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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
03 GMC 2500HD bought 2 weeks ago, getting to know the truck i noticed a lot of things, some small, some large.

Here's what i know about the truck. It was used like a truck, dirty, messy, but overall truck is a B. Injectors were replaced 25,000 ago. Transmission was leaking, seal replaced 2,000 miles ago. Rotella oil and fram filters used. 158,000 on it.

I changed oil, oil filter and fuel filter and am about to change the glow plug relay. There are more nagging issues i'm having though and don't know where to start. I just want a truck that is as close to a clean slate as possible and the price i paid for this one, it's worth sinking a little bit into. I repeat a LITTLE BIT. I think it is either chipped or programmed, previous owner didn't know, only had it for 20,000 miles. It has a hypertech sticker in the back window, and at full throttle is more powerfull than my dad's 06 duramax and his '12 duramax. Only at full throttle though. It's like a 2-stroke powerband. nothing until at least 3/4 throttle, i can't even drift on snow because it falls on its face unless WOT... I'm taking it to a diesel shop on Wed to have them check it out and let me know anything, but i feel there is almost too much to do. The only thing that keeps me interested in this truck is that it starts every morning, -25 this morning with windchill in MN, drives straight, runs good, purrs like a kitten, good oil pressure etc...

Here's what i got going on that i know of, any advice would be appreciated. Right now it's blind leading the blind. It's my first diesel, i'd love it to last me another 200,000 miles, I just dont know where to start to lead it down the path to last me.

1.Front end clunk drivers side- wheel bearing, ball joint, both??
2.Soft brake pedal unless pumped or cold.
3.No get up and go unless full throttle, then it's insane fast.
4.Both ext cab doors need to be pulled super hard to open
5.Both front doors leak dead center up top, molding is all good
6.3rd gear shifts pretty hard unless warmed up
7.Local shop said it's leaking transmission fluid, but i don't see a puddle.
8.Heat doesnt seem like it blows very warm, or very high fan, Takes forever to get warm and hard to stay warm.
(it's the digital display screen for the controls)
9.Do i try get it reflashed at a dealership and reset everything back to normal?

Thanks again, i don't know where to start...


Ryan
 

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have you replaced the fuel filter? this could have to do with your throttle issue
 

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His post says he changed oil and fuel filters
 

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First check for stored codes. Might be a good time to have the dealer check the operation-- for problems.
 

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Id suggest hydroboost flush for the squishy brakes. Mine made a huge difference.
 

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I have same problem with ext cab doors, for your brakes, do a hydroboost flush, it will help your brakes and your powersteering. Its very easy, mine made a huge difference.
 

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Like the others said I'd start with a full hydro boost flush and a brake fluid flush. Brake fluid seems to be neglected often. Also since it's got weird power issues and harsh shift I'd have a stock flash done at the dealer and get all the other problems sorted out since you don't know who or what possible tuning it is. Then get EFI or look for a used PPE econ if you just want a canned tuner. Probably a coolant flush and possibly a set of thermostats to help with your heating issue. Check for rust behind the weather stripping over your doors for the source of the water leak.
 

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And just remember lb7s have a lot more turbo lag with the single geometry turbo. They are very poochy in stock form. But a 50+ hp tune and it runs like a dream with minimal wear on tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the replies. I will do a hydroboost flush. I've heard about it. I'm really on the fence about the flash, i really do love the power, it is crazy fast 0-60. i timed about 6.5 seconds... to me that is fast! As we speak, i have it at the local turbo diesel shop and i asked the guy if he could take it for a ride, see if he notices anything, and he is going to check the balance rates (doesn't haze, runs fine, just checking for my curiousity.) Doors looked fine to me, but i didnt pull the weatherstripping. It seems more like something is hanging up, I'm not sure if it's worth replacing all latches or not...

