Post pics of your CV angles... I bet they won't be liking you much

 

adjusting the torsion bars does not make your truck ride rough. The torsion bar is basically a spring when turning them up you are just moving them further down not changing the spring rate. Now the side effect of moving them down does make it ride different but mainly due to the shocks being too short so longer shocks would be a good investment or extensions.

 

Maybe I'm wrong but doesn't it limit the travel of your upper control arms, which makes for a rough ride?

 

When I bought my truck the bars were cranked and I didn't know any better really. But the angles you get are not good, even though my ride wasn't bad. Now I have the bolts backed out all the way and angles are good.

 

I would be interested in the cv angles, too. I am going to go up an inch and would like to know what I will be looking at.

 

CV angle isn't bad imo... Not for my application anyways, Im not a hot rodder *generally* or a wheeler... Just a worker and a tower... mostly a daily driver... Yall can slam or hate on it, but Im cool with it and I pay the note! lol

 

Those don't look bad at all man. Like the color of ur truck too!


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^^ sorry it's sideways, but you get the idea

 

I have been looking at mine and wondering if they are cranked up. Should i be worried also what would the leveling kits do to the cv angles?

 

Mine are maxed and I still don't have the height I want. CV's aren't bad.

 

Truck looks good leved. I dont think your angles dont look bad at all. I want to crank mine up close to level, about 1.5-2 inch in the front; this would leave the rear about an inch higher.

Did only the 1/2 tons get the coilovers in 2007 then? When did the 2500HD switch to coilovers or are they still t-bars?

 

They are still t bar.

 

The HD's are still torsion-bar IFS.

 

I have torsion keys and the tbars cranked a little bit plus shock extensions. The truck sits exactly how i want it and need it to to clear the tires. The ride is terrible though and you can forget about launching or getting on it in 4x4 or ill be hitting my head on the roof from bouncing. Is there another option to get that small of a lift and flatten out the cvs?

 

4" lift with no blocks in the rear and t bars turned down in the front will give you flat cv angles and about the same clearance without sacrificing ride quality


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Adding tuff country torsion keys to my 04 made it ride WAY better and handle better, the factory set up was way too soft and bouncy. Same thing with my 06, way soft in the front and handles like a pig so I'm definitely going to get keys and extensions again.

 

It won't flatten your CVs out but some Cognito UCAs will help alot with the ride

 

I don't notice ride quality issues. I will be adding the shock extentions but leaning toward a lift just to raise the front a little more.

 

For you guys talking about the rough ride, Im telling you the diff on *my* application is night and day BETTER. I dont know if it's because the big bumper had me squatting funny and I had just gotten used to it or what. But it went from a cabover straight axle mack to an air riding 359 Pete with that little adjustment. I cant find the thread right off, but when I was researching doing this on here a guy posted a pretty in depth thread on the misconceptions of adjusting torsion bars. If you are looking for just a little bit of lift in the front end to clear a little bigger tire or to make it stand better, I'd say go for it.

 

man, im a jack a$$ it's a sticky in this section!

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/s...sion-steering/28311-so-you-just-got-your-truck-you-want-crank-front-end-up.html

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis450r
adjusting the torsion bars does not make your truck ride rough. The torsion bar is basically a spring when turning them up you are just moving them further down not changing the spring rate. Now the side effect of moving them down does make it ride different but mainly due to the shocks being too short so longer shocks would be a good investment or extensions.

Thats not even close to being right....

yes it acts like a spring, but changing the "torsion" of the bar, by adjusting the keys, creates more twist on the bar, which in then creates more spring rate....Creating more rebound.....creating a rougher ride.

The front shocks have no rebound to them like the rear. You can take the front shocks off and the stance of the truck will not change.

Simple physics.

Over-rotating the torsion bars can also cause the suspension to hit the bump-stop prematurely, causing a harsh ride. Aftermarket forged-metal torsion key kits use relocked adjuster keys to prevent over-rotation, and shock brackets to keep the piston travel in the stock range.
Next time you think you know what ur talking about do some research ur not changing the load on the torsion bar by adjusting it. The truck still weighs the same so it is not twisting it more it moves it closer to the ground and raises the front makes the upper control arm hit the bump stop prematurely and causes it to ride rough. Aftermarket upper control arms can help with the travel and shock extensions or longer shocks thats all.

 

Over-rotating the torsion bars can also cause the suspension to hit the bump-stop prematurely, causing a harsh ride. Aftermarket forged-metal torsion key kits use relocked adjuster keys to prevent over-rotation, and shock brackets to keep the piston travel in the stock range.

Next time you think you know what ur talking about do some research ur not changing the load on the torsion bar by adjusting it. The truck still weighs the same so it is not twisting it more it moves it closer to the ground and raises the front makes the upper control arm hit the bump stop prematurely and causes it to ride rough. Aftermarket upper control arms can help with the travel and shock extensions or longer shocks thats all.

You are correct in some of your observations. Yes putting more pressure on the torsion bars makes hitting the bumpstops easier.

But I guess you know that, because "wikipedia" told you so

But you are still putting more of a load on the torsion bars creating MORE OF A TWISTING FORCE on them.....it doesn't move them closer to the ground. It forces more of a preload on the torsion bars, thus making them want to twist and pushed the outside edge of the control arm downwards in hopes of achieving zero torsion.

So once again.....you are wrong, partially.

So Jmaz268 u need to do some looking before you go telling somone they are wrong. Just cuz you are a moderator doesn't mean you know more than someone else.

Looking as in, searching wikipedia....I'll think I'll be ok, there isn't much I haven't done to these trucks personally and have a majority of the knowledge I need to survive and answer questions....properly.

Me being a moderator has nothing to do with me saying you were incorrect. Its the point of the matter that people take what they read on the internet as the "truffs" and then they say it and someone else reads it and then they say it. So on and so on. Viscous cycle.

If you think I was being "hard" on you and calling you out.....sorry....I could get some other people in here that will make fun of you to no end. Might want to not take things to heart on the internet....or you are going to have a rough life.

 

So Jmaz268 u need to do some looking before you go telling somone they are wrong. Just cuz you are a moderator doesn't mean you know more than someone else.

 

Can't believe people are still yelling at the mods around here......:cookoo[1]:

 

How about we chalk this up to:

If you don't mind buying new wheel bearings/ball joints/etc.. prematurely....and you have zero intentions of drag racing, pulling, etc.. then go ahead and crank your bars or get yourself a leveling kit.

I've had cranked bars, leveling kit, lifted fully, lifted with smaller blocks, aftermarket front bumper and stock, etc.. I've pretty much done it all. When it comes down to it, a lifted application that drops the front diff will give you best ride results and wear results opposed to cranking the bars.

And to the OP... yes your bumper WILL make a difference in ride quality. Those things are heavy enough to hold the front down and make it ride smoother.. my truck rode like a brick wagon.. then I got my Ironbull bumper and it rode like a caddy. After I removed the Ironbull with a lift this time, it wasn't as bad, but still not better. And the guy who picked up my bumper from me said the same thing.. couldn't believe how much better it made his truck ride.

 

Nick, your the suspension genious. what do you say?

 

Yeah Nick, tell us, PLEEEEASE!!!!:rofl

 

Yeah Nick tell us

 

So, who wants the answer....:gearjamin

 

Be gentle Nick....its my first time.:rofl

 

Break it down for us Nick teh suspension guru

 

I wanna know the answer!

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