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Trucks should be level when the trailer you are towing is attached.
Just my opinion.
For those of you who lift the front of your truck, aim headlights please.
 
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PSI in your rear tires also make a huge difference.
Your probably looking at around 50-55 psi in your rear tires being the best setting for ride when empty, and the Sulastic shackles both will help when not towing.
If you do the chalk method you'll figure out the best psi for ride and tire wear.
Mark the tires like pictured below (sidewalk chalk works pretty good) then drive 100-200 yards on a flat pavement surface to check out the wear pattern.
If its pretty even chalk wear (y)
If its wearing more in the middle, you have too much air in the tires (n) you'll be a human bobble head.
If the wear pattern is more on the outsides you don't have enough air in your tires (n)
Mines a SRW 60-65 fronts 50-52 rears when empty, when towing 65 fronts 80 rears.
That's a neat trick. I'll have to give that a shot. For me though, I don't think I can manage running the pressures that low. I'm thinking the TPMS would be triggered on the rear.
 

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Trucks should be level when the trailer you are towing is attached.
Just my opinion.
For those of you who lift the front of your truck, aim headlights please.
First thing I did after installing my lift kit and bigger tires was re-aim my headlights.

Waited until it got dark, went to the backside of the Walmart building, got the front of my truck very close the wall, used tape to mark the headlight levels, backed up 100 ft, then properly repositioned both of my headlights.

If you install a lift or level your truck ... don’t be a d-ck ... properly re-aim your headlights ... it‘s easy to do.

Now ... that doesn’t help those in cars when you pull up behind them at a stoplight ... truck is so tall that the headlights shine right in their mirrors.

For this reason I turn my headlights off at the stoplight if there is a car right in front of me ... it’s the courteous thing to do.

Amazing how many inconsiderate a-sholes out there think it’s funny blinding other drivers ... :mad: ... always tempts me to take the covers off my roll bar lights and teach them how it feels. 😉
 
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PSI in your rear tires also make a huge difference.
Your probably looking at around 50-55 psi in your rear tires being the best setting for ride when empty, and the Sulastic shackles both will help when not towing.
If you do the chalk method you'll figure out the best psi for ride and tire wear.
Mark the tires like pictured below (sidewalk chalk works pretty good) then drive 100-200 yards on a flat pavement surface to check out the wear pattern.
If its pretty even chalk wear (y)
If its wearing more in the middle, you have too much air in the tires (n) you'll be a human bobble head.
If the wear pattern is more on the outsides you don't have enough air in your tires (n)
Mines a SRW 60-65 fronts 50-52 rears when empty, when towing 65 fronts 80 rears.
Yep ... mine is a SRW 3500HD ... used my kids sidewalk chalk.

60 psi front and 60 psi rear when not towing (auxiliary fuel tank and tools in the back all the time)

70 psi front and 80 psi rear when towing (travel trailer Equal-i-zer anti-sway weight distribution hitch transfers some of the tongue weight to the front wheels of truck)

Amazing how even your tires wear performing this easy trick ... which most people have never even heard of.
 

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That's a neat trick. I'll have to give that a shot. For me though, I don't think I can manage running the pressures that low. I'm thinking the TPMS would be triggered on the rear.
Tidbit: The 3500HD‘s (like mine) in the 2019 and previous models do not have TPMS sensors ... unlike the 2500HD’s. However ... if you decide to add a different tuner to your truck ... look at the Pulsar ... it has the functionality to modify your TPMS settings To run lower pressures. Or give it some time ... heard the Derringer is looking at adding that feature in the future.

Side Note: Heard the 2020-2021 model year 3500HD’s now have TPMS sensors just like the 2500HD’s.
 

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Just kindly wanted to mention something to think about when hitting potholes regarding the reduced clearance between the upper control arms and the bump stop. Especially since you recently made this change to your truck and should be able to feel a ride difference in the next few months. If it feels rougher when you hit the potholes, clearance is probably insufficient.
I made all the changes at once - in September or October of 2019 - so I've got some time on it already. So far, so good.


However, I am definitely glad to see you did it right by not exceeding 2 inches of lift, which causes all sorts of more serious angle & clearance issues.
I did the same on my '02, 1.75". I never push things to the max, I prefer to stay well below the limit. Increases longevity and lowers the risk of failures.


That is our travel trailer in the background. ~8k unloaded, ~10k loaded with water & gear, 34.5 ft long. I installed a set of Airlift air bags with a wireless controller on the rear suspension of my truck shortly after purchasing it new. Therefore I am able to get my truck back to level with the trailer attached simply by adding air pressure to the air bags using the wireless remote control.
That sounds like a slick option. I used a mechanical WD hitch for my TT - the type with metal bars - so I adjusted height/load that way. It was only 28 feet though, so quite a bit shorter and lighter than yours.


And you are right GM takes forever to pull their head out of their a-s. I am dealing with one of those ridiculous issues right now because GM left no way in the L5P ECM programming to change the axle ratio. So there is no way for those with lift kits and bigger tires to install the correct drive ratios without spending thousands of dollars on an unlocked ECM and aftermarket software / tuning. But I will be danged if GM is going to control me on what I can do with my truck ... where there is a will ... there is a way. I should have one of the first L5P’s with the factory ECM intact running a 4.30 axle ratio by the end of next week. Really looking forward to RV season with the proper axle ratio for 35 inch tires.
I'd love to know how you solved that one with GM. My tires are about the same size as yours - 34.8" according to Cooper - and I can't find a way to recalibrate so the speedometer/ABS/shift points are back to where they should be.
 