I do know what EFI Live is just from reading on here, but not sure what PPE Econ is, sorry i'm a newbie
 

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Well that's no good, how far out are they? Get you some injector cleaner if they are not too bad and you're not making oil and follow the DIY on injector cleaning. Also PPE Econ tuner is a canned tuner. PPE makes 3 or 4 different versions of the tuner for the Duramax but if all you want is some omph, and with out hurting a stock trans it's a great simple choice that lets you change the power between 3 different levels and correct speedometer for bigger tires. You can find em used for 300 or less.
 

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Try some Hot Shots Secret Stiction Eliminator. Its an oil additive and cures most injector failures if not to bad yet. Yours arent smoking and seems to run okay, i bet if you use some of that and also run the HSS fuel additive. You can hold those injectors off for a while. Also, recommend looking into lift pump with added filtration or get the nicktane adapter and get the 2 micron CAT fuel filter. Either of those 2 will save a lot of your injectors life whether you get them replaced or after you use that additive.
 

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Duramax injectors aren't fired off oil pressure like powerstrokes so the stiction eliminator isn't going to help. He could either us the gm injector cleaner or use some additive in the next few tanks to see if the balance rates level out. May also want to pick up an edge insight or some other kind of code reader/diagnostic tool so you can read your own codes and check your balance rates yourself.
 

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Duramax injectors aren't fired off oil pressure like powerstrokes so the stiction eliminator isn't going to help. He could either us the gm injector cleaner or use some additive in the next few tanks to see if the balance rates level out. May also want to pick up an edge insight or some other kind of code reader/diagnostic tool so you can read your own codes and check your balance rates yourself.
It doesnt work the same way as it does on,the Ford, but you only,need 1 quart of,it and its some strong stuff, it can help clean it out. I used them on mine while mine was smoking at an idle and now it doesnt smoke at all
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys, I might have to try that. I bought this truck to replace my 03 gas that was nickle and diming me, now i think i'm in an even worse postition.

balance rates are as follows
1:3
5:5
6:-3
8:4

My guess is the guy who had it before me had a couple replaced and stayed cheap. The truck doesn't haze, runs fine. I don't see how they could be that far out of wack and not show some type of sign.

The only other thing that could throw them off from my understanding is if the piston bowl has started to warp, but theres no way all 4 could have warped, and there isn't a knock.

I think i'm going to try it and get rid of it. Love the power, but aside from that, 11 mpg with it right now. I can barely afford to drive it, let alone sink a bunch of money into it.

Just noticed this morning that it's got a small drip of tranny fluid and had my service brake lights come on this morning as well.

This thing is a nightmare!!
 

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Definitely shouldnt be 11mpg unless your hammering down on it constantly. Good luck with what you do, just make sure you research everything before you buy. Otherwise you might be 5k in and still not fixed. If you trust yourself mechanically, an injector job cab be done by yourself with good tools and some specialty tools.
 

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The service brake lights is probably just for the emergency brake, mine did that
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Definitely shouldnt be 11mpg unless your hammering down on it constantly. Good luck with what you do, just make sure you research everything before you buy. Otherwise you might be 5k in and still not fixed. If you trust yourself mechanically, an injector job cab be done by yourself with good tools and some specialty tools.
That's just the thing, I don't hammer on it. Maybe once or twice on a tank of fuel. My hand calculation puts it at 11-13 at best. I'm trying to research everything. I trust myself mechanically with the right tools, but i just don't see the value in dumping 5k into this thing. It seems like everything i buy shits the bed a week after i get it. I'm sure i could do the injectors with the right tools, but i'm not sure its worth it. Unless i win the lottery, i think this truck has to go. I appreciate all the advice! And for the brakes, the light just went off 2 minutes ago, i went and checked.

Thanks again,

Ryan
 

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Ive had mine for 13,000 miles. Its got 195k now. It runs awesome. Only maintenance ive done is fix the cv shaft i snapped doing boosted launch and power steering for abusing it doing donuts. Youre better off dping the injectors and keeping it. It will pay off. Other than getting rid of it with,injector problems
 
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