I like the fill location but not sure I'm going to spend 400 for a pcv relocate. There is always a fine oily mist coming out of the pcv. The standard hose may not be fancy but it works.

 

Hope to receive my kit tomorrow and install it Sunday if I have the time. Already have the turbo horn return bypassed and this will complete the system. Aside from the one way security bolts having to be extracted installation seems simple. Will post pics when done.


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Sounds like a good idea and it appears that it should be reliable.

 

I look forward to hearing more about this bypass.

Any issues or negative side affects? I’ve seen some mentioned but looked like shoddy DIY work.


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I look forward to hearing more about this bypass.

Any issues or negative side affects? I’ve seen some mentioned but looked like shoddy DIY work.


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it's not a bypass it's a replacement design. I went ahead and ordered it because I'm more interested in relocating the oil fill tube as the stock one is in a terrible spot.

 

I will. but it's going to be a while as algores global warming has us at 5-10f most days and I'm not doing truck stuff until it warms a bit.

I can say that the machine work on the parts is exceptional. it is better than I thought it was. extremely solid and very good finish. very impressed.

I've got their fuel filter setup which is very well made as well.

 

I had to slightly drill out the heads of the bolts then use the EZ out to get them to back out. A bit more difficult and involved than it seems from watching VSE’s video but I was successful in getting it done. Just took longer than expected. Only other issue is with the larger than stock Banks boost tubes the filler cap is almost too close to get fingers in between to unscrew. Another thing is the cap that comes with the kit is a screw in style cap and you can not use the original or any variations of the original style cap. I ran the breather tube out the back and down to an external filter rather than back into the turbo horn.

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thanks!! I have not tried lately because the weather has been either bitter cold or snowing or raining or a mixture of that.

how did you drill that back screw under the turbo opening??

 

I disconnected the boost tube at the turbo and shifted it out of the way with out removing the whole drivers side tube. Should be even easier with stock boost tubes. Being that the bottom half of the charge side is flexible if I remember correctly. I used a 90° cordless snap-on drill I borrowed from my mechanic friend. Accidentally drilled through the head of one of the bolts and then used long needle nose pliers to remove the remaining bolt stud after I got the stock unit out. Good idea to have a mechanics magnet handy as it’s hard to reach if anything falls back there.


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ahh thanks I got a right angle attachment for my 1/4 inch impact and some lefty drill bits that fit it

 

On most of mine I just used a hammer and chisel to break them loose. I have the Snap On extractors and it was hit or miss if then worked. But it is so nicer to have this system. Only problem I have had has been VSE non reply to me on the thread pitch of the plug in the housing so I can get the correct size fitting to run for pcv delete. I sent them 3 emails and they have just ignored and not even replied. So much for customer support. Even called them and talked to someone in the technical department and then asked me to send them a email.

 

Interested. Does anyone know how long/mileage the stock system lasts before experiencing some of the mentioned failures? Curious.

 

it's the oil fill tube that is the delicate bit in the system. my oil fill is extremely loose and freely spins I suspect it's cracked near the base somewhere.

the rest of it is not a problem except for its weaker ability to get oil out of the air flow.

 

I decided to order the kit and dump the ccv overboard. I’ll need to purchase a plug for the intake horn nipple. Anyone know the size off hand?
There is a two week lead time on the kit.

 

I decided to order the kit and dump the ccv overboard. I’ll need to purchase a plug for the intake horn nipple. Anyone know the size off hand?
There is a two week lead time on the kit.

Here’s what I used :

2 x hoses-Amazon
2 x HPS hose connectors-HPS
7 x 1”-1.75” hose clamps-Home Depot
1 x cap HPS/Amazon
1 x barb reducer 1”x7/8”-SupplyHouse.com (plumbing supply)
1 x filter (at hose end)-HPS
Zip-ties-Home Depot

Used the factory 180° return hose to direct the (2) 5’ hoses down and under all the way to the rear axle area so no fumes vent out under the cab of the truck. Smell was noticeable (only while standing outside and idling) until I extended the length w the second hose and also before the VSE kit was installed and there was still positive pressure from the turbo constantly forcing fumes out. The way I have it now it’s not noticeable at all and it’s complete.

 

If I were to add a catch can between the outlet and the intake horn, how much oil do you suppose it would collect between a 5000 mile OCI?
I don’t like the idea of smelling vapors while idling.

