[bsyoung12]

2011 GMC 2500 diesel truck with 220,000 miles
Heading down the road, smooth or not, pulling a trailer or not and truck will shut down for 1-2 seconds and then resume normal operation. What i mean by shut down, the motor seems to keep running but no power at peddle. Dash lights up with service traction control, gas gauge needle reads empty (even though full of diesel) and service light comes on. Happened on my last 600 mile trip 18 times and only 8 on the way back. Then a few days of driving will pass and it won't happen at all - Totally random. Truck has been to the dealer 3 times now and they don't know what the problem is. All they want to do is change out parts and i'm not good with that because they wont guarantee it will fix problem. Service tech at the dealer drives truck around with computer plugged in to see if he can isolate the problem while its happening and still cant figure it out. Yesterday afternoon I backed up the the trailer, hooked up, and went to start the truck and nothing. No power at the key, not even a light on the dash would come on. Walked back in the house and eat lunch. 20 min later the truck started up no problem and drive for 300 miles with no issues pulling a trailer. I've checked the batteries, load test good, cables appear to be good, alternator id charging at 14.6 volts while motor is running, fuse panel is connected and no sign of mice or rates have ever been seen under the driver side fuse box. Problem seems to be getting worse. Dealer claims they have never experienced this before until today when the service department called me to say another truck will be coming in next week with what sounds to be similar issues. I can't be the only one experiencing this issue.
PLEASE HELP!

Thank you in advance

 

[GoBlowSnow]

2011 GMC 2500 diesel truck with 220,000 miles
they wont guarantee it will fix problem.

They are smart. When it comes to electrical gremlins, there are no guarantees. In fact, there are no guarantees in life, there is just life. That being said... it sounds like a loose connection somewhere. However- given that there are probably 1000+ connections on a vehicle.. good luck I'd be worried too if it were my truck. maybe get rid of it.

 

[Ron Nielson]

I'd be looking for green crusties (corrosion) and mice-chewn wires in or near the fuse box. Also carefully check the connector from the battery cable to the fuse box. And of course, the connectors from the various wiring harnesses to the fuse box.



There was a person who worked many months solving a similar problem with his truck. His wife is a horse racer, in endurance racing, and she would take the truck, horse trailer, and horse to various races all around the west. They were from Yucaipa (or somewhere near there) in southern California. Needless to say, he didn't want his wife to get stranded somewhere with the horse. Not only would there be a truck problem, but likely a horse problem. You might look further for his series of posts.

 

[Dirtymax66!]

check your battery connections and see if they are loose or corroded. electronics are sensive now endays

 

[killerants]

Did you figure out the problem? I'm having pretty much the same issue

 

[Nitro Junkie]

I have a gasser that did that. It turned out to be a bad battery cable where the cable goes into the battery clamp. I heated the battery clamp with a torch, dropped some flux into it and then filed it with solder. Hasn't done it since. With the truck running, start jiggling wires and see if it starts missing or dies.

 

[Chevy892]

update

2011 GMC 2500 diesel truck with 220,000 miles
Heading down the road, smooth or not, pulling a trailer or not and truck will shut down for 1-2 seconds and then resume normal operation. What i mean by shut down, the motor seems to keep running but no power at peddle. Dash lights up with service traction control, gas gauge needle reads empty (even though full of diesel) and service light comes on. Happened on my last 600 mile trip 18 times and only 8 on the way back. Then a few days of driving will pass and it won't happen at all - Totally random. Truck has been to the dealer 3 times now and they don't know what the problem is. All they want to do is change out parts and i'm not good with that because they wont guarantee it will fix problem. Service tech at the dealer drives truck around with computer plugged in to see if he can isolate the problem while its happening and still cant figure it out. Yesterday afternoon I backed up the the trailer, hooked up, and went to start the truck and nothing. No power at the key, not even a light on the dash would come on. Walked back in the house and eat lunch. 20 min later the truck started up no problem and drive for 300 miles with no issues pulling a trailer. I've checked the batteries, load test good, cables appear to be good, alternator id charging at 14.6 volts while motor is running, fuse panel is connected and no sign of mice or rates have ever been seen under the driver side fuse box. Problem seems to be getting worse. Dealer claims they have never experienced this before until today when the service department called me to say another truck will be coming in next week with what sounds to be similar issues. I can't be the only one experiencing this issue.
PLEASE HELP!

Thank you in advance

2012 doing the same thing. Any update?

