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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2021 Silverado 1500 RST with the 3.0 Duramax Diesel. The place I had it installed told me they could only get a 2" front kit and a 2.25" rear block kit. I just assumed this was ok. They installed yesterday and it looked really good!! It still pitched in the front again which I liked so it will level out when I tow. Drove it home and started to notice a vibration when I accelerated and when I slowed down especially when I was turning. I called the place today and I took it in to have it looked at. I waited about an hour and they came back and told me they took out the rear blocks because it was putting too much strain on the u-joint. I asked if they put a 2" or less on the rear would it still vibrate? They told me I couldn't put any size on the rear without customizing the drive train and u-joint. Am I wrong thinking that if you put a 2" block or less in the rear it would still work? My truck came stock with the rear end riding higher. Now my truck looks wrong with the front end riding an inch higher than the rear. Any suggestions? Not willing to down the money on a suspension lift. And yes I'm not familiar with the mechanics of any vehicle so please if I'm wrong tell me politely.
 

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I recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2021 Silverado 1500 RST with the 3.0 Duramax Diesel. The place I had it installed told me they could only get a 2" front kit and a 2.25" rear block kit. I just assumed this was ok. They installed yesterday and it looked really good!! It still pitched in the front again which I liked so it will level out when I tow. Drove it home and started to notice a vibration when I accelerated and when I slowed down especially when I was turning. I called the place today and I took it in to have it looked at. I waited about an hour and they came back and told me they took out the rear blocks because it was putting too much strain on the u-joint. I asked if they put a 2" or less on the rear would it still vibrate? They told me I couldn't put any size on the rear without customizing the drive train and u-joint. Am I wrong thinking that if you put a 2" block or less in the rear it would still work? My truck came stock with the rear end riding higher. Now my truck looks wrong with the front end riding an inch higher than the rear. Any suggestions? Not willing to down the money on a suspension lift. And yes I'm not familiar with the mechanics of any vehicle so please if I'm wrong tell me politely.
It’s likely not the rear but if you cranked 2” up front and the kit didn’t lower the diff your front cv angles are jacked
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It’s likely not the rear but if you cranked 2” up front and the kit didn’t lower the diff your front cv angles are jacked
I'm just trying to figure if it's worth going somewhere else to get a smaller block put on the rear because it looks super silly now with it higher in the front. The vibration is gone but I'm not happy with the look. This may be a dumb question but does a suspension lift no effect the drive train as much as a leveling kit? I'm ready to have them take off the front level because I'm so unhappy with the look and invest in a lift kit.
It’s likely not the rear but if you cranked 2” up front and the kit didn’t lower the diff your front cv angles are jacked
 

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I'm just trying to figure if it's worth going somewhere else to get a smaller block put on the rear because it looks super silly now with it higher in the front. The vibration is gone but I'm not happy with the look. This may be a dumb question but does a suspension lift no effect the drive train as much as a leveling kit? I'm ready to have them take off the front level because I'm so unhappy with the look and invest in a lift kit.
leave your rear blocks in...

either lower the front a bit OR get a diff spacer kit...

I don't know what the stock numbers on a 1500 2021 are but you should DEFINITELY not go more than 2" crank without dropping the diff.. more like 1.5" to be on the safe side..

how much room do you have between your upper control arm and the droop stop?
 

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We had a guy with a trail boss 1500 that put a level lift in the front...
He hit a pot hole and blew both upper and lower ball joints out..
$3K in damage..

The lift came out during the repair..

All suspension and driveline angles change when you lift...
If those angels are not corrected, you will have issues..

If you don't want to spend any more money, take the lift out..

If you have to have it lifted... Write the check..
 

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We had a guy with a trail boss 1500 that put a level lift in the front...
He hit a pot hole and blew both upper and lower ball joints out..
$3K in damage..

The lift came out during the repair..

All suspension and driveline angles change when you lift...
If those angels are not corrected, you will have issues..

If you don't want to spend any more money, take the lift out..

If you have to have it lifted... Write the check..
any idea how much crank he had on them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
leave your rear blocks in...

either lower the front a bit OR get a diff spacer kit...

I don't know what the stock numbers on a 1500 2021 are but you should DEFINITELY not go more than 2" crank without dropping the diff.. more like 1.5" to be on the safe side..

how much room do you have between your upper control arm and the droop stop?
They already pulled the rear blocks. I don't know if these pics help. The 2" leveling kit is still installed in the front. I'm no mechanic
1085723
1085724
1085725
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1500 trucks have struts..
They put spacer blocks on top or on the bottom of the strut.
So if I have this lift kit installed with the strut coil extenders and tube rear shocks does this keep my drive shaft in place and not at an angle like the spacers did?

 

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1500 trucks have struts..
They put spacer blocks on top or on the bottom of the strut.
duh... that's make sense.. hehe forgot they had front coils.. but still IFS right..

@cam.jay78 I dont see any diff drop spacers in that kit.. so if its 4wd and you are going up 3.5" and not addressing CV axle angles.. I think that would be the issue...

but as others have said.. these newer vehicles are getting more sensitive to all driveline angles..

what does the kit MFG have to say about it?

hard to tell from the angle of the pics you shot.. but the axles dont look bad and the boots certainly dont look 'pinched' ...

those rear blocks certainly dont look like 3.5" blocks.. they look 1" to 1.5" at best and are not tapered (angled so the pinion points up reducing the drive shaft angle) but those lift blocks dont look thick enough to require it..

did you have new wheels and/or tires installed at the same time...?
who did the alignment after? what were the before and after alignment specs.. and did they align to the kit MRG suggestion or to the chevy spec? sometimes they are not the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No I did not add new tires still have stock 265/65/18 tires on. They did an alignment on the truck after install, not sure what guidelines they used for the alignment. They didn't seem to know any more than I do which should have been my first clue not to go there. I will be going to a place that specializes in lifts if I do add the 3.5. I just don't want to waste any more money. I'm ready to just leave the 2" level in the front and deal or have it pulled as well. Sounds like I definitely need to ask about a diff spacer if I go that route. Thanks fellas!!
 

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looked at the kit..

looks like you have met the 'do nots' provided you didn't do strut replacement as it says its not for diesels

here are the alignment specs from the instructions... what does your alignment sheet say post install?

  1. Have a qualified alignment center align the vehicle immediately. Realign to factory specifications. The following are the
    recommended specifications:
Caster in degrees Camber in degrees Toe In in degrees
4.0 +-1.0 -.4 +-.8 0.1 +-.2
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
These are the front and rear leveling kits I had them install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It looks like the rear blocks says it may need rear shock extenders. Would this make a difference in the drive line angle if it were added?
 

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It looks like the rear blocks says it may need rear shock extenders. Would this make a difference in the drive line angle if it were added?
no .. the pinion angle is determined by the block to leaf spring platform.. its fixed

but if your shocks are too short.. and you are essentially driving around on bottomed out (fully extended to the internal stop) shocks.. I imagine that might be something that could be felt...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sounds like I should just pull the 2" level from the front and spend the $1,800 and have the dealer add the factory 2" lift to avoid all these problems and add on's plus keep my warranty intact.... too many might and maybe's to be messing with a truck that I love and want to last a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Sounds like I should just pull the 2" level from the front and spend the $1,800 and have the dealer add the factory 2" lift to avoid all these problems and add on's plus keep my warranty intact.... too many might and maybe's to be messing with a truck that I love and want to last a long time.
 
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