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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got my '06 LBZ 7/5/13 and put ~5000 miles on it within the first month and am absolutely loving it! Like others, this thread is just here to share what I plan on doing or have done with other like-minded Duramax addicts on here :)

Mods/repairs so far:
Bugflector II (real exciting, put it on the day I bought the truck)
Install Trailer plug in bed
7/4 ping trailer plug in bumper
EFI live with Edge CTS2 and EGT probe
Pacer performance 07.5-11 style smoked cab marker lights
MA PumpRub kit
TransGo Jr
New brake lines and Russell stainless hoses (thanks to WI road salt)
Painting the frame with POR-15 as I go

Planned mods:
Running boards/nerf bars (for the wife ;) )
New fuel lines (again, thanks to WI road salt) - just need to install
Exhaust
Nicktane fuel filter adapter
Lift Pump (somewhere down the road)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here she is after her first bath.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Pulled the air filter tonight. Does that say MARCH '06!?




 

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I have the exact same truck.. They look real gd blacked out!!!
 

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That filter is plugged man!!! Should see instant improvments with a new one
 

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What are your goals/plans for the truck??
 

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If yr air filter looks like that I'd def. Do feul as well. Real easy did mine in 10 min tops..
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks guys! Bought a new filter on eBay for $40 delivered! Installed last night.






I'm putting together a shopping list right now actually - have fuel and oil filters, WIF wrench, and a hose clamp to fix the steering clunk in my online cart :) Also will be purchasing the pump rub kit from MA!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Had some pretty bad radial oil spray on the bottom of the cab directly in-line with the t-case output shaft rear seal (As you can see, I wiped some of it off for comparison). At first I thought it was the seal, but it looks brand new. Cleaned it up real good, let it sit overnight and the next day saw a small dribble of oil. Appears to be the freeze plug in the end of the yoke. Dropped the shaft, cleaned it up real good with brake cleaner and a tooth brush, and sealed up the outside of the plug with some RTV from a suggestion I found on this forum! Yay, free repair! :thumb

https://photos.app.goo.gl/irRYArcwkXxggpRu2




Called and spoke to the local stealership this morning and the guy in service told me to grease the yoke that goes into the t-case, even though I told him TWICE that I have the 2-piece drive shaft. From what I've read, the yoke that goes into the T-case does not get greased, it uses the oil in the t-case. Only the slip yoke behind the carrier bearing needs the grease. He told me "White grease". I'm not so sure I believe him after the front yoke answer :-\ Am I wrong here? Can anyone back up my answer? :)

I've read about using marine grease for the slip yoke - anyone have any other recommendations?
 

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Same thing happened to mine. Thought it was the seal but it was leaking through the yoke. Bought the expensive factory Spicer replacement then added some epoxy to seal it from the inside.

Here is the old one
1376074406813.jpg


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Basically I did the same thing - but on the outside - and without buying a new yoke. Didn't have to remove the u-joint either! I'd think that epoxy inside would make it more difficult for that freeze plug to pop if it ever needed to. RTV on the outside should peel right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Saturday Evening's project - Bed trailer plug. Figured I have the wiring and an old plug, might as well wire it up :)

My #1 requirement was that it be located as high up in the bed as possible. I don't want to run the risk of hitting it with a shovel if I ever have a load of dirt/rock in the truck. Also didn't want the aforementioned dirt/rock crapping out the plug or getting in the lid hinge.

First I had to pull the wiring harness back from the front of the bed. I coiled up the excess above the rear wiring junction box and ran the rest up behind the left tail light.

Used a 1-3/4" hole saw and a metal grinding wheel to make the opening large enough.

Two things I would have done different:
1) Center the plug better (measure for center of hole) :cookoo[1]:
2) Mount it about 1/2" lower so wiring has more room.

Overall I think it looks great! :neener

Overall shot of tail light area

Close up of tail light - I bent the metal out a bit - hence the black touchup paint

Looks factory :)

Nice tight clearance with tailgate closed (yes, a plug fits, I tested it).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After finishing up the in-bed plug wiring, I decided to remove the plug from my hitch. It was bent forward and the plastic tabs on the socket were all busted anyway. I've ordered a Pollak 7pin/4pin combo and plan to mount it in the bumper later this week. Plus, it will need to be mounted somewhere else when I get a new hitch someday (I've seen the posts about these crappy factory hitches) :thumb

Before

Before

After

After - black touch up paint to the rescue again!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ignore the Wisconsin temporary... Still waiting on my permanent WA plates... Grrr.....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I finally got my plates!! Damn bank didn't factor the registration cost into the fees that they cut a check for, so WA DOL sent the paperwork back! Cost me an extra week and a half and $75.50 but now I can finally drive the truck again (Legally) :gearjamin

In other news -- here you can see the template for the bumper-mounted trailer wiring connector... stay tuned!

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bought a new, DECENT, hole saw set and promptly put it to use! The hole saw I used for the bed-mount connector is pretty much toast now since it was only for use in wood... oh well, it was cheap!

Anyway, I used the hole saw to cut out the round part and then used my new Makita oscillating tool to cut the straight cuts. Man that thing is awesome!!!





 

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