prior to install so I dont think its on the motor.

Once I do that, I’ll let the lift pump run and use the inspection camera to look to see if there is low pressure leak at all the connection points. If that comes up negative I’ll crank it and look for high pressure leaks.

Not sure how to go about looking at the torque converter issue yet. May pull the inspection cover and try to move the converter and see if for some reason when I installed and torqued the bolts that it was not seated all the way.

Barring that, I may have to pull the starter and check the bolts. If I have a failing converter, I’m going to send it to the trans shop for a refresh and new converter. It was built for 850, only needs a billet input shaft so may add that while its out if it comes to that.

Any advice on the TC issue and diagnosis would be apprecaiated.

 

I may have missed it but what issues are you having with the TC?

 

Great progress!

 

Mike its always been a little noisy especially when cold/cold start. Now it’s making a pretty big racket, worse than before. Has me second guessing my TC bolts, although they are new and I torqued them well with loctite, but it was immediate upon start up. I rev it to about 1200 and it quiets down but at idle its noisy as shit.

It got about 100k on it and was installed when Calvin’s in Sulphur LA built it. Not sure who made it buts it’s a billet unit with their logo on it.

My thought was to pull the inspection cover and check for play against the flex plate (e.g bolts not tight, like I got a false torque) and then if nothing, maybe pull the starter and check them. But if it has to come out the trans is getting a refresh and new converter.

 

Did you compare the old bolts to the new ones? They may be a little bit different and hitting something.

 

Nice progress

 

Good luck chasing it all down Charles.

 

Aftermarket converter? They need special bolts if so, oem are too long

 

Is it ever that easy? Hoping Charles has quick resolutions to the remaining issues... sometimes things drag on and on trying to solve these things...

 

Welcome to the world of automotive repair buddy. This is why techs drink. 😁

I’d definitely make sure the tq bolts aren’t too long.

 

Well it’s not coming from the supply or return to the engine. Got the input shaft to stop leaking by turning the steering wheel straight so at least I can continue to diagnose while I order the steering box. Coolant leak must have just been all the water still in the cores from the washout since I don’t see anything now that I have the shroud off and the fan off.

So the fuel leak is baffling me. Really hard to see around the back of the cylinder head on the drivers side. Trying to find the highest point where fuel is present, so far tracked it to dripping off the bolt holding the Fleece label to the back of the head in an unused bolt hole.The only thing back there is the return line banjo fitting where it mounts to the head. I torqued and used new washers on everything so if thats it then I have no idea what I did wrong. Really need a top side creeper….

So the saga continues.

 

... Really need a top side creeper….

So the saga continues.

maocao hoom 5.5 ft. Reach Top Automotive Creeper Engine Creeper 42.5 in. 66 in. 330 lbs. Capacity 4 Swivel Caster Wheels Step Stool CXY-P152333 - The Home Depot

Enhance your kitchen or bar space with the selection of this elegant maocao hoom 2-Reach Top Automotive Creeper Engine Creeper Capacity Caster Wheels Step Stool.

www.homedepot.com

 

Give that banjo bolt another try. Like Chris said, those damn copper washers can be a bear sometimes.

 

Well I believe I found the leak. Moved the charge pipe and the GP model and I believe its the high pressure connection from the line coming from the distribution block where it connects to the drivers side fuel rail at the back of the engine.

Blasted and cleaned and ultra sonic cleaned the line and rail and its torqued correctly. So if I have to tear the crap off the top of the motor to get to it I’m just going to put a new rail and line on it. Never easy.

But at least I found it.

 

Hello darkness my old friend….

Ordered a new rail and HP line and new steering box. Won’t break the lines loose until the parts get here.

 

Been a little quiet 🤫 over here buddy. You get lost in the city?

 

Work has been stupid busy. Won’t get to the ranch until 4/13. Travels for work and kids next week

 

Any updates bub? Been over a month since we've heard from yah

 

He was busy rubbin shoulders with a scotch at the masters last I recall

 

lol, yeah “work” has been crazy. Had an appointment to have to taken to the trans shop on the 19th but located another fuel leak, not as large but enough I don’t feel good about driving it home from the shop 100 miles. So gonna have to track that one down and fix it first. It may be from the filter head but all that is new. New head, new hoses, new filter, but who knows. Had to take a week off to move both kids back home from college so hopefully i can get to it soon. taking a bit of a break to clean and organize the shop

 

Well I got out in the shop this morning and while cleaning up the shop, boredom and curiosity got me so I went ahead and pulled the trans and T case. It was near impossible to line my schedule up with the shop and the tow truck anyway.

So now to decide what to do. Nothing wrong with the trans except that the converter was making some noise and now it has the bolts sheared off in the converter. Apparently the new bolts I got bottomed out in the converter before clamping the flex plate so I was torquing against the bottom of the converter. The flex plate may have to be replaced now since I think the holes are wallowed a bit.

For converter, I’m leaning towards goerend R but open to ideas and suggestions. Still plan on using the truck to tow so dont want anything too loose.

Probably also do the pump rub fix while I’m in it.

 

If trans is fine when you pulled it, I would not touch it and run it. I run the R converter and I like it for my setup.

 

Personally I’d do a refresh on it. But that’s me. 😂

also. It’s not my money

 

You might as well get the powder coat gun out to while that’s all out, a white trans and transfer case would look really nice under there. Or red I guess! 😜

 

You’ve obviously forgot #ihatedave. Lol

 

Bingo!

 

I think that what @mikel put in my Lbz was that gorerand or how ever it was spelled. I liked it as well.
I did hear from that guy not to long ago that purchased my LBZ. Says it still looks and runs great but doesn’t see much daylight

 

If the trans worked good, I’d leave it. Replaced the converter, put the pump rub kit in the tx case and put it all back in the truck.