[Itsme7]

Im fixing to do a complete rear brake overhaul on my 2008 3500 dually this weekend. Ive read on previous threads that the older trucks use the 6 point specialty socket, does the 2008 use the same socket or a large standard 6/12 point? For some reason im thinking its a 36mm? Thanks!

 

[JimmyD]

Subd

 

[Itsme7]

Bump! Anyone know?

 

[rparlee]

Found this thread over on DP - yes, the DRWs are different than 2500 or their 3500 SRW counterpart.

Tips on doing Dually Brakes - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums


FYI, this is the spindle nut socket i have for my 2006 SRW 1ton. Should be the same for you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015UWW64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And just found this post with a PDF with a how-to on a 2004. 2008 should be similar. You will need a DP login to download the PDF -- i can message the PDF to you if necessary.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...ally-trucks/332151-dually-rear-brake-how.html


I'd replace the axle oil seal while you're in there too. Don't forget the axle gasket (or RTV in a pinch).

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

It's the specialty socket, w/6 teeth protruding from the edge.

Cheaper solution;
One of these for $10, then grind a hair off the inside of each tooth, and it fits.

Performance Tool W1270 - Spindle Socket | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

[RoughKnight]

Im fixing to do a complete rear brake overhaul on my 2008 3500 dually this weekend. Ive read on previous threads that the older trucks use the 6 point specialty socket, does the 2008 use the same socket or a large standard 6/12 point? For some reason im thinking its a 36mm? Thanks!

I know this answer is many years to late, however for people reading this thread now, this answer should be of some benefit: You don't need any socket of any type to remove the axle nut, all you need is a screwdriver and perhaps a few light taps with a hammer to remove it (the installed torque of the nut is 0 FT-LBS as per the GM shop manual). In fact you don't even need a socket and torque wrench to adjust the bearing to the EXACT factory spec, again all you need is a screwdriver and a few light taps with a hammer. I have made a video that proves this empirically. In the video I adjust one wheel with the factory procedure using a torque wrench and 2-5/8" 6 pin socket and mark the final key way position. Then I loosen the axle nut and pull back on the hub to totally eliminate the adjustment and and adjust the bearing with just a screwdriver and a few light taps with a hammer. Both procedures come to the same mark. And just to prove reliability (and you don't need 52 FT LBS to seat the inner seal or roller bearings) I repeat the procedure on the other side except I use the screwdriver technique first and again come to exactly the same mark. Here is a link to the video;