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For those of you who lift the front of your truck, aim headlights please.
First thing I did after installing my lift kit and bigger tires was re-aim my headlights.

Waited until it got dark, went to the backside of the Walmart building, got the front of my truck very close the wall, used tape to mark the headlight levels, backed up 100 ft, then properly repositioned both of my headlights.
Yup, me too. I did something surprisingly similar to your process as well. It was even more important in my mind because I also swapped the factory HID's for 55k 35w Morimoto's. I can't stand it when someone blasts me with misaligned lights so I sure as heck am not going to do it to anyone else.
 
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Yup, me too. I did something surprisingly similar to your process as well. It was even more important in my mind because I also swapped the factory HID's for 55k 35w Morimoto's. I can't stand it when someone blasts me with misaligned lights so I sure as heck am not going to do it to anyone else.
Forgot to mention I did the exact same thing ... Morimoto HID’s bulb replacements for the low beams ... still remember what a pain mounting the ballasts were.

The factory projector headlights with incandescent bulbs that come on on these trucks are terrible regarding visibility at night.
 

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I made all the changes at once - in September or October of 2019 - so I've got some time on it already. So far, so good.




I did the same on my '02, 1.75". I never push things to the max, I prefer to stay well below the limit. Increases longevity and lowers the risk of failures.




That sounds like a slick option. I used a mechanical WD hitch for my TT - the type with metal bars - so I adjusted height/load that way. It was only 28 feet though, so quite a bit shorter and lighter than yours.




I'd love to know how you solved that one with GM. My tires are about the same size as yours - 34.8" according to Cooper - and I can't find a way to recalibrate so the speedometer/ABS/shift points are back to where they should be.
My tires (285/75R18 = 34.8”) should be the exact same size as yours ... Les Schwab’s Open Range tires are made by Sumitomo and are 35.1” when new (w/ 0.7” tread depth) ... so I just round them to 35’s.

Regarding the ECM ... there are companies out there now who will only unlock your ECM if that is all you want. Then you can purchase the software form them, someone else, etc. to first save your factory tune, purchase pre-built tunes (sport / tow / etc.) or build your own tune. What I like is keeping your factory ECM so it still matches your truck (no exchange program where you get a different ECM). This is very similar to what others are doing with HP Tuners ... but my setup will not be an HP Tuners setup. Unfortunately that is all the information I can share right now because I am getting a beta test unit for a new product that should be coming out later this year ... so I promised the manufacturer to keep the details confidential until they release the product. Just hoping most of the bugs have been worked out before I get the beta test unit ... tired of being the guinea pig on this project.
 

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You sir, are a braver man than I. Good luck and God speed. Just be dam sure you have a path back to the point before you started. Don't let them screw with your computer, let them provide you one. That way if you need to dump them and go the HP tuners route, you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I got 20 mpg today doing 130 miles calculating from (diesel) station to (diesel) station. Higher than the computer aswell haha. 80psi in the rear and front though, so riding the horse down the highway
 

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80 psi in a 3500, geeze, did it feel like a pogo stick? Lol!
UPS man dropped off a present today...

20210126_204146.jpg
 
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You sir, are a braver man than I. Good luck and God speed. Just be dam sure you have a path back to the point before you started. Don't let them screw with your computer, let them provide you one. That way if you need to dump them and go the HP tuners route, you can.
Edge (Powerteq) told me my truck is done and my cruise control works again. They are located about 60 miles north of me ... so I will go get my truck over lunchtime tomorrow. They me a 2018 Ram 2500 Big Horn package to drive while mine was being worked on ... and man am I ready to have my High Country back. Will update more on the ECM solution tomorrow evening once I have it back.
 
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I can assure you with absolute certainty I am not notching the bed. I will either cut the heads off the existing bolts, or loosen the bed and allow it to lift out of the way. I already have spare bolts on the way as well. The truth is, it might be a month or so before I install them. My truck doesn't fit all the way in my buddies garage with a lift so we have to leave the door open. The garage is attached to the house, so he would prefer if we wait.
The shocks will be here this Friday, and I will do that with stands and a jack.
Yes, some people will say I can do the shackles on stands and a jack, but I've made my decision, I'm doing that job on a lift.
 
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80 psi in a 3500, geeze, did it feel like a pogo stick? Lol!
UPS man dropped off a present today...

View attachment 1084040
They are one of the best aftermarket add-ons on my truck.

I could immediately tell they made a difference after installation ... but I really started to appreciate them after a couple months of drive time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I’m afraid if I take them to a shop they will notch the bed. I guess I can ask them how they would install them.
 

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They are one of the best aftermarket add-ons on my truck.

I could immediately tell they made a difference after installation ... but I really started to appreciate them after a couple months of drive time.
I believe you, you sold me on them. So you'll also be to blame if I'm not happy. What's your return policy on the free advice you offer? 🤪
 

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I’m afraid if I take them to a shop they will notch the bed. I guess I can ask them how they would install them.
Oh I would most certainly be worried as well. Even if the shop told me they wouldn't notch the bed, I still wouldn't let the truck leave my sight during the install.
 
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