Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have to replace the water pump and have to remove the harmonic balancer. I have already bent a 1/2 inch piece of steel. How do I get this off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,268 Posts
You will need a flywheel lock tool. And I also got a long piece of pipe over my socket wrench yo loosen it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,384 Posts
See if anyone has a 1" impact gun in your area, keep in mind my engine was out when we did mine :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Cant find a flywheel lock tool anywhere around here. Right now I am thinking I have to take the starter out, but I am afraid of breaking the teeth.
 

·
Coffee addict
Joined
·
1,831 Posts
It's going to be hard without that tool, I had to use a 3/4" breaker bar, and a cheater pipe to get the bolt loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
I have to replace the water pump and have to remove the harmonic balancer. I have already bent a 1/2 inch piece of steel. How do I get this off?
36" X 1/2" (snapon SN36) breaker bar and some extra cheese burgers behind it. the breaker bar i used was almost an inch thick and it was not straight while pulling that bolt off.


here is the tool you need, over night it and be done. dont mess with the starter.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22100-Flywheel-Locking-Duramax/dp/B002MCVPOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399833050&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+flywheel+tool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I know it was a bigg risk but I took of the inspection plate of the bell housing and jammed a big punch in the flywheel hole to lock the engine up when I took my harmonic balancer off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
get a big cheater bat on a breaker bar, place cheater against the frame rail and hit the starter. watched it done a dozen times no issues
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,590 Posts
get a big cheater bat on a breaker bar, place cheater against the frame rail and hit the starter. watched it done a dozen times no issues
I used the AC pump to hold the breaker bar. I've since bought the tool. If the motor decides to start you'll have a serious problem on your hands.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
get a big cheater bat on a breaker bar, place cheater against the frame rail and hit the starter. watched it done a dozen times no issues
or buy the 20$ tool to do it right and run 0 risk of causing catastrophic damage to your engine :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I used the AC pump to hold the breaker bar. I've since bought the tool. If the motor decides to start you'll have a serious problem on your hands.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Like what? It'll back the bolt out for you. For the record did mine last nov. Using exact method and it won't start unless you crank it over and tightening was a breeze with a hammer and breaker bar, did I get 300ft lbs? Prolly not but the bolt is still tight and a water pump takes less then 2 hrs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
Like what? It'll back the bolt out for you. For the record did mine last nov. Using exact method and it won't start unless you crank it over and tightening was a breeze with a hammer and breaker bar, did I get 300ft lbs? Prolly not but the bolt is still tight and a water pump takes less then 2 hrs
not everyone goes by the "gud 'nough" policy.... some people actually care if there balancer falls off half way down the highway. i doubt you came even close to 300 ft pounds with that method. probably didnt put locktight on either did ya. oh well, good enough.... probably dumped the old coolant back in too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
not everyone goes by the "gud 'nough" policy.... some people actually care if there balancer falls off half way down the highway. i doubt you came even close to 300 ft pounds with that method. probably didnt put locktight on either did ya. oh well, good enough.... probably dumped the old coolant back in too.
Actually no I used fresh coolant and did the T stats as well, and lock tite is mandatory, ya I'll loose a lot of sleep over whether a 8lb sledge had enough persuasion to tighten that bolt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
or buy the 20$ tool to do it right and run 0 risk of causing catastrophic damage to your engine :rolleyes:
Just because you buy the $20 tool doesn't mean there is less risk of catastrophic engine damage. I've seem more damage using the tool than not. Most of the time because you are loading the torque to the bolt slowly by the time your bar and pipe bend and twist it will break the entire snout off the crankshaft. I have done it several times and seen it done quite a few times. But I have yet to see it happen using the starter. It shocks the bolt loose quicker I think. Can't explain it. But that's what I have found. Also almost forgot to mention. Use as short an extension or socket as you can so your right up against the balancer with your breaker bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Most of the time because you are loading the torque to the bolt slowly by the time your bar and pipe bend and twist it will break the entire snout off the crankshaft.
I've wondered about this and the frequency of crank shafts snapping. I'm curious how many of the vehicles that had the crank snap had it happen some time after a water pump replacement, and if they did the flywheel tool or the starter method.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
When I did my water pump a few (5?6?) years ago, I took out the radiator and intercooler to clean them (they actually weren't clogged at all, because we don't have a lot of stuff in the air where I live). That left a clear path to put a big air impact wrench on the bolt and it came right off. I didn't even use the flywheel tool.

You still need the flywheel tool (Lisle) to hold it to torque the bolt back down. 4 years later I hear I was suppose to put in a new bolt ... oops, maybe next time (in about 5 years at this rate).
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top