I love the "got bored so went ahead and just pulled the transmission" haha. I so know how easy it is to get deep into projects. Next thing you know you have a garage full of parts scattered across benches and floor!
Easy to spend money in someone elses wallet, but for me piece of mind of a rebuild (depending on miles and use) is nice knowing that it'll never come back out. I have been cheap in this way before...and it rarely pays off. Getting old and wise i suppose means young and dumb happened.

 

Little but of progress today. Tackled the Dmax Store pump rub kit. The videos on YouTube University are crap and don’t really do justice to the process of getting the snap ring to release from the shaft. I moved the shaft to the top of its travel with a screw driver through the speed sensor hole and then wrapped the output shaft in tape to protect it and then locked on to it with some vice grips to keep it at the top of its travel so the snap ring can move outward to the pocket that is only accessible when the shaft assembly is at its upper travel. Then with external snap ring pliers get it started off the shaft and then press on the ends of the snap ring tabs to move it off the back part of the shaft. Then release the vice grips to allow it to drop down away from the snap ring.

I barely dodged the bullet on the case rubbing through. As you can see in the photo. Got the new cover installed and magnet cleaned out, no real debris on it which is good. Just waiting on RTV to set up so I can toss the bolts in the ultrasonic cleaner and then chase the holes with the thread cleaning tap and install and torque the bolts.

And it wouldn’t be a project with bleeding on it.

 

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Little but of progress today. Tackled the Dmax Store pump rub kit. The videos on YouTube University are crap and don’t really do justice to the process of getting the snap ring to release from the shaft. I moved the shaft to the top of its travel with a screw driver through the speed sensor hole and then wrapped the output shaft in tape to protect it and then locked on to it with some vice grips to keep it at the top of its travel so the snap ring can move outward to the pocket that is only accessible when the shaft assembly is at its upper travel. Then with external snap ring pliers get it started off the shaft and then press on the ends of the snap ring tabs to move it off the back part of the shaft. Then release the vice grips to allow it to drop down away from the snap ring.

I barely dodged the bullet on the case rubbing through. As you can see in the photo. Got the new cover installed and magnet cleaned out, no real debris on it which is good. Just waiting on RTV to set up so I can toss the bolts in the ultrasonic cleaner and then chase the holes with the thread cleaning tap and install and torque the bolts.

And it wouldn’t be a project with bleeding on it. View attachment 1149171

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Thanks for sharing the photos, Charles.
I bought a Merchant Automotive pump rub kit for the LBZ before it got totaled. Will still get into the transfer case someday.

 

 

My Great Uncle handed those out in the 1960s. They were wooden then. 🤷‍♂️

 

Finally pulled the trigger on the converter. Goerend R. Now need to get a front seal and a seal for the shaft on the t case

 

edit

 

Play time is over. Goerend delivered much early than expected since they said a few weeks lead time. Their service is top notch and they answer and return calls quickly. Retail price is the same on all the big web sites, but I ordered directly from Goerend because their service is good and their return label option for the core was way cheaper than the re-sellers.

I now know for sure that the reason the truck is still down is that I used OEM bolts in the aftermarket converter that was in it and they are too long. Bottomed out and torqued to spec but not clamping. Stupid mistake but rookie mistake. So I was researching and saw forum posts about it. Live and learn. Was about to order bolts and decided to open the package and sure enough Goerend includes bolts already.

So ordered an input speed sensor since the one on it has the tab broken that holds the connector. It hasn’t come off yet but rather not take a chance since it’s out and easily accessible.

Now to get a bunch of Dex VI and an output shaft seal and input shaft seal and get after it next weekend.

Need to find a way to flush the cooler and radiator cooler. Apparently when it was sitting outside and the radiator was in the bed it got some water in it. Fluid was off color. Not enough to be strawberry milkshake but enough that I don’t like it.

Hope to have this thing back on the road by the 4th.

