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I'll bring this back up to the top

I know its not stock height but Iwill be 2 inches over stock at ride when I'm finished the pictures are at 4 inches with about 7 inches up travel but I'm working on suspension



 

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what is the point of doing this? a built IFS is going to take whatever you throw at it, and where wont be dodge or ford parts bolted to your truck. it seems like a compromise of ride quality with no benefit and a huge cost. please educate me on the points im wrong on, but i dont understand it. i do understand the IFS nature causes some change or steering geometry while it articulates, where as the solid axle does not, but that seems like such a trivial difference that it doesent seem to justify the cost of the swap. if its for nothing more then "hey look what i did" i can totally get that. i guess you could talk about cv angles, but if your cranking the keys up and messing up the angles that isnt a fault of the IFS system, its the user. all in all, it looks cool, i just dont understand why someone would want to invest in that over say, turbo, tune, injectors, another turbo, ect, i mean even a new coat of paint (cuz i need one) would seem like a better investment.

if someone could maybe point out the reasons they like running ford / dodge parts on their truck that might help.
 

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To build a ifs strong as a 60 swap is big money in my opinion I mean my father and i have had three different trucks and between them 2 front center sections and about 3 shafts 1 ring and pinon ball joints and tie rod ends add up.
I mean buy all means its could be built bullet proof but at what cost

There are a lot of factors but this is the route I choose to take and I'm only at $700 so far into my swap and I look to only have about $300-$400 more into it
 

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To build a ifs strong as a 60 swap is big money in my opinion I mean my father and i have had three different trucks and between them 2 front center sections and about 3 shafts 1 ring and pinon ball joints and tie rod ends add up.
I mean buy all means its could be built bullet proof but at what cost

There are a lot of factors but this is the route I choose to take and I'm only at $700 so far into my swap and I look to only have about $300-$400 more into it
I'm sorry but you are basically wrong.

Your stock Dana 60 is no as strong as an AAM 9.25. And its not going to save you money on wear items like ball joints as you suggest.
 

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I understand were items( ball joints and tre's) but when the aluminum housing breaks in to to separate pieces ??
One had a locker and 33's one was stock and one on 35's
Yes I believe there are 1000+ HP daily driven trucks out there
But again personal preference and I guess your preference is ifs and mines more solid
I didn't look to see what it would take to make a ifs last ($$) I just wanted something different on the cheap
But OK you win
 

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I understand were items( ball joints and tre's) but when the aluminum housing breaks in to to separate pieces ??
One had a locker and 33's one was stock and one on 35's
Yes I believe there are 1000+ HP daily driven trucks out there
But again personal preference and I guess your preference is ifs and mines more solid
I didn't look to see what it would take to make a ifs last ($$) I just wanted something different on the cheap
But OK you win
Splitting the housing is typically lack of preventive maintenance issue.

I've also seen a super duty blow the gear end of the pinion up through the housing.

I'm just saying the overall advantages are slim. But if a SFA Chevy is what you gotta have then that's fine.
 

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This ever get finished?
 

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Splitting the housing is typically lack of preventive maintenance issue.
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My truck split a case with right about 13k miles on it right after I got it. I don't think any maintenance was missed. Had stock everything including tire size.

I think one of the best reason to go D60 is the gear and locker selection available. Especially with the LML front diff.
 

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Finished both of my personal projects and 2 other SAS duramax's one was 4 inch lift the other 8-ish

What I found at stock height there is only about 1-1.25 inch between axle and oil pan(so yes can be done at stock height) but not enough if you hang a plow or want to do some light wheeling at that height. So truck on left had 3 inch body lift and 3 inch lift with front axle 1.5 inches forward rear has 2.5 inch block for reference and truck on the right has 3 inch lift and 3 inches forward with 37's with from the angle I know you can't tell how far they are forward. And the other picture is with more recent with 37's and 20x12 wheels just to give you a size but it's far from done it will have body lift taken off in the spring and a np273 I've been putting together and arp studs for starters.
 

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Had question about ride and any picture of front axle this is the only picture i coupd find of front suspension and right now its covered in snow or i would grab some new ones. Rides just like a stock Ford super duty because I used coils from a stock 2007 Ford super duty f-350 6.0 and used adjustable rs9000 shocks which are great and yes abs works. I think next truck I do I want to try coil-overs and 4 link.
 

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I've had a few solid axled Dmax's before (one truck coil spring and one truck leaf spring) and didn't care for the ride quality. But they were also on 37" and 40" tall tires. Like you stated, 4-link would be way better, but also probably more expensive. What did you do with the steering on this one?
 

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I'm running stock style 2007 Ford f-350 everything from pitman arm on down to knuckles and pitman arm came from wfo took a few tries but works great now only reason why we went this way was if we are 500-1000 miles from home and something gets bent or broken we can just run to any parts house and get what we need to get home. And it's got about 20k miles on this setup so far and everything is nice and tight and on 37s so can't complain
 
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