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2016 Duramax LTZ, bone stock.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy, everyone. I'm really in a bind with a current electrical issue I am having and I need to try to fix it before the weekend when I tow my fifth wheel out of town.

My truck has been making a clicking sound when I press the brake pedal (like a relay switch type of click, very audible) and when it does this, several other issues happen, too. The interior lights will flash, the service StabiliTrak message pops up, and the service airbag message, and now my windows won't even roll back up (which is a new problem). I also cannot lock or unlock my doors with either the buttons on the doors or the key fob.

Currently, I can roll the driver's side front and rear windows up and down with only the driver's side door buttons.

All these issues have been intermittent and sometimes it happens as soon as I start it, sometimes it goes days without it happening, and other times it happens while I'm driving.

No matter when this occurs, the truck always drives and brakes and steers just fine. The AC and heat stay on, and all the dash and screen lights and everything still functions just fine.

When this problem happens it will also make the rear cigarette lighter power go in and out when I press the brake and I know this because it powers my boy's DVD player and they definitely let me know.

Sometimes when this happens I can't use my right turn signal either. Only the right turn signal and it will give the failure alert or whichever way it reads on the display.

I would greatly appreciate anyone's help on this as I don't even know where to start.


I found several grounds this morning. All were snug but I brushed and tightened all of them and it, unfortunately, didn't fix anything.

Here are the locations of the grounds:
one on the engine block passenger side
one under the engine on the frame drive's side
one on the frame near the front tire-ish area on the driver's side
one in the rear on the driver's side in front of the rear tire
two on top of the dash near the windshield corners behind the little speakers (located these after reading about a common problem with the sound dampening material being stuck under those grounds)

I've also cleaned all my battery connections and tested both batteries. No blown fuses anywhere either that I could find.

Thank ya'll for any help. I'm headed to get my Aggie Ring on Friday which is a lifelong dream and I'm supposed to pull my camper down there for the weekend.
 

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Look for a ground point on the engine side of the firewall near the brake MC that runs down to the back of the engine. Many of those fail. If that particular ground has failed, just run a wire to any vacant bolt hole on the block. Too hard to reach the back of the head. A quick test to see if that one is causing the problem is to use a jumper from the ground point to the battery negative terminal. In essence, you are attaching a temporary ground around the existing ground.
Ground points, electrical diagrams, how your truck starts and runs available in the electrical manual for your year and model of truck here: GM UPFITTER - Body Builder Manuals

If you have anything inserted into the DLC, remove it; any aftermarket radio pull the fuse for it. Diagnose the problem without those two items
 

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Registered
2016 Duramax LTZ, bone stock.
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, fellas, my issue wasn't a ground wire or the BCM. The shop found only 3volts at my fuse box under the hood and said it was fried. I guess it's still possible that there is a ground problem somewhere that ends up frying this fuse box too but neither the shop nor I have found one. Hoping for the best tomorrow when I pick it up.
 

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2016 Duramax LTZ, bone stock.
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wanted to follow up on here and let everyone know that the dealership found where it was the connection at the fuse box that had fried and in the process fried part of the fuse box itself. They replaced both the connector and the fuse box and I've been driving it for a week now with no problems. I appreciate everyone's help on here and I look forward to participating in more chats.
 

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Thanks for posting the fix.
 

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2016 Duramax LTZ, bone stock.
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update:

I am back to square one and possibly worse...

Turned the key today, dash lights flickered for a split second, and then I lost power literally to everything. Then after fiddling with the key fob lock/unlock buttons and turning the key in the ignition several times I started to get ALL of the flickering lights, alerts, and everything else that was happening before.

This time it's added the dash lights and main screen display into the flickering.

Stepping out of the truck after several minutes of not touching anything, there was a rapid clicking sound coming from underneath the truck roughly around the transmission or somewhere around there.

Going back to the dealership as soon as I can get it towed...
 
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