 

[bman036]

Check the wiring harness for chafing on the a/c compressor line. Seems to be a notorious problem for the lml trucks. I've had 3 separate wire chafing issues on mine... including this. piss poor routing from the factory I'd say.

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/11-16-lml-duramax-powertrain/818562-check-your-wiring-guys.html

 

[Ron Nielson]

A dealership tech can't fix a problem he can't identify, so your job is to identify where the problem is and conditions under which it occurs. At $125 per hour or more, it gets pretty expensive, quickly, to have the tech look further.


I would suggest you subscribe to ALLDATDIY.COM (or similar online publication). I believe it costs about $25 for a 1 year subscription and about 2X that for 5 years. Either choice will likely save you many times the cost of the subscription. When you subscribe, you get information about YOUR TRUCK, not other similar trucks, other years, 4X4 vs 4X2, etc. So the coverage is not as broad as other hard bound reference books, Chiltons, etc.

ALLDATDIY.COM has all the DTC's for your trucks and all the TSB's which can be very helpful to see if there are similar situations which have been addressed by Chevrolet. Example in my 2008 version, there are 10 TSB's for Electrical problems.

Here is the outline for one of them:


Electrical - Multiple Warning Lamps/Shifting/Driveability Issue Information

Electrical - Multiple Warning Lamps/Shifting/Driveability Issue

Information For the Procedures to Diagnose and Repair the Above Conditions

Chafed Wiring Harness at Transmission Case Retaining Clip

Multiple Wires Cut and/or Corroded

Inspection of Fuse Block - I/P (Left Side) For Loose Connector X1

Chafed IP Wiring Harness Near Park Brake Pedal Assembly

Chafed IP Wiring Harness at Left Side Junction Block Mounting Bracket

Chafed Wiring Harness at Adjustable Pedals Motor

Chafed Wiring Harness at Transmission

Chafed ECM Wiring Harness From Bracket Contact Near Engine Intake Manifold

Chafed Wiring Harness at Rear of Engine Intake Manifold

Chafed Wiring Harness at Chassis Body Mounts Left Side Frame Rail

GMLAN Terminator Resistor 2007 Vehicles

Data Link Resistor 1 2009 Vehicles

Rear Chassis Mounted Data Link Resistor 1 Chafed Wiring Harness

Inspection of Engine Harness Connector X109

Inspection of Engine Harness Connector X115

Hybrid Models (HP2) Chafed Wiring Harness

Hybrid Models (RPO HP2) Data Link Resistor 2

Hybrid Models (HP2) Equipped With Onstar(R)

Lost Communication With Various Control Modules and DTCS Set

Inspection of Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module Connector

Repairing Fretting Corrosion


I believe you have a circuit problem somewhere, perhaps a problem on the LAN communications line, fuse box, etc and it will take lots of detective work to shake, twist, pull, squeeze, etc, those wiring bundles until you can find the one where the problem exists, and you can reproduce the problem in your garage. Once you can find a way to reproduce the problem, a tech can figure out how to do the repair if you are stumped about that part of it. The answer/solution/fix for one person is unlikely to be the same as found on other trucks although possible. It might be good to start a post where all of you with this similar problem can post what you have done and what you have found so that all can benefit by the collective effort and knowledge.

I would make sure that the batteries are fully charged; that the battery cables inside and out and both ends are absolutely clean and shiney and tightened properly. Don't just look at them, get out a metal brush or sandpaper and make sure to remove any corrosion whatsoever. Check both ends of the battery cables, and don't forget the alternator cable. Add a light coating of di-electric grease before putting back together. Check your ground cables in a similar manner. If you live in salt country, this is especially important. Maybe even run and additional ground from the firewall ground point near the brake booster to the engine or battery, just in case the ground isn't 100%. Check and clean your mega fuse connections on the passenger side firewall in a similar manner. Make sure to disconnect both batteries when starting. Gotta have the basics correct before anything else electrical can be expected to work correctly.

 

[Sandman_73]

Check the wiring harness for chafing on the a/c compressor line. Seems to be a notorious problem for the lml trucks. I've had 3 separate wire chafing issues on mine... including this. piss poor routing from the factory I'd say.

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/11-16-lml-duramax-powertrain/818562-check-your-wiring-guys.html

Reported that one almost 4 years ago. Definatey check it out. Random shutdowns are downright scary.

 

[Mcoletta]

I had the same problem. I thought it was a lift pump issue. Lol.

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