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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! I think I spun a turbo bearing… all I did was pull the turbo and replace the compressor wheel with a wicked wheel. She fired right up and ran fine for about 5-10minutes while I checked for leaks. By the time I got to the end of the driveway she was screaming… I know it’s a turbo issue because when I unplug the controller at the turbo it stops… WHAT DID I DO WRONG!?
 

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”WHAT DID I DO WRONG” . Well what you did wrong is make a turbo that is unbalanced by swapping the wheel. It should be against the law to sell just a turbo wheel. A turbo MUST be balanced or it will blow up or what have ya.
 

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”WHAT DID I DO WRONG” . Well what you did wrong is make a turbo that is unbalanced by swapping the wheel. It should be against the law to sell just a turbo wheel. A turbo MUST be balanced or it will blow up or what have ya.
Wow, never knew you could replace just the compressor wheel. At the RPMs these things spin at I can't imagine anyone selling just parts of the compressor or turbine wheel. D
 

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Yeah, several companies sell them as just a wheel or a wheel and cover kit, but I've never trusted them. Lots of people have used them, but I wouldn't. Just like @Nate Dmax said, the turbo is not balanced after the wheel is installed. Sorry you went through all the work to do that @poyse2b3 but look at it this way- now is a perfect time to upgrade to a Cheetah!
 

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It certainly looks like some of the blades have some chips and chunks missing - particularly 11 o'clock area. That's kind of spooky on anything that rotates at close to 100k rpm. That needs to be meticulously balanced. I'd say grab yourself a reman unit and be done with it. You don't want to take that out again once you have it all back together.
9Apps Showbox
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I guess the next question is if a upgraded turbo is worth it…

current upgrades
-Built Trans
-HSP hot side and y-pipe
-Fass Fuel Pump
-up and down pipes
-LBZ mouthpiece
-deleted
-EFI Live


Mostly use as daily driver/towing 10k camper

Should I just get my current turbo rebuilt? Or go with a 64mm upgrade or something else?

any other upgrades I need to do to my LLY to make it reliable?
 

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I have similar upgrades and I went with a Fleece 63mm Street turbo. My DSP5 HP numbers are:
1... 450
2... 475
3... 500 (tow tune)
4... 537
5... 563

All were run on ATP's dyno the week before they shut down.
 

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You are in a great spot for a cheetah. You have great supporting mods and will notice the better air flow, and obviously the whistle. I think it would be a good upgrade for your setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After doing some more research I’m not so sure it’s the turbo bearings after all… I have read a few places that Duramax turbo bearings will not make noise when going bad is this true? Now I am leaning more toward a up pipe or down pipe leak… it is directly tied to engine rpm. When I rev it up a little it makes a squeal from the turbo area… anyone else had experience with up or down pipe leaks?
 

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That could be a possibility. Make sure all the bolts got tightened to the 39lbft. Even then I wouldn’t trust your turbo. Send it off and get it balanced and checked through. Or put a upgraded turbo on like suggested. You could also check out Danville turbos. The 3794 would do great in your setup.
 

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After doing some more research I’m not so sure it’s the turbo bearings after all… I have read a few places that Duramax turbo bearings will not make noise when going bad is this true? Now I am leaning more toward a up pipe or down pipe leak… it is directly tied to engine rpm. When I rev it up a little it makes a squeal from the turbo area… anyone else had experience with up or down pipe leaks?
They can leak if installing blanking plate for the EGR. The expansion joints in the Y pipe don't take too kindly to being pried forward and back, they are made for linear expansion. Search Youtube you can find plenty of examples. D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
They can leak if installing blanking plate for the EGR. The expansion joints in the Y pipe don't take too kindly to being pried forward and back, they are made for linear expansion. Search Youtube you can find plenty of examples. D
i don’t have a y pipe. I replaced both up pipes with high flow ones.
 
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Is it only squalling when you are on the throttle and moving some air? Like it doesn't do it just sitting there idling
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is it only squalling when you are on the throttle and moving some air? Like it doesn't do it just sitting there idling
very very faint at idle. when you unplug the VVT controller which I am pretty sure defaults the vanes to full open it goes away at idle completely. It only makes the noise when increasing the rpms.
 

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You do not have to get it balanced, both wheels are balanced independently. Sounds like you have a boost leak. Why didn't you just rebuild the turbo while you were at it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You do not have to get it balanced, both wheels are balanced independently. Sounds like you have a boost leak. Why didn't you just rebuild the turbo while you were at it ?

I checked for a boost leak, It is clearly coming from behind or near the turbo... I probably should have rebuilt it...
 

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I checked for a boost leak, It is clearly coming from behind or near the turbo... I probably should have rebuilt it...
Check your up-pipes for leaks.
 
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