 

Got to working on it today. Pulled the TC seal and made a seal driver from a section of pipe and the old transfer case pump housing. Wondering about this little seal on the stator shaft? Anyone know what it is and whether it shoudl be replaced? How to tell if it needs to be replaced? Google is not helpful on this.

Got the Fleece transmission line adapters installed on the transmission and then got under the truck and removed the flex plate and flywheel to find that my project finished early… knew I had boogered up the flex plate when the bolts sheared off but had no idea it ruined the flywheel. Don’t think it was cracked when I reinstalled it. Found the other 4 bolt heads and there was very minimal damage to the rear engine plate so dodged a bullet there.

Off to eBay to make an offer on a flywheel. The cost of using the wrong bolts is starting to add up.

 

Your probably going to need to reach out to a builder to ask about that seal. If it were me, I would replace it.

 

Got the flex plate and flywheel used in better shape than the one I had. Got it installed and torqued with ARP fasteners to 250.

wrestling that Allison from the floor to the jack under the truck will test you for sure.

sure wish I’d have had a sign like this before I installed the wrong bolts in the last one.
It’s now in and all the brackets and wiring back in place with no leftover parts. lol.

replaced the rear seal on the T case. Mine was 56mm shaft. Apparently there are different sizes.

 

Sometimes the learning curve is helpful. In your case, it hit you with a caveman's club.

I'm glad you have it figured out. The truck will be much happier.

 

Add fluid and finish install the cooler lines right?

 

Reinstall both drive shafts, strut lines for the lift kit, torque converter bolts and starter, then lines and fill, plus fill the t case.

Then the AC system, lines, flush charge. Then headlights, grill and bumper

And I have a small fuel leak to chase down.

Then the new steering box since the old one is leaking.

 

That puts you in a decent race with @1TRIKHD i think to the finish line.

 

No powder coat recommendations? 🤣

I haven't seen a #IhateDave in a bit.😁

 

Ok. 9 hours under the truck today. Seems like things take forever. I fought the TC bolts like crazy. OEM bolts have a taper area to help start them. I was installing with a magnetic probe but that was less than effective. Ultimately I started using electrical tape to tape the head of the bolt into the deep socket and then starting the bolt with the socket before inserting the long extension from the front of the truck.

Got the drive shaft installed, the transfer case got filled with 5/30 mobile 1, torqued the crossmember bolts, installed the bolts in the fuel line brackets on the transmission, removed the starter, broke the tab for the relay, but I still had my original starter so just put it back on since nothing was wrong with it.

Installed the TC bolts, installed the Fleece trans lines. I really like them they are well made. The dropped the pan and installed a new internal filter and a new spin on. Put the fan back on and charged the batteries.

Put UV dye in the filter since I knew I had a fuel leak, after taking truck for a short spin, its a bigger leak than I thought. Need to chase that down.

So remaining list:

Fuel leak
Lift kit braces reinstall
Front drive shaft
Flush AC system and install new drier and pull vacuum and charge
Reinstall the grill headlights and bumper
Install new red head steering box.

 

Glad she is running on her own Charles, can’t wait for the final walk around with the shiny bits n pieces

 

Today I cleaned the shop, installed the front drive shaft and the lift kit struts and investigated the fuel leak. I think its the connection at the passenger side fuel rail feed.

Pulled it outside with the windows down to air it out.

Will have to pull alternator, intake and the intercooler pipe. May try just torquing down on the connection, otherwise will order. New pipe. I used the line socket and a torque wrench when i installed it so not sure why its leaking.

Hopefully thats the last leak and I can then get on to reinstalling the AC lines and flush and charge. Then get the grill lights and bumper back on.

 

Torquing the connection didnt work. Got the HP line this week. Of course more stuff had to come off. AC Compressor and the HP line from the CP3 to the distribution block. Here you can see the new line and where the HP line from the CP3 to the distribution block goes. Hindsight, just buy all new HP lines. The amount of time and energy chasing leaks is not worth a few $100 when you are this deep into a rebuild. The male portion of these HP connections which is each end of the lines, deforms ever so slightly almost like a crush fit when torqued down.its a hit or miss whether they re-seal when reused. I used all new injector lines but tried to reuse the HP lines from the CP3 to the distribution block and the HP lines from the block to each rail. Both rail lines leaked at the rail connection. Anyone want to make bets on whether the used CP3 to dist block leaks now that its been removed? It’s the only line I haven’t replaced yet. The only positive its the easiest to replace so we shall see.

