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2013 Chevy duramax, tuned, deleted.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have a 2013 duramax and it recently died on me while driving and wouldn’t start back up. I replaced the batteries and alternator since both tested bad, and I figured my starter was bad since there was a click but no crank. Well I went to remote start my truck and the wire from the solenoid to the starter got glowing red hot and melted the casing around it. I threw a new starter in it and it still wouldn’t start and I got curious and went to remote start and the same thing happened to this one. Do you guys have any ideas before I take it into a shop?
 

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Does the engine spin over with a socket on the crank?
 

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2013 Chevy duramax, tuned, deleted.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the engine spin over with a socket on the crank?
I haven’t tried that since I was just hearing the click and wanted to try the starter, do you think it might be siezed or possibly hydrolocked?
 

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Same result with a key start? Did you test the wire going to the starter solenoid to see if it was shorted? That's where I would start. Check battery cable negative ground on the passenger side of the block near the front of engine and make sure it is clean and tight. And have you checked the 175 mega amp fuses to make sure they are not blown?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Same result with a key start? Did you test the wire going to the starter solenoid to see if it was shorted? That's where I would start. Check battery cable negative ground on the passenger side of the block near the front of engine and make sure it is clean and tight. And have you checked the 175 mega amp fuses to make sure they are not blown?
So I just tried with the key and it makes a whine noise and the wire will get hot and smoke on the starter again then I’ll let off and it’ll make a clunk sound, I didn’t get a chance to look at the grounds since I have to leave here in a couple minutes
 

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Detach the wire at the starter solenoid, make sure the connector is not touching anything, then retest to see if shorted or not. Note that the circuit is protected by a fuse. I would start at the fuse, itself, then the fusebox, then disconnect the wire and test.
 

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Deleted, H&S mini maxx, fass T165 sump, lifted. Rebuilt at 138k
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When you turn the key to crank, are you hearing the clunk and holding it, or just hearing the clunk and letting off?

Sure sounds like your getting plenty of power to the starter, and its trying to spin the engine over. You should definitely very the engine is "free" and not seized. Shutting down while driving, doesn't sound good to start. Have you checked your engine oil level?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When you turn the key to crank, are you hearing the clunk and holding it, or just hearing the clunk and letting off?

Sure sounds like your getting plenty of power to the starter, and its trying to spin the engine over. You should definitely very the engine is "free" and not seized. Shutting down while driving, doesn't sound good to start. Have you checked your engine oil level?
im not holding the key in when it would make the sound I would let off, the oil was good its about 1/2 to 3/4 up on the dipstick. I'm currently waiting for it to quit snowing and the wind to calm down to try and see if it will crank over by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When you turn the key to crank, are you hearing the clunk and holding it, or just hearing the clunk and letting off?

Sure sounds like your getting plenty of power to the starter, and its trying to spin the engine over. You should definitely very the engine is "free" and not seized. Shutting down while driving, doesn't sound good to start. Have you checked your engine oil level?
I threw a socket on the crank bolt and I tried to turn it both ways with no prevail, does it take a lot of force to crank these engines over by hand?
 

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A two foot ratchet should be pretty easy. About 80 ft lbs. If not don't force it. You could bend a rod.
 

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When you turn the key to crank, are you hearing the clunk and holding it, or just hearing the clunk and letting off?

Sure sounds like your getting plenty of power to the starter, and its trying to spin the engine over. You should definitely very the engine is "free" and not seized. Shutting down while driving, doesn't sound good to start. Have you checked your engine oil level?
im not holding the key in when it would make the sound I would let off, the oil was good its about 1/2 to 3/4 up on the dipstick. I'm currently waiting for it to quit snowing and the wind to calm down to try and see if it will crank over by hand.

When you 'bump' the key, it sends a signal to the computer, which then activates the start procedure.
If it doesn't see rotation, it's gonna hold the solenoid for whatever period it's been programmed for -- likely why stuff is getting hot.

