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Well it's your truck do what ya like! Haha, I don't even have to look at it. I'm not at all sure what happened to this thread, but it kinda became a mess. Just do what makes you happy. I've got some Dana's off a 94 bronco I'll sell ya lol. Nah but seriously, I'm sure it'll be badass when it's all done.


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I'd rather buy an atlas II if it came down to it.
You could buy 5 Np205's for the cost of one NV263, You're only going to have issues if you launch a lot. The 10 spline 205's are more prone to breaking for obvious reasons however the 32 spline input are much stronger. You can find 205 parts everywhere, NV263...not so much.
I have ZERO experience with the atlas cases, but im kinda thinking its still not going to stand up to the horsepower that the 263 will, there just not suited for it. The Atlas is a case for guys who are wheeling, im gonna go out on a limb and say its not going to hold up in a 1000 horse drag o pull truck.

I dont see how you can say parts for the 205 are readily available while parts cant be found for the 263. Repair parts for the 263 is just as easily obtainable as for a 205. The reason they dont make any beef up parts for the 263 is pretty much because they dont break as long as the pump is functioning. Seriously, any one who needs to ditch a NV263 for something beefier is more than likely going to a drop box like an STS.

I agree there. I'm not particularly into putting solid axles on dmaxes anyways. I have Dana 60's on my 94 bronco, and I tell ya, all that extra weight....really shows up. I'm not sure if the truck the OP is talking about is his dd, but if it is, I wouldn't go with an sas. Just my .02, and preference but to each his own.

EH, again, he Aquiles heal of the IFS is that CV joint. With good angles its 10 times stronger than a 1480 series wheeljoint, but put that CV shaft out at the end of its travel and it gets weak.


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No could you go in depth more please??


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Your going to have to take both apart and see for yourself. Once you have disassembled one of each. the differences will be pretty apparent and you will probably feel like a clown for even disagreeing.
 

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I have ZERO experience with the atlas cases, but im kinda thinking its still not going to stand up to the horsepower that the 263 will, there just not suited for it. The Atlas is a case for guys who are wheeling, im gonna go out on a limb and say its not going to hold up in a 1000 horse drag o pull truck.
I agree. The NP263's simply DONT FREAKING BREAK. They just dont! How could an atlas be any better??? (rhetorical question)

Thats like saying "well my truck needs to go at least 100mph to beat this punk who wants to race me, because thats how fast his truck goes. Last week I had my truck up to 130mph on several different occasions. I think I need more power to beat this kid, what can I do to make my truck faster".

You will break every single other component in the driveline (axles, u-joints, driveshafts, transmission hard parts, differentials, stock dmax engine internals, etc) before you break a stock NP261/NP263. They are literally bulletproof (once you fix the pump-rub problem).
 

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Very true. But again, you put the wrong angles on any cv shaft, and it's screwed. That's just the way the game goes.


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Check Toby's kit from xXx Traction. It's a little more money, but it's well worth it.
His kit uses the 05 and newer Super Duty D60. These axles are way beefier than earlier year D60's. I know there will be people on here that will like to argue that (because the're ball joint. But these ball joints are bigger).
For the transfer case I'm running a 273. That bitch is stout as hell and is big. I have wheeled the hell out of my truck with this current set up.

Like I said before there are people on here that will bitch and argue saying that other set ups would be stronger.

I had an 89 kingpin D60 on my truck. It did well... Just wanted a more of a stout axle.
The 263 was a piece of shit. I destroyed that damn thing.
 

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Check Toby's kit from xXx Traction. It's a little more money, but it's well worth it.
His kit uses the 05 and newer Super Duty D60. These axles are way beefier than earlier year D60's. I know there will be people on here that will like to argue that (because the're ball joint. But these ball joints are bigger).
For the transfer case I'm running a 273. That bitch is stout as hell and is big. I have wheeled the hell out of my truck with this current set up.

Like I said before there are people on here that will bitch and argue saying that other set ups would be stronger.

I had an 89 kingpin D60 on my truck. It did well... Just wanted a more of a stout axle.
The 263 was a piece of shit. I destroyed that damn thing.
Sounds like the best deal to me.


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I got a few things to say yes this rig is my daily driver but i love to go off roading and when i drop it in 4x4 my foot always goes thru the floor also i look at the reliability stand point in my past a solid could take more abuse then ifs if this truck wasnt my dd i would just thru rockwell 2 1/2 under it
Also how did it get into t-cases so much lol
You will be happy with the swap for what your doing. We got into t-cases because some clown was promoting the 205, which is flat out not adequate for use in a turned up Dmax.

Check Toby's kit from xXx Traction. It's a little more money, but it's well worth it.
His kit uses the 05 and newer Super Duty D60. These axles are way beefier than earlier year D60's. I know there will be people on here that will like to argue that (because the're ball joint. But these ball joints are bigger).
For the transfer case I'm running a 273. That bitch is stout as hell and is big. I have wheeled the hell out of my truck with this current set up.

Like I said before there are people on here that will bitch and argue saying that other set ups would be stronger.