Update later after I fire it up and check for leaks. Barring leaks its on to installing AC lines and flushing the system then evacuate and charge. Then grill lights and bumper. Last thing will be replacing the leaking steering gear. Have the new redhead sitting on the shelf.

 

At least it's clean and the bolts are all freshly torqued, and not seized in.

Looks really good Charles.

 

Look at all the nicely powder coated parts in there! Whose idea was that?

good looking for sure

 

I thought Charles clarified that...

#Ihatedave

In fact, I hear there's a fan club.

 

Yeah, well still has a leak. Quit, pissed off, and then to quote a Aussie friend, I just got pissed on whiskey…
Cleaned all the fuel off the top side and will let it dry and get back after it next weekend lookin for the source of the leak. It’s coming from the passenger side rail area, just need to narrow it down. Don’t think its the injector lines to rail so its either the fitting to the rail or the new line is leaking at the rail fitting. Kinda unsettling to see fuel dripping off the exhaust manifold once it reaches temp….

I also noticed its very dirty at part throttle so data logging and sending it back to PPEI for refinement is also on the list. But good news the transmission drives and shift well.

 

Yeah, well still has a leak. Quit, pissed off...

Honestly, I feel your pain.

Charles, humor me. Double check the plug at the rear of the passengers side fuel rail. Make sure it's tight. Then check it again after running the engine to make sure the seal isn't seeping. It's kind of a PITA with the heat shield in the way.

 

Will certainly check it. I highly doubt it’s leaking. I powdered coated the rails with the plug in place and it was never removed and wasn’t leaking before I tore it down. I will check.

The other likely spot since i replaced the line, is the fuel rail fitting on the front. Gonna put some more dye in the filter and get my good black light out.

 

So turns out it was the same fitting/connection at the passenger side rail. Pulled it apart and removed the fitting at the rail thinking I could replace it with the fitting from the new rail I had bought but didnt use. Turns out that Bosch apparently discontinued the original LB7 design and only make and ship the LLY design which has the restriction built into the fitting and not the slug that goes behind the fitting in the rail. So I used some polishing rouge and a dremel to polish the sealing surfaces and reinstalled. So far it looks like it not leaking. Took it for a short drive and I don’t have fuel leaking down the back of the head and off the exhaust manifold.

The first picture is the original fitting a slug so there are two sealing surfaces. The last picture is the fitting on the LLY style.

So this weekend is replacing the steering box which is puking ps fluid at a high rate. It was replaced about 35,000 miles ago and is a red head unit. Rather than using it as a core, I got an old OEM and sent it to redhead and got a new reman red head to replace it. Will eventually rebuild the seals and keep it as a spare. It was still tight but just leaking.

I may have an oil leak but will track that down once I get the steering box done and confirm no fuel leaks. Wonder if is the oil return to the turbo or the oil cooler but we will see.

 

Happy you got it worked out.
Almost there...

 

Ok got the steering gear replaced. Much harder than last time. Last time I had it up on stands with all the suspension and steering removed while I was installing the 6 inch lift when I lowered it from 12.

Got it done, filled it with fluid jacked it up and ran it lock to lock a few times and then went for a drive. My 6-1/2 mile loop. Still Smokey part throttle but moves pretty good. Not really railing on it just yet as the transmission re-learns.

Pulled it back in the shop and only a drop or two of fluid. May be residual from all the stuff it was puking out of the steering gear. Still no fuel leaking so that’s good.

Will take it out again tomorrow and try some data logging

 

Glad the fuel leaks are not rearing their head still charles!

 

Yah, buddy. Woohoo