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alright so I have a 2004.5 2500hd and I cannot seem to figure some things out. First I have replaced all four tires with brand new nittos and have the wheels aligned and replaced the steering shaft and bearing. And replaced the rear u joint. But at take off with a decent pedal I get this shake/shimmy in the rear I feels like. And when I get up to 55mph the truck has a almost hop to it but kinda seems to do it more so when the tc is locked in 5th. And when i slow down and make a right turn the driver side wheels clicks and pops dose it when i hit a bump with the left front wheels as well. I have tried many things to figure out both with no luck but the shimmy on take off just started the day aftertye rear u joint was replaced
 

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Sounds like the rear shaft was clocked wrong when you put it back in.
 

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Did you replace both rear u-joints?
 

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Sounds like the rear shaft was clocked wrong when you put it back in.
Can you clock them wrong? Mine's a 2012 but when I had it out last year, I thought there was one special spline so that the shafts had to be aligned to slide the slip yoke back on the splined shaft?

Mine used to shimmy on take off but quit by about 10 or 15 mph. I think my issue was the splines on the shaft needed to be lubed.
 

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Yes they can be clocked wrong, it isn't easy but I had that happen on a cross country trip a few years ago. I had to have the truck towed to a GMC dealer in KC the tow truck driver removed the rear driveshaft for towing. When the tech replaced the shaft he forced it on clocked wrong. I lived with the shimmy until I got back home. Took it to a dealer that found the problem. The dealer in KC paid for the repair.😀Which included a new carrier bearing and a new yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I only replaced the rear u joint connecting to the axle. I also did it on the ground. Has 6in of lift. Marked everything with a paint pen so I made sure it was back the way it came off. I did not however grease the splines going back into the transfer case. But it didn't start the shimmy until 2 days after it was changed.
 

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I only replaced the rear u joint connecting to the axle. I also did it on the ground. Has 6in of lift. Marked everything with a paint pen so I made sure it was back the way it came off. I did not however grease the splines going back into the transfer case. But it didn't start the shimmy until 2 days after it was changed.
So you have a one piece driveline. I was talking about a two piece with a carrier bearing.
 

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Yes they can be clocked wrong, it isn't easy but I had that happen on a cross country trip a few years ago. I had to have the truck towed to a GMC dealer in KC the tow truck driver removed the rear driveshaft for towing. When the tech replaced the shaft he forced it on clocked wrong. I lived with the shimmy until I got back home. Took it to a dealer that found the problem. The dealer in KC paid for the repair.😀Which included a new carrier bearing and a new yoke.
Jesus Christ. How big was the f’n hammer that guy used to accomplish that? I’m here to tell you, you would have to beat the damn thing together to actually do that. Holy hell. 😣

I only replaced the rear u joint connecting to the axle. I also did it on the ground. Has 6in of lift. Marked everything with a paint pen so I made sure it was back the way it came off. I did not however grease the splines going back into the transfer case. But it didn't start the shimmy until 2 days after it was changed.
So replace the front joint on the rear shaft. Never just put one joint in. Also make sure the slip yoke moves freely on the transfer case output shaft splines. After that, have a driveline shop check your driveshaft working angles.
 

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Jesus Christ. How big was the f’n hammer that guy used to accomplish that? I’m here to tell you, you would have to beat the damn thing together to actually do that. Holy hell. 😣


As a matter of fact I was standing out back of the shop where they let the towtruck driver park my 5th wheel overnight. I could hear someone pounding on something in the shop, it was the tech working on my truck. Guess I should have said something, but was just wanting to get back on the road.
 

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Take your driveshaft out and take it to a driveline shop. They will make sure your u-joints are ok and they will balance the driveshaft and then in one piece put it back in the truck that should take care of any driveline vibration. We use rocky mountain driveline here in Denver they are great. Whoever replaced u-joints should have marked positions of the yokes to get them back to where they were. There is no right way to put it on the t-case or transmission depending on 4x4 or 2x4 there is only assembly faults that throw it off balance hope you figure it out
 
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