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stock 4:10 rear end

31K views 51 replies 23 participants last post by  04ZO6 
#1 ·
I want to change my gears and have a line on a low miles 410 rear end assemble what im wondering is if the factory 410 will hold up to the extra horse and torque
 
#2 ·
4.10s are a factory option in Duramaxes as far as I know. Why wouldn't it take the power?
 
#3 · (Edited)
If all you are asking is if a set of 4.10 crown and pinion gears needs to be stronger then a set of 3.73's the answer is no. The shorter gear set(4.10) will actually not work as hard as the taller set(3.73) to transmit the same power from the engine to the wheels. How much power you got? GM 14 bolt rearends found in 3/4ton trucks are pretty tough.
 
#4 ·
FYI, the AAM gear sets are the best gears you can get for these trucks.

4.10s wont really be any stronger than 3.73s persay. But the lower ratio can be easier on the rest of the truck. I dont think anyone is really switching gear ratios in street trucks unless its to accomodate for tire size.

I have 4.10s in my 01, i haven't really street driven it much since i put the gears in, but ill be driving the truck and plowing with it soon, soi guess we shall see how the gears are on the street.
 
#5 ·
I thought 3.73 gears were the only option from the factory for Duramaxs.

I know that the 4:10 gears in my 2003, gas 8.1 allowed my towing capacity to increase by 2000#.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the info I thought it should be plenty good. My plans are to put on bigger tires and i could just change the gears but i found a low miles hole rearend with a locker for around 500 and i can get the front for 300.
 
#7 ·
The 4.10 rear isn't out of a 6.0 truck is it?
 
#8 ·
is there a problem with that ?
 
#9 · (Edited)
The factory axle gear for a Duramax is 3.73. They list a 4.10 gear as stock for the 3/4, but when you opt for the Duramax, it automatically changes to the 3.73.

Some cab and Chassis could be ordered with the 4.10, but not the regular trucks. I believe that with the new LML you can order the 4.10 gear for a truck.

The rear axle gear on a Duramax is 11.5 inches and 14 bolt cover, it is a strong axle. The gas axle might be smaller gears, and I doubt they would handle the torque of a diesel.
 
#11 ·
The factory axle gear for a Duramax is 3.73. They list a 4.10 gear as stock for the 3/4, but when you opt for the Duramax, it automatically changes to the 3.73.

Some cab and Chassis could be ordered with the 4.10, but not the regular trucks. I believe that with the new LML you can order the 4.10 gear for a truck.

The rear axle gear on a Duramax is 11.5 inches and 14 bolt cover, it is a strong axle. The gas axle might be smaller gears, and I doubt they would handle the torque of a diesel.
While most would consider going to a 10.5 a step backwards, they are VERY tough rear ends, and stock for stock considered stronger than the "legendary" Dana 80.

is there a problem with that ?
Yes and no. If its out of a 6.0 2500hd, its a 10.5 14 bolt. I would think it would hold up just fine to a mildly tuned truck with big rubber as long as your not constantly towing heavy.
 
#12 ·
That's true. And the 8.1L does come with 4.10s and the 11.5" 14 bolt.

Randy's Ring and Pinion has gear sets fairly affordable if you're looking to re-gear, and probably a few vendors on here would have something, too.
 
#14 · (Edited)
The interesting thing is that back when I was ordering my 2003 with the 8.1 with the 4:10 gears it was rated to pull the same as the LB7 Duramax.

IMO the 8.1 is the best Big Block. I could out run and tow the Ford and Dodge V10s all day. I wish they still offered had the 8.1 with Allison 6-speed....damn gas prices.

There is talk of a new BB for the HD trucks for 2014. But still, now that I have a Duramax I will never go back to gas.
 
#15 ·
Thank you everyone for the info i dont have a hole lot of experiance with the gears and axles and if i regear i want to do it right so thank you its very appricated sorry for the spelling.
 
#16 · (Edited)
my 2012 2500 Denali Dmax came with the .410 from the factory..
 
#18 ·
Sorry but that is hard to believe. I would double check your build sheet or the window sticker again. If it is true and you have 4:10s, than you have a one of a kind D-max. :gearjamin
 
#19 ·
Technically the 4.10 is slightly weaker than the 3.73's the pinion head is slightly smaller and the contact area of the teeth is less, Now realistically this is pretty insignificant considering some of the gear sets available for these units and really means nothing in terms of actual strength. If you are going to the 10.5 then your still not really giving anything up and it is a more easily serviced axle if you do ever blow up a gear set, with the removable pinion they are a lot easier to change and you spend a lot less time under the truck.
 
#20 ·
Technically the 4.10 is slightly weaker than the 3.73's the pinion head is slightly smaller and the contact area of the teeth is less,
I think you have this wrong, more teeth on the ring gear means more teeth in contact (full or partial)with the pinion at any given time. The ring gear is the weaker of the two. The mechanical advantage of the shorter gear set also means the crown and pinion will not work as hard. It will be stronger or able to handle more power then a 3.73. However there will be more stress(torque) on the axels and the differential gears(locker/posi/what ever) with the shorter(4.10) set.

I agree with you that it is all really insignificant and he would be fine with either ratio.
 
