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I ordered my EFI Live and a SDP EGR Delete friday from Dustin and in talking to him about the EGR delete kit he gave me a couple of options as to what to do about the passenger up pipe. One of the options was to remove the stock uppipe cut it and weld it closed which seems to be the best option since I would have to remove it anyway to put in a LB7 pipe or anything else and I have a welder and pretty good fabrication skills.

Anyway my question is this, are there any videos or write ups on removing the uppipe, and is there anything I need to know before hand, or is there maybe a simpler route that I need to take? Also does the SDP kit come with every thing else I need to do this?

This is my first Duramax so Ive still got a lot to learn, but Ive been glued to this forum for the last 3 weeks.

thanks JB
 

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The up-pipe bolts are really tight. Pull the wheel and take the fender liner out for easy access. Its best to have a buddy to help with the bolts on the turbo. One guy down below and the other laying on top to hold the socket on the bolts. Its 12 point 12mm. I suggest having a socket for a 1/2" drive breaker and a 3/8" drive ratchet. I forget what the torque spec is on install...something like 150 ft/lbs but I'm not 100%.

If you're going through the trouble of removing it, might as well replace it with an LB7 one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you're going through the trouble of removing it, might as well replace it with an LB7 one.
See I was thinking that since I had to remove it either way, that I would be better off saving the money and cutting it and welding it shut.

Thanks for the install advice, Im sure Ill have a few more grey hairs after Im done with this.

JB
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Has anyone used the cap from pro fab? I just dont want to create more problems for myself down the road. The stuff should be here by middle of the week and im just trying to get my ducks in a row.

JB
 

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Has anyone used the cap from pro fab? I just dont want to create more problems for myself down the road. The stuff should be here by middle of the week and im just trying to get my ducks in a row.

JB

What did you finally end up doing?
 

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I used the cap no issues at all..........................
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the 4 hole cap and installed it but I had a horrible squealing air leak....so i then decided to remove the uppipe and weld it shut, but I still had the squeal....I then figured out that I had accidentally tightened the intake pipe to y bridge with the wiring harness bracket in between the 2 flanges instead of on top which created a massive air leak and that was my problem all along.

I have NO DOUBT that the 4 bolt flange will work perfect and it will fully support the bellows.


I would sell the one i have for 15 bucks shipped if you need it.


JB
 

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Was it the 3-hole or 4-hole cap?
4 hole, so it acts just like the cooler is still there..........

No leaks yet..............

And it has been on the dyno.............
 

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I've got the 3-hole version, but I haven't installed it yet (just finishing up my EGR delete).
I'd definitely prefer the 4-hole design because it does mimic the OEM EGR cooler setup.

I had some issues with my EGR delete fitting so I'm not sure if I'll need to reverse it again until I figure out what to do.
 

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I've got the 3-hole version, but I haven't installed it yet (just finishing up my EGR delete).
I'd definitely prefer the 4-hole design because it does mimic the OEM EGR cooler setup.

I had some issues with my EGR delete fitting so I'm not sure if I'll need to reverse it again until I figure out what to do.
What issues are you having? I put a SDP delete on today,fit pretty well but, haven't started the engine yet because I'm having charging issues.
 

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What issues are you having? I put a SDP delete on today,fit pretty well but, haven't started the engine yet because I'm having charging issues.

Mine was a a Profab (RDL) EGR delete, not an SDP.
 

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I have the Profab EGR delete and I had a little trouble getting it to fit right at first aswell, but in the end I got it to fit good.
 

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I have the Profab EGR delete and I had a little trouble getting it to fit right at first aswell, but in the end I got it to fit good.

Just out of curiosity, what issues did you see during the install?

If you click on my link in post #14 you can see how I resolved the ones I encountered.
 

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I've had Rick's (ProFab) 4 hole cap on my truck for a few months now, no issues. I didn't want to mess with the up-pipe bolts right now, so I went this route, no regrets. Maybe when I do a 4094 or something, I'll replace with LB7 up-pipe. Chris
 

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Just out of curiosity, what issues did you see during the install?

If you click on my link in post #14 you can see how I resolved the ones I encountered.
I just looked at your link and I had the exact same problems as you while installing it. 1.The little hold down bracket seemed too big. 2.It wouldn't sit flush where it connects the the cast intake tube. I ended up loosening a few things and finally got that hold down bracket to fit. And after about 30 mins of moving everything around I finally got it to sit somewhat flush with the cast intake tube so I could get the bolt in, but only after stripping the threads on that cast tube and having to take everything back off and tapping the hole again... Overall it's a good looking product and you can get it to fit if you mess with it for a while, but I think it should be changed a little so it fits like stock.
 

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I've had Rick's (ProFab) 4 hole cap on my truck for a few months now, no issues. I didn't want to mess with the up-pipe bolts right now, so I went this route, no regrets. Maybe when I do a 4094 or something, I'll replace with LB7 up-pipe. Chris
I have done both the LLY's and /lmm............

The lbz, lmm, lml one has better fitment..........
 

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So to anyone out there. What do I need in addition to the sdp kit? I've heard something about heater hose? Do I need that? And anything else?
 
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