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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen alot of guys do a resonator delete on thier duramax and i am curious is it safe? Make the turbo any louder? Quicker spool?

Lmm Guy
 

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Yes its safe, No it wont be any louder, No spool difference. Most guys do it to clean things up under the hood.
 

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Does nothing other than get that big dumbass looking box out of there
 

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Discussion Starter #5
totally safe (assuming you dont do it in some absolutely hill billy nonsensical way), doesent do too much though.
Is it safe to use the $3 rubber cap thing ? I ordered a billet plug itll be here friday but i kinda wanna go ahead and put one on for now.

Lmm Guy
 

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Is it safe to use the $3 rubber cap thing ? I ordered a billet plug itll be here friday but i kinda wanna go ahead and put one on for now.

Lmm Guy


yea thats fine, not going to hurt anything. just dont shove rags in there or something silly like that, The cap only needs to hold boost pressure.
 

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“Wrong”
Not really, that $3 rubber cap over a short period of time it will deteriorate, crumble up and get sucked thru the turbo.
If it’s just temporarily until you get the billet cap maybe.
That boost pressure is turbo sucking full force.
In fact do not use hardware rubber crap on any of the fittings, this hardware rubber is not made to withstand hot engine compartment temps.

I’ve already experienced using a plumbers plug, another guy several years ago used the wing nut that comes on the plug, I replaced it with all steel lock nuts.
His wing nut came loose and sucked thru the turbo, I went out and removed my plug the rubber had already started coming apart not sealing allowing air thru.

Do it right with the parts made for this or don’t do it at all, this is the way I feel.

BTW, resonator delete does absolutely nothing.
Only the chance of the resonator cracking is reason enough, that’s all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
“Wrong”
Not really, that $3 rubber cap over a short period of time it will deteriorate, crumble up and get sucked thru the turbo.
If it’s just temporarily until you get the billet cap maybe.
That boost pressure is turbo sucking full force.
In fact do not use hardware rubber crap on any of the fittings, this hardware rubber is not made to withstand hot engine compartment temps.

I’ve already experienced using a plumbers plug, another guy several years ago used the wing nut that comes on the plug, I replaced it with all steel lock nuts.
His wing nut came loose and sucked thru the turbo, I went out and removed my plug the rubber had already started coming apart not sealing allowing air thru.

Do it right with the parts made for this or don’t do it at all, this is the way I feel.

BTW, resonator delete does absolutely nothing.
Only the chance of the resonator cracking is reason enough, that’s all.
I ended up just buying a billet cap

Lmm Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
“Wrong”
Not really, that $3 rubber cap over a short period of time it will deteriorate, crumble up and get sucked thru the turbo.
If it’s just temporarily until you get the billet cap maybe.
That boost pressure is turbo sucking full force.
In fact do not use hardware rubber crap on any of the fittings, this hardware rubber is not made to withstand hot engine compartment temps.

I’ve already experienced using a plumbers plug, another guy several years ago used the wing nut that comes on the plug, I replaced it with all steel lock nuts.
His wing nut came loose and sucked thru the turbo, I went out and removed my plug the rubber had already started coming apart not sealing allowing air thru.

Do it right with the parts made for this or don’t do it at all, this is the way I feel.

BTW, resonator delete does absolutely nothing.
Only the chance of the resonator cracking is reason enough, that’s all.
Btw amazon has a really good quality one for $16

Lmm Guy
 

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$14.99 PRIME Mines yet to blow off :wink2:
:thumb
FYI, there’s no blowing out only sucking really hard like a big a$$ shop vacuum from the intake where the plug is.
You also might check it once in a while, making sure it’s still snug in place, even good quality O-rings loose elasticity and shrink overtime.
My good quality $30+ one did after only a few years, I found mine was loose, I had to replace the O-ring, the company I bought mine from sent me another O-ring.
I put my resonator back on over the plug for extra protection, just in case.
 

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:thumb
FYI, there’s no blowing out only sucking really hard like a big a$$ shop vacuum from the intake where the plug is.
Hence the wink :)

It along with the pcv plug are two things i check when i pop the hood.
and ounce of prevention... right?
 

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When I gots my pcv re-route stuff in 2008 they only had vitron caps.
A couple years later when I bought the billet resonator, billet plugs was available and included as a kit.
My pounds of prevention was to remove the caps insert the billet plugs then clamp the vitron caps over them.
 

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“Wrong”
Not really, that $3 rubber cap over a short period of time it will deteriorate, crumble up and get sucked thru the turbo.
If it’s just temporarily until you get the billet cap maybe.
That boost pressure is turbo sucking full force.
In fact do not use hardware rubber crap on any of the fittings, this hardware rubber is not made to withstand hot engine compartment temps.

I’ve already experienced using a plumbers plug, another guy several years ago used the wing nut that comes on the plug, I replaced it with all steel lock nuts.
His wing nut came loose and sucked thru the turbo, I went out and removed my plug the rubber had already started coming apart not sealing allowing air thru.

Do it right with the parts made for this or don’t do it at all, this is the way I feel.

BTW, resonator delete does absolutely nothing.
Only the chance of the resonator cracking is reason enough, that’s all.

i dont see a difference between the rubber cap and the rubber factory bellows on the intake.
 

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i dont see a difference between the rubber cap and the rubber factory bellows on the intake.
So you don’t think rubber made for hot engine compartments is of better quality vs rubber you get from the hardware store and use in the engine compartment. 'uhNo

Here’s a example of hardware rubber caps that I put on my egr cooler after I by-passed it to keep crap out, this was only after 6 months.
If you think it would last much longer with massive intake suction before it crumbles and gets suck in, you’ve been out in the cold to long.
 

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So you don’t think rubber made for hot engine compartments is of better quality vs rubber you get from the hardware store and use in the engine compartment. 'uhNo

Here’s a example of hardware rubber caps that I put on my egr cooler after I by-passed it to keep crap out, this was only after 6 months.
If you think it would last much longer with massive intake suction before it crumbles and gets suck in, you’ve been out in the cold to long.
That rubber cap is meant for plumbing and waste water usage so it should be reasonably chemical resistant. Its also designed to handle the pressure of a column of water, so the vacuum on it should not really be a problem. My concern with it would be the heat, which like the picture you showed would damage any rubber, but especially rubber not made for higher temperatures. That said, i dont see the top of the intake getting that much heat compared to the EGR cooler. Im not saying its a GOOD idea long term, i just don't forsee it being a time bomb either. Theres lots of rubber in the engine bay, hoses, body mounts, engine mounts ect. Vulcanized rubber is pretty resistant to most things though.
 

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Ok :thumb continue using hardware rubber anywhere on your engine where your heart desires.
 
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