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I started to worry about the GM OEM hitch on my truck. I tow a 10K dry weight camper with a Reese weight distribution set up. The OEM hitch for some reason appears to have started "Hog Out" at the pin holes, and is showing signs of rust and corrosion. For peace of mind I have decided to replace it. Any recommendation for a bolt on replacement that looks clean would be appreciated. I'm thinking of moving up to a class V. Truck is a bone stock crew cab 2010 LMM.

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Or you could just have the holes welded and redrilled.....................and to prevent any hog out in the future use a grade 8 bolt and nylon lock nut for a pin if you are not installing and removing the hitch very often.
 

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Or you could just have the holes welded and redrilled.....................and to prevent any hog out in the future use a grade 8 bolt and nylon lock nut for a pin if you are not installing and removing the hitch very often.


I think the bigger issue is the rust he mentions, coupled with the inherent weakness of the OEM hitch that has been documented failing so many times over and over.
 

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I had a hitch on My 2007 silvy 1500 that I saw a pinhole 鈥 I crawled under and saw that it was rusted thru in 3 crucial spots
I have a friend who is a certified welder .. he was horrified and said replace this thing and we cut it up for junk so it would not be reused
 

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That's interesting since I was talking to a friend at caterpillar the other day about the problems they had on the hitch pin holes on their service trucks. He has an 07 LBZ similar to mine and their service truck that does the most towing is an LBZ with a factory hitch so he was worried about his. What they determined was that the hitch was made with a soft steel. They did a Rockwell test and he mentioned the hardness but I've slept since then so don't remember. I do remember him saying that the pin was a lot harder and tested at a grade 8 but that a couple that they bought from a big chain camping supply place were grade 5. Neither the 8's or the 5's showed any pin wear and the only hitch with wallowed out holes was the one that the harder pin was used with. That being said, that's the truck that is used to pull their trailer that they deliver and retrieve scissor lifts, backhoes, buckets and blades and so on and has done the most towing by far. They felt that it wasn't really broken but to avoid any liability they drilled it oversize and welded in some hardened inserts. He was considering doing his hitch too but seldom used it and wasn't sure it was worth it. I didn't think so.
 

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you guys are making me nervous? Can I assume I am o.k. with my 2013 stock set up ( 2.5 in.)? Are you guys referring to the smaller ( 2") receivers on the earlier trucks?

I (obviously 'bumper pull") around 11,000 lbs, (approx. 1,300 lbs on the tongue) on what I am assuming is a "stock" installation. Should I worry ?
 

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....The OEM hitch for some reason appears to have started "Hog Out" at the pin holes, and is showing signs of rust and corrosion.
I replaced my OEM hitch last week with the class V Curt hitch recommended by Hook_em in the link above. I pull a 30' Airstream and a few months ago found a broken hitch pin which fortunately did not fall out while towing. As the attached pic shows, it broke right at the spot where the hitch pin hole began to hog out. Class V may be overkill but it works for me.
 

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you guys are making me nervous? Can I assume I am o.k. with my 2013 stock set up ( 2.5 in.)? Are you guys referring to the smaller ( 2") receivers on the earlier trucks?

I (obviously 'bumper pull") around 11,000 lbs, (approx. 1,300 lbs on the tongue) on what I am assuming is a "stock" installation. Should I worry ?
After 2010 these trucks came with a beefier ballmount reciever hitch.

They are talking about the Ballmount pin wearing at the receiver holes because the older hitches use thinner steel.
 

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If you go with a Class V receiver then it will be 2.25" hitch opening and you will need a hitch reducer to use your current hitch.
 

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if you go with a class v receiver then it will be 2.25" hitch opening and you will need a hitch reducer to use your current hitch.


2.5鈥
 

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I had a Curt class 5 that the pin hole hogged out also. When I replaced it I added 1/4" plate to each side of the hitch. The hitches are only 1/8" wall so now mine is 3/8" wall No sign of hogging out since. But it now takes a pin for a 2 1/2" hitch due to extra width
 
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