Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
There’s a local guy that will sandblast and epoxy prime and paint my frame of my lbz . It has flaking rust on it , so I want to get it taken care of . He doesn’t remove the cab , but will remove the bed and rear bumper . He said he’ll do it for $1100. Any comments? Is this a good idea ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
The sand will get everywhere!! In the body mounts, in the seals, in the bushings, in the cab........everywhere! If you’v ever sandblasted yourself, you know what I mean. Personally I’d only sandblast if the frame was completely disassembled and bare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The sand will get everywhere!! In the body mounts, in the seals, in the bushings, in the cab........everywhere! If you’v ever sandblasted yourself, you know what I mean. Personally I’d only sandblast if the frame was completely disassembled and bare.
So what step would you take if I’m not able to disassemble the entire truck ? Are there any shops that will wire bride and por 15 it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
I’m guessing you will have to do that yourself. Creeper, full Tyvek suit, headgear, scraper, wire brush and a week of vacation. Some disk wheels and wire brush wheels on a cordless drill or air tool would also be helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I’m guessing you will have to do that yourself. Creeper, full Tyvek suit, headgear, scraper, wire brush and a week of vacation.
And the sandblastwe guy told me there would be no issues , he said that if water doesn’t get in places than sand won’t... but looking it up it seems the majority say this isn’t a good idea
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
And the sandblastwe guy told me there would be no issues , he said that if water doesn’t get in places than sand won’t... but looking it up it seems the majority say this isn’t a good idea
water is also not typically sprayed at high velocity from all angles either.

The only time i would sand blast a frame is if 1, i only had a small section to do that i could issolate from everything else, and it was open enough to clean out, and there was no moving parts near it, or 2, the frame was torn down to just the frame, no moving parts, no bushings, nothing. Sand is an abrasive, if it can scrape rust off, think of the damage it would do inside a bearing. Heaven forbid he shoots any of that into a breather tube...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
Bad idea and I won't trust the guy who says it won't get into places that water doesn't. Think of the affect on wiring, brake lines, fuel lines etc. Besides unless it's a bare frame there's no way he can hit 100% of it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Bad idea and I won't trust the guy who says it won't get into places that water doesn't. Think of the affect on wiring, brake lines, fuel lines etc. Besides unless it's a bare frame there's no way he can hit 100% of it
There’s also a restoration shop that says they will take off bed and grind all rust off frame and paint it . They’d be leaving the cAb on . They said it would be about 50 hours labor ... at 80/hr. Does this seem high? I don’t have the time or space to do it myself . Anyone have any ideas that will work for me ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
There’s also a restoration shop that says they will take off bed and grind all rust off frame and paint it . They’d be leaving the cAb on . They said it would be about 50 hours labor ... at 80/hr. Does this seem high? I don’t have the time or space to do it myself . Anyone have any ideas that will work for me ?


i guess it depends on how thorough they are going to be. You eventually start running into diminishing returns. Pull the bed off and wire wheel the big stuff, a few hours. but if you want to get into every little place there is, well then the time is going to start stacking up real fast. A middle of the road might be best, assuming you are not trying to build a truck for SEMA. Get the big flaky stuff off, get the areas that are accessible, and then spray everything in rust converting primer so it encapsulates whats left then do you preferred method of top coat to protect the refreshed metal. As far as the rate per hour, that sounds pretty reasonable, last body shop i got a quote from was around 90-100 an hour. for 50 hours though, id expect that frame to be pretty friggin spotless when its done....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
598 Posts
As was said on another post about frame rust. I'll bet it's just undercoating and paint flaking off not really metal from the frame. As far as cost $80 shop labor isn't bad. I wouldn't be surprised if the shop cost total was more than the estimate unless they aren't going to remove any thing from the frame other than the box. If they are doing it that way it still won't be clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
As was said on another post about frame rust. I'll bet it's just undercoating and paint flaking off not really metal from the frame. As far as cost $80 shop labor isn't bad. I wouldn't be surprised if the shop cost total was more than the estimate unless they aren't going to remove any thing from the frame other than the box. If they are doing it that way it still won't be clean.
I’m
Hoping you are right ! Lol . I found a pretty decent size piece in the front end of the frame.
It was inside the rail
. Would undercoating be inside the frame as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,660 Posts
There was a guy on here who did his frame from the cab back in a weekend. It looked very nice when he was done. He took the bed off to do it. I think it was in the thread about what did you do to your sierra/silverado today.

This is a case where there is no really good, fast, cheap solution. I would think 15 hours aught to do it as good as it is likely to be done though. That would include significant tear down and cleaning up things like the rear springs and torsion bars. It would also include wrapping many things like the front suspension. It would also include protecting things like fuel and brake lines.

If it was my truck it wouldn't be sand in the blaster either. It would be something like walnut shells of plastic pellets. They will do the job and not leave as much abrasive behind. One thing about blasting is that it surface hardens the steel by compressing it and evening out any stresses in the surface so it is actually stronger than before.

POR 15 can be applied with a brush. I doesn't need any kind of special equipment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
I work in a body shop. Most frame replacements pay in the neighborhood of 30 hours. That's to completely strip everything off the existing frame and transfer to a new one. Of course they come painted/coated already, but even if you added a couple hours paint labor you're still in the mid to high 30's.

So 50 hours for a half a** job that doesn't even remove the cab? Hell no.

Speaking from experience, it sounds like they don't want the job so they are quoting you super high with the hopes you either won't do it, or if you do they are getting so much money for it that they will just suck it up and do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I work in a body shop. Most frame replacements pay in the neighborhood of 30 hours. That's to completely strip everything off the existing frame and transfer to a new one. Of course they come painted/coated already, but even if you added a couple hours paint labor you're still in the mid to high 30's.

So 50 hours for a half a** job that doesn't even remove the cab? Hell no.

Speaking from experience, it sounds like they don't want the job so they are quoting you super high with the hopes you either won't do it, or if you do they are getting so much money for it that they will just suck it up and do it.
Would a typical body shop do frame sanding and painting ? I don’t have the space to do it at my house
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top