I never held the key til my LML started.


I wouldn't try it again until you're sure the engine is free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A two foot ratchet should be pretty easy. About 80 ft lbs. If not don't force it. You could bend a rod.
I didn’t want to mess anything up If it won’t turn do you think it might be seized up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When you 'bump' the key, it sends a signal to the computer, which then activates the start procedure.
If it doesn't see rotation, it's gonna hold the solenoid for whatever period it's been programmed for -- likely why stuff is getting hot.

I never held the key til my LML started.


I wouldn't try it again until you're sure the engine is free.
That’s kinda what I was thinking too I thought maybe that the starter can’t turn on the flywheel and that’s why it could be getting hot
 

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Hey there, I have a 2013 Chevy duramax and I was driving on the highway and all of a sudden it sounded like there was something loose in the engine bay and before I could get pulled off to the side it started to shake, sound like it was misfiring, and rev up and down on its own while not letting me accelerate at all. Before I could get off to the side the truck shut off and now it won’t crank and it sounds like the starter is clicking it just won’t crank. It let me check the codes today and I had P0513 and P2510. Any help would be appreciated!
Also I am now getting water in fuel message in my DIC
This is from your other thread & I asked if you checked the FPR for metal. And you mentioned you heard noise coming from the engine before it died, now you can't turn the motor over. Have you looked at the front of motor on top? I have seen a CP4 shaft snap & pile up causing all kinds of crap to break. Somethings going on with the noise you heard & not being able to rotate.
 

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I didnt realize there was another thread. I bet you dollars to donuts there's a correlation between that noise, and the fact your engine won't turn over. Something internal is seized.

Have you drained your oil, and cut your filter open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This is from your other thread & I asked if you checked the FPR for metal. And you mentioned you heard noise coming from the engine before it died, now you can't turn the motor over. Have you looked at the front of motor on top? I have seen a CP4 shaft snap & pile up causing all kinds of crap to break. Somethings going on with the noise you heard & not being able to rotate.
Sorry, I tried looking for that other thread and I couldn’t find it, I figured it got deleted somehow, I did look around in there and there’s no visible signs from the exterior of the engine. I replaced my fuel filter and the water in fuel message went away also
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I didnt realize there was another thread. I bet you dollars to donuts there's a correlation between that noise, and the fact your engine won't turn over. Something internal is seized.

Have you drained your oil, and cut your filter open?
No I have not done that yet, honestly I haven’t even thought to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is from your other thread & I asked if you checked the FPR for metal. And you mentioned you heard noise coming from the engine before it died, now you can't turn the motor over. Have you looked at the front of motor on top? I have seen a CP4 shaft snap & pile up causing all kinds of crap to break. Somethings going on with the noise you heard & not being able to rotate.
do you by chance know if the cp4 failure would cause it to rev up and down on its own while going down the road before dying, it could've been it was only getting limited amounts of fuel and then it would get none and so forth. also could the cp4 failure cause it to lock up or possibly hydrolock? I took the passenger glow plugs out but the front one would only unscrew and not come out all the way, so I think there is an abundance of carbon or something on it. ill pull the FPR once it warms up some, its -10 here and I've been doing this all out in the yard unfortunately. If you have any other ideas I'm open to them, id like to not have to take it somewhere but its looking like I may have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I didnt realize there was another thread. I bet you dollars to donuts there's a correlation between that noise, and the fact your engine won't turn over. Something internal is seized.

Have you drained your oil, and cut your filter open?
if theres metal shavings in my oil could that be a possible result of a cp4 failure and I just didn't get the lubrication needed, I haven't drained it yet I'm waiting for it to warm up since its -10 here in Iowa, I was just curious for when I do
 

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The metal shavings from a grenaded CP4 injection pump will be easily recognized by removing the fpr off the pump. These will contaminate the whole fuel system only, and will not be seen in the engine oil. Myself, I'd start here first based on what I've read in the thread.
 
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