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Did you lose your brakes as well ?
When my gearbox went , my brake pedal went to the floor . What actually went bad in the gearbox ? I would think that if it went bad wouldn’t it be harder to turn ? (Losing power steering ) . Are you sure your driveshaft didn’t disconnect ? When the wheels just spinning freely it would seem like ew drive shaft isn’t connected to the gearbox
Well crap... I didn’t look that close. Now I’m dying to get home so I can look. The brakes still worked fine... there was no fluid leaking or dripping from anywhere... there was NO SOUND! I could hear or feel anything, so I just assumed it was internal. In my defense, my truck has no muffler and the tail pipe dumps under the cab (NOT my mod) so it is VERY loud, even just at idle. Nothing was moving around the gear box looking at it from the front of the truck. I didn’t think to look from the other angle. Thank you for that perspective... I will report back in a few hours after work.
We’re you able to look underneath ? Im still curious If the gearbox was bad
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Thats the same kind of service i got when i called them years ago, its hard to argue with that. Customer service is usually the first thing to go in a company thats not doing things "right".

As stated elsewhere in this thread, they are still remans, so you might get a bad one here and there, but the 1 that i got was flawless. Even when i called them back to complain about what i thought was a bad gear box, they were very polite and helpful. On that topic..... lock tight the steering gear bolts.... lot and lots of it, get all the grease off the threads first, and lock tight lock tight lock tight. ask me how i know.
That's great to hear, and yes... they are still rebuilds, so I'll be very aware and quick to say something if necessary. And like you said, the "almost the same name" is a total FU to the company that helped teach you so much. Sad, really.

Thanks for the lock-tight recommendation... but come on, man! You gotta tell! I love a good story ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #44
We’re you able to look underneath ? Im still curious If the gearbox was bad
Sorry for the late reply... yes, the intermediate shaft is still in place and seems tight, so it has to be inside the gear box. It is almost as if whatever is inside turned to dust... I can't hear anything grinding or really anything at all, or maybe something sheared off inside?
 

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We’re you able to look underneath ? Im still curious If the gearbox was bad
Sorry for the late reply... yes, the intermediate shaft is still in place and seems tight, so it has to be inside the gear box. It is almost as if whatever is inside turned to dust... I can't hear anything grinding or really anything at all, or maybe something sheared off inside?
Interesting . Not sure if it can still happen when attached to the
Gearbox , gut just in case, you should be careful when spinning the wheel to not damage the clock spring !
 

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That's great to hear, and yes... they are still rebuilds, so I'll be very aware and quick to say something if necessary. And like you said, the "almost the same name" is a total FU to the company that helped teach you so much. Sad, really.

Thanks for the lock-tight recommendation... but come on, man! You gotta tell! I love a good story ;)
not too much of a story, but i had really bad play in the steering wheel like i had before i replaced the gear box so i thought it had died again..... then in the parking lot of a home depot i got irritated at it and i had the wife turn the steering wheel while i looked for the play.... turns out the whole gear box was moving close to an inch side to side because the bolts had backed off. I did use locktight, but clearly i either did not get the bolts clean enough, or i did not use enough of it. Ran into home depot, bought a socket, wrench, and 4oz of lock tight and fixed it in the parking lot (no i did not use all 4 oz).
 

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I just went through the same thing with an '06 GMC 2500HD I purchased earlier this year. It had 150k on it, decent paint, a really clean interior and ran well. Had a 6" lift, new 35" Toyo R/T's, dual King shocks, CST upper arms, but the front end was completely shot, steering was super sketchy and it needed a few other things. Here's what I did, as I always buy the best parts that I can afford, and always do my own work.

Dorman steering column bearing
new GM/AC Delco 'updated' intermediate steering shaft
2 DMax Store HD tie rods (inner/outer)
new CST upper A-arm poly bushings (CST tubular control arms)
Upper balljoints
Moog hub bearings
Cardone 'HD' CV axles
Bilstein steering stabilizer
Energy Suspension sway bar endlink bushings
flushed the power steering system & added a Derale cooler.

Night and Day difference in handling/steering after throwing some parts at it, along with a front end alignment. The G80 rear diff was on it's way out (found bearing pieces when changing the rear gear oil), so I installed a Detroit Truetrac - the truck already had 4.56's in it. It has Bilstein 5100's on the back now and they are beat, so I'm trying to justify the matching King shocks for the back and probably a set of Deaver 4" springs to get rid of the lift blocks since the truck already has 5000# Airbags on the back now (I'll still be able to tow what I want with the softer springs). Probably a rear sway bar too as my 20' enclosed car hauler catches a lot of wind on the highway, especially when passing semi trucks.

Currently running S&B intake with a 3" downpipe hooked to the stock exhaust. I will soon we putting in a transfer case (most likely Merchant Auto) as the front case on this one has a hairline crack that is leaking and it appears to have also developed the pump rub issue on the rear case as well.

I have subscribed to this thread and look forward to seeing your plans set in motion! NICE TRUCK!
 

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I just went through the same thing with an '06 GMC 2500HD I purchased earlier this year. It had 150k on it, decent paint, a really clean interior and ran well. Had a 6" lift, new 35" Toyo R/T's, dual King shocks, CST upper arms, but the front end was completely shot, steering was super sketchy and it needed a few other things. Here's what I did, as I always buy the best parts that I can afford, and always do my own work.

Dorman steering column bearing
new GM/AC Delco 'updated' intermediate steering shaft
2 DMax Store HD tie rods (inner/outer)
new CST upper A-arm poly bushings (CST tubular control arms)
Upper balljoints
Moog hub bearings
Cardone 'HD' CV axles
Bilstein steering stabilizer
Energy Suspension sway bar endlink bushings
flushed the power steering system & added a Derale cooler.
Keep an eye on those Moog hubs, they don't generally last long on 35"+ tires. When you wear them out look at Timken.
 

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Welcome to the forum!! Good to see another classic Duramax from the PNW where trucks don't rust, that eliminates one of the BIG issues with trying to keep older rigs on the road.... I use my truck for towing a 5th wheel so I'm not a big fan of lifts, but lots of people tow with lifted trucks without issues. I'm getting ready to upgrade my suspension components so hopefully will get some good ideas from this post.
 

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Awesome truck man! I have the same thing, my favorite color in these but I couldn’t read all the replies but if you’re still looking for steering parts, Kryptonite are awesome and the warranty is the best for keepers like ours


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