#23 ·
14t 10.5 15k-lb avg rating, 14 bolt 11.5 18k-lb avg rating. insignificant difference in strength between the ratios, but the differentials themselves are substantially different. if you're getting the entire housing just to make the gear change to 4.10, you are stepping down in strength going w/ the 14t 10.5" diff. I would weigh the cost of the new 11.5-411 r&p and installation vs. the value of the already assembled smaller diff, against your plans of use for the truck and your power adders/weight, towing etc. sometimes a "good deal" isn't.
 
#29 ·
Im also wanting to switch to 4.10 gears. Im running 35s, is it actually worth it? I know the truck wont have to work as hard but i havent heard of very many people switching to compensate for the bigger tires
 
#30 ·
Larger tires and lower gear ratio will be better for mpgs if you do alot of highway(non stop and go) driving like myself. It will lower the rpm for a given speed. If my 4.8l gasser had no problem and better mpg with 33" tires, then I dont see a Duramax caring much about 35"
 
#32 ·
Larger tires and lower gear ratio will be better for mpgs if you do alot of highway(non stop and go) driving like myself. It will lower the rpm for a given speed. If my 4.8l gasser had no problem and better mpg with 33" tires, then I dont see a Duramax caring much about 35"
That will be GREATLY dependent on the tire width and tread design. In my experience, anything much bigger than a 285/75/16 or comparable and your mileage starts to suffer.
 
#31 ·
Honestly I wouldnt even think about re-gearing unless you are running 37's or taller.

For guys running tires smaller than 37", there is really no need to even mess with it.
 
#33 ·
Okay thanks!
 
#34 ·
So as we all are betting this dead horse....See below from the GM Customer Service Rep.


Dear DenaliDuallyHD,

Thank you for contacting me in regards to ordering the 4.10 gear ratio.

According to the information I have available to me the 4.10 ratio for the rear axle is available in all trim levels of the 2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD as long as the L96, Vortec 6.0L V8 SFI engine or the LC8, 6.0L V8 SFI Gaseous CNG engine are in the vehicle.

If you want other model year truck please, let me know and I’ll be happy to look into them.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service

.
.
 
#35 ·
The gassers use the 10.5" rear end, completely different axle, the only thing it has in common is 14 bolts that hold the diff cover on.
 
#36 ·
3.73 to 4.10 may not be much but for my application with bigger tires and hauling and towing a lot i feel it would be better for the longevity of the truck
 
#38 ·
Going from 3.73s to 4.10s your going to feel very little seat of the pants difference. I dont think you ever did disclose what size tires you were planning on running and how much your planning on towing.

Some guys say dont bother regearing until 37s and got with 4.56s...... Well, if your going to be towing heavy on 35s i tend to believe 4.10s are going to make your truck live longer.
 
#37 ·
I have the 4.10's for the front end of ur truck (if its a 4wd) f/s right now if you're interested pm me
 
#42 ·
I was surprised no one else has mentioned the front end... If you swap to 4.10s out back won't you also have to switch out the front??
 
#39 ·
I'm leaning toward 33 and I tow 8000 to 16000 pretty frequently 9 months out of the year
 
#40 ·
Ive been driving my 01 with 4.10s for about a week now on 305/50/20s, About 32" tall. Seat of the pants feel with a max effort tune is minimal, other than loss of traction seems to occur noticeably sooner/easier. I haven't noticed any ill effects on my fuel mileage, but ive got about a 10 mile commute which about 5 miles of is a 1200' elevation change with a handful of twists and turns. So in my case, im actually in overdrive converter locked for much more of the trip up hil than i was with stock gears.

If you haul the much weight that frequently and run 33s, i would suspect 4.10s would be worthwhile. Although if you spent the $1200-$2000 it would cost to have your truck re-geared at a shop you may not feel it was worthwhile.
 
#43 ·
you will absolutely have to have the front re-done. If you dont, the first time you put it in 4x4 your going to hear some very nasty noises, especially if your moving at the time. Your front end will try to outrun the back end which usually blows the front driveshaft and/or transfer case. Its not pretty at all.
 
#48 ·
So just out of curiosity does going with 4:10s make your fuel mileage go down if your switching from 3:73? Therefore its impossible to make the money back in fuel mileage gain?... serious ? idk the answer.
 
#49 ·
If your hauling around 16k on a regular basis that could go either way.

I believe i have seen a gain in MPG with my commute with 4.10s and 305/50/20s. But, i do a few miles of city driving, about a mile down the highway, and i live up on a hill thats about 1200' up in about 5 miles time. Im noticing alot more time in overdrive with the converter locked headed up the hill.

Im only about a tank and a half of street use into these 4.10s and haven't street driven the truck regularly since almost may, i regeared the truck in july.
 
#50 ·
going to 4.10's with 35's should bring the mileage back up some, you'll never get it all back due to the added rolling resistance but it will offset it and let your truck run in its happy rpm range when going down the road. You will also gain some of your acceleration back and the truck will feel livelier. For 35's and up it might be worth it to regear, for smaller tires it really doesnt pay.
 
#51 ·
Picked up a ton of wood pellets on the way home from work today. This minimal change is definitely noticeable than i figured it would be.

Its working out better on the street than i thought it would. Granted i bet it will suck empty on the interstate, but i have the other truck and typically took my 06 on long trips before that.
 
#52 ·
I run 35s on 20s and with 373s in my lml, def want to make the switch, i also have a o7 lbz mason dump with the 410s. The difference towing my landscape trailer daily is unbearable. The lml is a absolute dog compared to the lbz with the 410s. Shift points just feel off when towing with the lml.
 
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