 

I do not know but it isn't much. my intake is pretty damn clean at 43k miles. had the intake tube off today trying to install a banks ram air and inspected the intake part of the turbo with a camera. pretty clean over all. the output side is dirty.

so what is getting there isn't much.

the key is not short tripping so the motor burns the moisture off. the ammount of water in the oil in the wife's catch can on her 6.2 gas gmc is pretty alarming to think that could be in the engine and sitting on the intake valves. I'm glad I put it on her truck

the stock ccv is way better than nothing and i would say close to aftermarket catch cans but it's dumping back into the motor not into the intake like a gas motor does. the stock ccv is pressurized by the turbo outlet and the vse eliminates that extra unnecessary pressure so the vse oil return will work better than stock. so if you route the vse output to the turbo intake horn it shouldn't matter at all.

once I manage to get it installed I'll re-inspect after 10k miles and see what it's doing.

 

I do not know but it isn't much. my intake is pretty damn clean at 43k miles. had the intake tube off today trying to install a banks ram air and inspected the intake part of the turbo with a camera. pretty clean over all. the output side is dirty.

so what is getting there isn't much.

the key is not short tripping so the motor burns the moisture off. the ammount of water in the oil in the wife's catch can on her 6.2 gas gmc is pretty alarming to think that could be in the engine and sitting on the intake valves. I'm glad I put it on her truck

the stock ccv is way better than nothing and i would say close to aftermarket catch cans but it's dumping back into the motor not into the intake like a gas motor does. the stock ccv is pressurized by the turbo outlet and the vse eliminates that extra unnecessary pressure so the vse oil return will work better than stock. so if you route the vse output to the turbo intake horn it shouldn't matter at all.

once I manage to get it installed I'll re-inspect after 10k miles and see what it's doing.

Thanks for your thoughts and input.
I was also wondering how well the VSE works at separating the oil from the vapor. just a series of holes, not quite seeing how well the oil will fall out with the CC pressure behind it.
We’ll see in about a month after I get the system.

 

there isn't much pressure with the vse. it's just venting excess pressure. the way a catch can works is there is a piece with small holes that causes the gasses to slow the oil drops out as that happens and the gasses move on down the line. the vse has a piece in there that does that.

 

VSE L5P CCV Upgrade Install

I haven’t found much in the way of installs for the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) upgrade and VSE’s instructions are a little sparse. The quality of the parts is top notch. The circled item is the part you will be removing and the oil fill is attached to it. After removing the boost tube, the...

www.duramaxforum.com

great how to here including best way to remove the one way bolts. don't buy the vse extractor it doesn't work.

I installed my kit today super easy with the irwin 1/2" external extractor

 

VSE L5P CCV Upgrade Install

I haven’t found much in the way of installs for the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) upgrade and VSE’s instructions are a little sparse. The quality of the parts is top notch. The circled item is the part you will be removing and the oil fill is attached to it. After removing the boost tube, the...

www.duramaxforum.com

great how to here including best way to remove the one way bolts. don't buy the vse extractor it doesn't work.

I installed my kit today super easy with the irwin 1/2" external extractor

What was the issue with the extractor?

 

the one vse recommends is too large to get a grip on the screw head so you would have to drill it out some. they are not in tight at all so an external extract works a lot better and much easier

you can easily drill 3 of the 4. number 4 sits under the turbo port so you can only hit it from an angle

I wanted to not get stuck so I kept trying to get the one under the turbo first.

one other thing... this is critical. the vse bolts are stainless steel and cannot be picked up with a magnet. DO NOT DROP ONE. DO NOT DROP ONE INTO THE ENGINE. DO NOT DROP ONE IN THE TURBO PIPES OR INLET. you will not be able to retrieve with a magnet

 

Thank you, really appreciate the information. Looking fwd to receiving in a couple weeks.

 

be sure to read jd4320's thread I linked above

I keep thinking of things.... I used a magnet to remove the one way bolts once they were completely loose. then held the oem ccv down while I air blasted any metal shavings or dirt away with compressed air. I put rugs like JD did to keep sht out of the tube while I air blasted.

there is one wire bundle attached via a wire holder I used channel locks to remove. when I put the oil fill on I put that loose bundle on the front toward the grill instead of putting the fill in between the bundles. I did that to keep it away from the boost pipe