I had an 89 kingpin D60 on my truck. It did well... Just wanted a more of a stout axle.
The 263 was a piece of shit. I destroyed that damn thing.
Unfortunately the SAS zealots dont understand that the front diff and t-case on these things will live at 1000 horsepower for quite a while with no more than a pump rub kit and some good steering parts. Like Ben said the 263s dont break. If you trashed yours i would bet money that it was an underlying pump failure. The pumps do not always chew a hole in the case, sometimes they just wear the side of the pump out and cease pumping fluid.

Although i have to admit the 271 is a good t-case and an excellent choice for a SAS. Flanged out puts front and back, the drop on the case is longer giving you room to get a bigger Double cardan past the allison as wiggling the 1350 series in with a 263 is TIGHT.
 

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^^^^ I agree with you to a certain extent... If all precautionary steps have been taken with replacing the weak links for stronger ones. Then things SHOULD hold up for some time.

My 263 did not have a hole worn/ chewed in to the case. The case was just a housing for a bunch of broken parts. I only received a hundred bucks for the case a lone (core charge). And nothing for the destroyed parts with in it.
 

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^^^^ I agree with you to a certain extent... If all precautionary steps have been taken with replacing the weak links for stronger ones. Then things SHOULD hold up for some time.

My 263 did not have a hole worn/ chewed in to the case. The case was just a housing for a bunch of broken parts. I only received a hundred bucks for the case a lone (core charge). And nothing for the destroyed parts with in it.
I understand it did not have a hole worn through the case, but neither did the 263 in the 8.1 truck i had that looked as though someone had swept a machine shop floor up and dumped all the chips/filings in. When i split it, i had found that the pump had chewed up the inside of the case enough to where it was working around and the rotor inside the pump itself had worn through the side of the pump, so while it never rubbed a hole in the case, the pump still failed. It never leaked fluid externally, but was still a pump failure. Without the pump to circulate the fluid, its not going to last very long even if its full.

Now for every last piece in your housing to be junk, and not experience a specific failure such as broken input or output, toasted planetary, one or 2 bad bearings etc. I would like to believe that was still a pump failure.
 

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I understand it did not have a hole worn through the case, but neither did the 263 in the 8.1 truck i had that looked as though someone had swept a machine shop floor up and dumped all the chips/filings in. When i split it, i had found that the pump had chewed up the inside of the case enough to where it was working around and the rotor inside the pump itself had worn through the side of the pump, so while it never rubbed a hole in the case, the pump still failed. It never leaked fluid externally, but was still a pump failure. Without the pump to circulate the fluid, its not going to last very long even if its full.

Now for every last piece in your housing to be junk, and not experience a specific failure such as broken input or output, toasted planetary, one or 2 bad bearings etc. I would like to believe that was still a pump failure.
Pump failure is very possible. I did not take it a part to isolate the cause. When I did my initial sas on my truck. I went a lazy/cheap route. And kept a slip yoke on the front driveline. I had an incredible amount of suspension travel. That old driveshaft was only so long. A couple of times the suspension would be fully dropped, the shaft would slide out of the t-case. I wheeled a handful of more times since then. One day driving to and from work. I felt a horrible vibration. And isolated it to the t-case. So, instead of rebuilding it, doing the pump rub upgrade and sye kit. I opted to go the 273 route.
 

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Pump failure is very possible. I did not take it a part to isolate the cause. When I did my initial sas on my truck. I went a lazy/cheap route. And kept a slip yoke on the front driveline. I had an incredible amount of suspension travel. That old driveshaft was only so long. A couple of times the suspension would be fully dropped, the shaft would slide out of the t-case. I wheeled a handful of more times since then. One day driving to and from work. I felt a horrible vibration. And isolated it to the t-case. So, instead of rebuilding it, doing the pump rub upgrade and sye kit. I opted to go the 273 route.

That is another pitfall of the 263 for SAS guys. The front output on the 263 Just isn't designed to travel. It will wear out like the slip joint in a driveshaft will. I would actually really like to build a SFA chevy, but i think i would start with a 2wd truck and scrounge up a divorced 271 out of a 4wd 4500/kodiak. But, with my current budget and schedule i dont see me owning or building a 3rd truck anytime soon.
 

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That is another pitfall of the 263 for SAS guys. The front output on the 263 Just isn't designed to travel. It will wear out like the slip joint in a driveshaft will. I would actually really like to build a SFA chevy, but i think i would start with a 2wd truck and scrounge up a divorced 271 out of a 4wd 4500/kodiak. But, with my current budget and schedule i dont see me owning or building a 3rd truck anytime soon.
That is what I should have done... Shoulda, woulda, coulda... I made my choices and have made them work for my needs.

Back on topic, to the OP. I would do more research. Way the pro's and con's. What your needs are. Another company you could check out is WFO Concepts. They do kits for the older D60's, a long with the newer Super Duty D60's.
 

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Ok guys am new to diesels and I just bought 03 lb7 crew cab with a solid axle swap. My question is what kinda brakes do I get it's a high pinion Dana 60 of 79 ford with disc brakes so will normal oversized brakes work like I had on my old silverado? Any help would be nice
 

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Alright cool thanks I'll check that out.
 

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Will do I have brakes on the truck but need new set and they r disc I just want to know if I can just buy normal oversized brakes for it
 
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