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I have a 2013 Duramax with 148k miles. I have taken very good care of it with routine oil, air and fuel filter changes. When I remote start or start with no throttle, it dies. When I started answer use a little throttle it runs rough. If I start and use moderate throttle it does just fine. I read on another post about the dying issue could be caused by the factor bleeder screw being cracked. I replaced it with a billet one. It seems like it is getting worse. Any help wouldbe great.
 

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I would clean BOTH the MAF and MAP sensors with MAF cleaner. MAF tells the ECM how much air and at what density is entering the engine, and the MAP tells the ECM what the vacuum or boost pressure is. Both are used in determining how muh fuel to inject into the engine. If either are off, engine will run poorly. Then I would get a tool, like a scanner, that will tell you the temp seen by the CTS, Coolant Temp Sensor. My truck has 2 of those one to send info to the ECM, and another to run the gauge in the dash. See if they both agree and have the correct temps. You can buy ELM DLC appliances that connect to your car and phone and give you data readings, hopefully the CTS. Make sure your air cleaner is clean and not an oiled gauze type.
 

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^ try the above but you also need to check/log desired vs actual fuel rail pressure. If its jumping around alot it could be a fpr going bad. I would also check the balance rates of the injectors and return rates.
 

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Okay, this morning I tried something on a hunch. I used the bleed pump to pressure the system up and then tried starting the truck. It started and ran perfectly. I guess my system is loosing pressure but I don't know where to start looking. A friend said the factory bleeder screws are bad about leaking so I replaced it with a billet one but the problems is still there. If the truck sits for several hours, it will start right up but die pretty quick. If I use a little throttle while starting to keep it idled up it does just fine. Any ideas?
 

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The bleeder screw seals with an O-ring...sealing it off before the screw bottoms out (so no need to torque it like a lug nut), and with it under vacuum draw, it's not coming loose.

So finger tight is all that's needed. Replacing with metal won't make it seal any better, but has a 'good feel' factor.

There are several seals in the filter head that can fail, the bleeder screw one, is only one spot.
You can 'try' a rebuild kit, but not all potential leak areas of the filter head are serviceable.

If the seal kit doesn't work, replace the whole head with a new one, also replacing the two fuel lines to and from it.

More rare than the filter head leaking, is the fuel module in the tank and the seal on the quick connect line there, on top of the tank.

Start with one, work to the next.
Always good in troubleshooting a start then die problem, is to check that primer button for firmness, so as to rule out loss of prime and a leak source aerating the fuel supply.
 
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